Aircooled VW South Africa

Hey gang,
After some serious frustration I've finally restored to ask you guys for advice..

I know this has been covered before, and for the life of me I'm stumped.

After two kak off the shelf master cylinders that started leaking out the back of the master while still in the bleeding process.. I purchased a decent golf m.c from norbrake fitted and the process has gone much better, however when left over night the one rear disk caliper is locked up so tight you cannot budge the disk.
Stripped the caliper off, rotated the piston into origin, placed back and tested. Left over night and again, locked up in the morning...

Do I have air or something stuck somewhere?

The bleed screws are at the top of the calipers, the m.c is at a higher position as I've set my jack stands in this fashion so the car leans down to the back as advised in other posts..
The pin going into the m.c is set at 2mm gapping before contact.
Bleeding process is as normal, passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front and finally driver front..

Spitting snakes! If anyone can assist I'd be in an ever debt to you.

You are right, this is normally due to the peddle shaft being too long, but as you said you have tested the play, this should not be the problem.

Think you should systematically try to find the issue,

So when the disk is locked up, get someone too look at the brake fluid level , or mark it on the reservoir, and push the locked pistons back with a screw driver,

If the level goes up, the fault is not the M/C

Then look at your flexible pipe, on that wheel, if it has a kink, or blockage, best to remove it, bleed the brakes with pipe off, and clear the line, then replace old flexible pipe with new.

Good luck

Herman

I had an issue on our hyundai where the one brake calliper would ‘lock up’ (the wheel still turns but with a lot of effort).

Turns out the 2 guide pins of the calliper was rusted. Sorted that out and used a little copper slip. No problem since.

I have since been told that copper slip is not a wise choice and got some ‘grease’ that is supposedly specifically for use on the callipers.


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Does the rear caliper become locked-up over night, or does it stay that way after depressing the brake pedal?

Hey volks,
Thanks for the responses thus far...
Locks up over night.
Running free while testing the hub, push the pedal, locks, release pedal, runs free, left over night and locked up properly! Where you literally cannot budge that hub, driver rear caliper.

Thanks again for the info and interest guys.

Hey retro,
I've come right, and found indeed that the drag and eventual lockup came from a two issues..

1.Striped the complete rear driver side caliper, found a very sticky black residue on the top caliper pin, this could push in easily enough but was a bit tough coming back out.. Sorted that.

2. I filled the MC too much and ultimately this couldn't draw back enough when realising the pedal, just strange that it would lock up much later on???

None the less. Since the redo.. Been perfect!

Thanks everyone.