Broken Side Shaft

[\/\/olfsburg\/\/olf]

Hey all I got an emergency. Last night on my way home, something broke in my car. Basically it was stop and go traffic, and all of a sudden, something broke, and then there was a grinding noise every time I let the clutch out. I am pretty sure its one of the side shafts. As the gear changes still feel the same.

So for the chance to win one million kudos and a trip to your home after work answer this question:

can I take spares of the drive train from a 1200 /1300 SP and stick it on to my 74 1600 TP?

[ZeroAxe]

The drive shafts are ok, dont stress. If you can break drive shafts, I want the motor that is in your car!!!!!!!!


The splines on the drum stripped off. I cant seem to remember which side it was on my Beetle back when I was still in SA. But take the two rear wheel caps off and have a bystander check the shaft on both sides shile you release the clutch while in gear. You will see that shaft turn but the car wont move. If the bystander doesnt see this, get another one to help!!!!

Let us know the scoop.....

[\/\/olfsburg\/\/olf]

Sweet man. You win first prize, the 1 million kudos are in the mail...

[Surge]

The only reason why the splines in the drum could be worn off is because of dim wits who don't tighten the nuts properly.

I've seen many beetles with oil leaking out the half-shaft tubes. I even bought a beetle and towed it home and found out later that the drums were so lose I could wobble them by hand.
People drive them like that!

I tighten them with a 1.5 meter long extension on a 36 mm Gedore spanner.
I hold the drum with a home made A frame tool (two pieces of flatbar bolted at one end with the other ends bolted into two holes on the drum).
Those nuts are meant to be tightened.

[Ryss]

I would suspect that the lack of motive power is more likely caused by a clutch failure.

It is not unheard of for the centre portion of clutch that sits on spigot shaft, to break loose from the result of the clutch. The clutch itself still feels fine.

[\/\/olfsburg\/\/olf]

The only reason why the splines in the drum could be worn off is because of dim wits who don't tighten the nuts properly.

I've seen many beetles with oil leaking out the half-shaft tubes. I even bought a beetle and towed it home and found out later that the drums were so lose I could wobble them by hand.
People drive them like that!

I tighten them with a 1.5 meter long extension on a 36 mm Gedore spanner.
I hold the drum with a home made A frame tool (two pieces of flatbar bolted at one end with the other ends bolted into two holes on the drum).
Those nuts are meant to be tightened.

It was the drum splines that had worn off.

I don't consider myself a dim wit. Maybe I am wrong? We used a 3/4 inch power bar to do it. I admit it doesn't seem as impressive as your a-frame thing-a-ma-jig but I am pretty certain it was tight as we could make it. Maybe next time I should call in the World Strong Man Champion to make sure?

[hitlers revenge]

If I'm correct the torque must be 256 Nm, which is TIGHT. I have always tightened mine with the 36 socket mentioned and a 2 metre cheater bar. To hold the wheel / axle still while tightening, the handbrake is enough. Or maybe put a brick at the wheel.

[\/\/olfsburg\/\/olf]

sweet man thanks. Thats actually very useful

[Tony Z]

my hubs have been drilled so that once you have torqued the castle nut down, you can insert a split pin thru the nut and shaft thus preventing it from turning loose.
Yes, I have also used a 1.5m long pipe on a 3/4" power bar

[\/\/olfsburg\/\/olf]

yeah, my hubs are also drilled.

is it possible that we over tightened them?

[hitlers revenge]

You must of used South Africas strongest man while on a Jungle Oats diet if you over tightened them. Doing it with the 36 socket and cheater bar gets them pretty tight. So to answer your question - I think not. (note the free ad)

[eben]

As far as i know most hubs are drilled...
I didn't tighten my castleated nut enough and put the pin in and the same happened me.... thought i screwed up the diff....

[hitlers revenge]

Just thinking about all this. You have to tighten the nut until you can just see the complete hole. Then it should be at the correct tightness. When you do see the COMPLETE hole you should be at the correct torque. Hope you understand this asd I seem to have repeated myself.

[Surge]

I don't consider myself a dim wit. Maybe I am wrong?

I wasn't referring to you - just all the other so called mechanics who make those nuts finger tight.
It's crazy - there are garages who tighten the wheel nuts until it eats into the rims but then they don't tighten a fine pitch 36 mm nut which is designed to be really tightened.

Another method I used before I made the tool for holding the hub was to leave the rim on and then use a 36mm Gedore spanner and a chunk of wool and shock torque it. Just need to get someone to put their foot on the spanner to keep it on and make sure the car isn't in gear because the shock won't do the gearbox much good.

I'm not sure what the correct torque should be but for reference purposes the gland nut on the flywheel is also a fine pitched 36mm and the minimum torque for it is 344 Nm (254 ft-lbs).
Now consider that, that is for a tapered shaft and not a straight shaft like the axle.

[hitlers revenge]

Rear wheel axle nut on a type 1 and a type 3 must be torqued to 30Mkgs or 220 ft.lbs
Rear wheel nut for a type 2 must be torqued to 35 Mkgs or 253 ft.lbs