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whats the best rust........

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 7:05 pm
by haashim
i would like to here your guys views and experience with different kind of rust treatment and prevention products on the market today, im sure we all face the hevy task of keeping our vw's rust free for as long as posable and i have searched the web for different metthods and products to counter rust. If you have had a good or bad experience with a spacific rust product please share as it should help us all

Re: whats the best rust........

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 7:19 pm
by Dawie
1).Best rust treatment is to remove all of it. Rust is like cancer, it never sleeps. Lots and lots of hard work.

2).Best rust prevention: A lockup garage. Keep your car out of the rain/dampness. Leaving an old car outside, especially in the western Cape winter rainfall area, is a definite no-no.

Re: whats the best rust........

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 7:32 pm
by Tony Z
Dawie wrote:1).Best rust treatment is to remove all of it. Rust is like cancer, it never sleeps. Lots and lots of hard work.

2).Best rust prevention: A lockup garage. Keep your car out of the rain/dampness. Leaving an old car outside, especially in the western Cape winter rainfall area, is a definite no-no.
And a good wash and wax
a clean car doesnt rust anywhere nearly as easily as a dirty car and a good wax job keeps the water off the car

Re: whats the best rust........

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 9:09 pm
by retrovan
The only way to stop rust is 1st to Kill it, and then to prevent it from happening again.

Kill rust by wire brush, not sander, or grinder, as these take metal off at the same time.

Wire brush will only remove rust,and expose metal, that is save-able.

Threat the now clean surface with Rust Converter, Rust now dead, then without delay, coat with etch primer, then filler primer, and then top coat, and clear coat.

Please remember that only a clear coat will lock out moisture, and stop the metal rusting again, NOT the other coats.

If treating rust in a long term project,clean with wire brush, do rust converter, then as soon as possible, coat with CLEAR COAT, this will save your surface till you ready to do final paint.

When ready, flat down, then do the full coating process.

Concealed areas must be saturated with liquored Wax, this will stop air and water getting to the already rusted areas, and prevent it from getting worse, the rust will then do the protection. :D

OMO

Herman

Re: whats the best rust........

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 9:41 pm
by sean
First is to get rid of it completely, otherwise it will come back.

Sandblasting works best for surface rust, but if its rot, cut out the section and replace it with a new panel.

With regards to rust converter products, most are treated incorrectly by simply painting them on the rust and then covering it up with paint. This will carry on reacting and cause the paint to lift. Minimum 1 to 2 weeks of applying rust converter everyday and then washing it off will leave your rusted area turned into a shiny silver finish.

Re: whats the best rust........

Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 4:34 am
by Barry
Lots of different opinions on this, and different methods for dealing with it depending on the particular situation......really need to break this down to get the best specific approach. Existing car on the road? Restoration? Surface rust? Pitted surface? Previous treatment? Skill level?

A couple of half-truths in the comments above:
- Any paint that is 'non-porous' will work (this may be a misnomer as just about any material will show some water absorption) - not limited to clearcoat only. Some WILL be better than others. If you are putting it on as an interim measure, you need to be able to get it all off again....
- Sandblasting, like all other methods brings its own issues.
- Wirebrushing can often burnish the rust, not remove it.
- Often metal will be more prone to rust in welded areas due to the effects of heat. Overlapped weld seams should be avoided as they are moisture traps.

Electrolytic rust removal will reverse the oxidation process until you are left with whatever original metal is left over. Molasses; phosphoric, citric, acetic and other acids will work without affecting good metal (to any measurable extent).
Most other methods will affect the integrity of the good metal to some extent.

You also really need to look at the situation in its entirety: Access to the rusted areas, paint system, preparation of the fresh surface, quality of materials, skill level etc etc......