Aircooled VW South Africa

Well, here is my baby of the past 10 years. In 1999 I did a "makeover" on him. (I do not believe that cars are femine, specialy not my double cab...lol). Basicly sanded, bit of rust treatment and a paint job. Just a basic make look nice. I had a painting and renovating company back then, and the staff used it to transport paint and scafolding..... Big mistake. Within a few months he looked worse than before. Not their's, so they did not care.
Well, the double cab has now been in retirement for almost 3 years. The engine finaly died. Some rip off back yard mechanic, who claimed to suply recons for some of the major VW shops, sold me a recon. Did not last.
So begining of December 2007, me and the other half decided that we would like to go to Mozambique in December 2008. Friends of us goes there yearly and adviced that the sand is so thick, that you can only do it with a 4x4, or if you know what you are doing, maybe a 2x4 with diflocks.
Now I have not driven sand with the double cab ...yet, but I have done some pretty rough places. So I said to myself (and the other half)....."myself, the combi can do it!"
I dont know if I am naife, maybe you guys will know better than me, but I think the combi can do it. Please let me know what you think.
Regardless, we have also decided that it is time to redo the double cab.
I would like to start with the engine, then some bigger takkies on the back (maybe 4x4 takkies). At the moment there are 195 R 14C's on. The front will stay the same. As it is the front wheels are polishing the chasis when I turn tight. So I can't go any bigger there. I don't mind cutting at the back wheel arches (and I just know someone is going to cruisify me for this statement).
1.The first thing I want to know is about engine size.
I have a 1600 twin port in there.
a. Can I make it bigger from the same casing.
b. Should I make it bigger? and to what size (1800, 2000)
c. How much more power will I gain without having petrol consumption equal to a spacerocket if i go bigger?
d. Is there ways to create more power without modifying it to racing standards?

2.What size rims and wheels can I put on the back without stuffing up the gearbox?

3.Will it make any diference putting on a freeflow exhaust with branches? Can it be done?

Here are some photo's of the current sad state he is in.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj23 ... C_0003.jpg

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj23 ... C_0002.jpg

For those who want to know.... the roof rack is an early model Landrover roofrack. Fits like a glove....

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj23 ... C_0001.jpg

I'd say keep it stock, the less modifications, the less potential problems. It is a know fact that a 1100 buggy with 'Marie biscuit' wheels can go further on sand than a powerful one with wide wheels, I suppose the same will apply to your Bus.

Hey welcome to the site.

Almost anything can be done to the engine, all depending on your budget. I have my project listed in the projects section - suicyde engine... thats 2332cc with a T1 engine case.

I think you need to make a decision as to what engine you want. Probably best for your application will be a T4 conversion with maybe a bit more displacement, but that said, a T1 engine with a longer stroke and bigger pistons, in the 2litre range will prob also work quite well, but then it isnt stock anymore and you cant rely on just anyone to fix it...

The gearbox is more governed by power and driving style (abuse dished out), tyre sizes dont really make much difference, not for slow offroading anyway.

A freeflow exhaust make a difference but not too much in the low rpm area - depending on your engine choice again....


Cant see pics BTW

Thanx Tony
So lets say I go from my std 1600 to a std 2000.....how much difference will it make for me in power and also how much heavier on petrol?

Pine
Considering we will have a load (tents....) on the back, don't you think bigger wheels will keep me out of the sand and on top of the sand better?

a propely tuned engine will run failry light on fuel.
remember, it takes the same amount of fuel to make 20kW in either engine, you will only use more fuel when you use more power. So 80km/h on the highway shouldnt use any more fuel, but making the top of the hill at 120 instead of 90 does....

As Tony Said What is the buget you want to spend

A Nice 1776cc motor and a nice torqy cam would work fairly nice although not a robot racer and reliable 2
The other Question is also do you want to keep it as stock as possible (AIRCOOLED) or were you thinking of other motors
Those early DC are getting scarse now and keeping it closer to original is also somethingh to think of


I have fitted a Syncro lockable diff in My DC but they wont fit straight in your Box Am sure it is also possible to do something like that to your box anly draw back it is Expensive but worth while

Have not used mine to an off roud extend but will do in future also planning some trips to Mozambique in the future bussy with the 2.1 motor at the moment

XXXTREME
Here is a link to a sight from a guy in Australia, they modify kombi's there to run in the dessert. Might have some info that can help you....
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/1811/

You know, on second thought, installing a good winch securely at the front of the Bus should get you out of some tricky situations relatively easy, and at a fraction of the cost of a new engine, suspension, wheels etc upgrade.

Just a thought - use it/don't use it

Hey T2 offroad can you tell me about your locker diff in the Dual cab? I have the same truck and have been curious about such a conversion. Yours is a two wheel drive isnt it?
WEhats involved in fitting the locker?
Thanks in advance
sawpit

Hi Saw

If you are refering to the white dc in my post

I searched hi and lo at all the bus scrap yards for the Gearbox housing and 4 spider gear lockable diff that is used in the Syncro bus

Then I stripped the box and transferred the crown wheel to the new diff and assembled the box again
and fitted the vacuum hoses for engaging the diff and also the special vacuum selector switch on the dash
Most said it cant be done well I it done
The bus stood for 2yrs but now I will get in to it and also fit some of the other Syncro suspension parts to raise the suspension and fit the 6 or 7 ply tyres for the bush

Bugger wrote:Hi Saw

If you are refering to the white dc in my post

I searched hi and lo at all the bus scrap yards for the Gearbox housing and 4 spider gear lockable diff that is used in the Syncro bus

Then I stripped the box and transferred the crown wheel to the new diff and assembled the box again
and fitted the vacuum hoses for engaging the diff and also the special vacuum selector switch on the dash
Most said it cant be done well I it done
The bus stood for 2yrs but now I will get in to it and also fit some of the other Syncro suspension parts to raise the suspension and fit the 6 or 7 ply tyres for the bush

Get 8 ply rating tyres. the one scrapyard here in Newcastle has a syncro that they are stripping, if you are looking for spares, but i do not know how musch is left of its spares

Hi

In my young days we fitted an extra handbrake lever to a buggy (one for each wheel )--which is easy with the two handbrake cables. So when you get stuck you pull the handbrake on the spinning wheel slightly and the pulling power gets transfered to the the wheel which is normaly in a better position to pull you out-----works very well--. Its not a lock diff but will help you out of trouble many times.

Having grown up with a split bus in Namibia in a very sandy area where only 6 cylinders and V8 power ruled Ihave seen that a VW can go almost everywhere,depending on the nut holding the steering wheel(two hande type). So a bit of sand practice in the meantime will do a lot off good. A wince and sand boards will help.
Remember your friends will love showing of their 4x4s so they will be so glad to help you out .

cheers
Baron