Aircooled VW South Africa

Thank you

i found the problem. The left had carb is just about falling apart and leaking fuel everywhere. I suspect it has also filled the cylinder head with fuel.

Basically what happened is after I got back from Piston Ring Club (about 35kms from my house) I parked the bus. Later on I wanted to move it into the garage. Started fine but then stalled and would not start.

Thankfully this didnt happen on the hi-way or worse still thankfully it didnt start and catch a light!

I am now considering importing some Webber 34 ICT's but need to find out more about them first. Any pointers on whether they are a good option?

definitely not a bad option for a stock engine or a slightly modified engine. I prefer the IDF setup, but thats me, some like retrovan prefer the ICTs.

sean wrote:

brucet wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2017 1:24 pm Met some of the aircooled guys for a drive to piston ring club. Bus ran beautifully but will not start now??? Either there is no fuel or no spark! Any ideas?

You must test via process of elimination. Could be many things.

Remove fuel hose from carb and crank the motor to check if fuel comes out. If it does, its not fuel.
Remove a plug lead, stick your finger into it and crank the motor. If you shock, its got spark. Wait, rather stick a screw driver in and hold it close to an earth. If there is no spark, check points, condenser, power to coil etc.

Sean reading this I almost laughed my ass off. Imagine somebody actually sticking their finger in there and getting someone to crank the motor I hope there is no spark.

Imagine replacing the coil and getting spark oh damn!


72 - Freddie Booysen
72 Bay - unnamed WIP
72 D/C - Blue abomination!
74 Beetle - BEE

The ICT carbs will be the more affordable option, especially considering they bolt straight onto the original type 4 manifolds, you can also make brackets to use your original linkage and a ring spacer around the air cleaner towers to use your existing air filter setup. I would advise this as those "k&n" style filters just don't cope in the back there especially with no fresh air directed to them. You will see after a 1000km long gravel road those things will be completely blocked while and original one will have no problems. The Empi linkage kits are not fantastic either, I probably only got just over 100 000km before it was completely wasted with worn bushes and actually falling apart. The original quality is much better.

If you go with the IDF's; you will have to purchase the manifolds as well. You will not really feel more power from a standard motor. I have all 3 varieties and it's only the power delivery that varies, they don't make the busses faster. Remember this is a comparison to properly set up original Solex dual carb setups, not a dodgy busted unbalanced system.

OK my carbs have been sorted out. Jason from German Steel Toys actually sent his mechanics to my house to remove them, take them away, and rebuild them.

If it's fixed in time we are hopefully going to Vaalplasie on Saturday for their famous pizza if anyone would like to join. Leaving Randpark Ridge at around 11am on Saturday.

Had a great day at Vaalplasie today. Bus was running a bit rough and battled to get up to speed. On the way back we broke down just after Gordon Avenue and managed to freewheel all the way to the garage at the beyers Naude off ramp.

Jason once again came to our rescue and sorted the bus out. Turned out to be a faulty condensor!

Also found that our front torsion bar has been put back on upside down. I will sort this out tomorrow.

Tx for a lekker day out @ Vaalplasie

brucet wrote: ↑Mon Jul 17, 2017 6:43 am ..............I am now considering importing some Webber 34 ICT's but need to find out more about them first. Any pointers on whether they are a good option?

Tony Z wrote: ↑Mon Jul 17, 2017 7:41 am ... some like retrovan prefer the ICTs.

What I have found, is that the 34 ICT's are close to the original with less BS fitted.

The VW distributor functions better with the ICT setup and does not give you dead spots like some carbs but must have the correct jets fitted.

Should you get them from Eurocarb, you tell them all the details and altitude you running mainly at, and they will jet them free of charge.

I find they give a bit more power, and good fuel economy, and easy to balance, (if you know how)

Good luck with project.

Herman

Thank you


Yesterday I had the windows tinted and today I decided to turn the anti roll bar to the correct way around. Given about 20cms extra clearance and looks much better also.

Before, not a great pic but you can see how low the anti roll bar is.




After



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Tinted windows




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What is everyone opinion on electronic ignition mods?

From what I understand this will get rid of the points and condenser.

brucet wrote: ↑Mon Jul 24, 2017 7:49 am What is everyone opinion on electronic ignition mods?

From what I understand this will get rid of the points and condenser.

There is only one variety and that's an original VW Bosch unit. It was used in the first 2 years when the T3's had aircooled motors. It must be from a 2l motor to ensure the advance curve is correct for the motor. These are quite difficult to get hold of. Don't waste time and money on pirate electronic ignitions, you will be better off with points and condenser.

I like to use the 1900 even 2,1 kombi dizzy, module and electronic coil . To me it feels more smooth when driving but that could be all in the mind. This is on beetle engine tho not sure if it would be fine on type 4