OK boys and girls, let's get technical...
I want to convert my bug to IRS...
NB: My bug is a LHD ball-joint chassis...
I have found: 1 x RHD ball-joint IRS chassis...with "CV joint gearbox"...
1. How much work is involved in converting the RHD chassis to LHD?
I have been told that it is a straightforward pedal swap, etc.? T/F?
2. What exactly is a "CV joint gearbox"? Stock gearbox, or not?
Cheers, N.
IRS LHD/RHD woes...
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Merlin
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IRS LHD/RHD woes...
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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Tony Z
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CV Joint gearbox would be whats called the IRS greabox. i.e. 2 CV joints on each drive shaft
The rest of your questions, I cant answer
The rest of your questions, I cant answer
ANGRRR
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=14775
1302S
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=33521
Panel Van
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopic.php?p=288723
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=14775
1302S
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=33521
Panel Van
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopic.php?p=288723
vader wrote: The Force is strong with you young Sith Lord Z!
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Merlin
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Kewl; thanks Tony.
It comes with the gearbox, so that helps me a lot then.
Cheers, N.
It comes with the gearbox, so that helps me a lot then.
Cheers, N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
-
Tony Z
- Donor
- Posts: 15008
- Joined: Wed Sep 14, 2005 8:33 am
- What model do you have?: 2.3L 69; 1302; P/Van
- Location: Klipheuwel (near Durbanville), Cape Town or working at sea
- Has thanked: 192 times
- Been thanked: 488 times
I thought I had pictures to show you... but I was wrong.
ANGRRR
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=14775
1302S
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=33521
Panel Van
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopic.php?p=288723
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=14775
1302S
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=33521
Panel Van
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopic.php?p=288723
vader wrote: The Force is strong with you young Sith Lord Z!
-
Merlin
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No worries.
I've organized to buy the bug, a mate to buy the remainders for himself for a build-up, and another friend of mine to do the conversion.
The start of a mass makeover for my bug...from scratch.
Long-term...
The conversion is fairly simple...I'll be using my existing LHD pedal assembly, and steering box, and the rest is fairly straightforward.
No cutting, etc. required.
My existing ball-joint lowered suspension will go to my mate, which he'll convert to RHD, and plonk the IRS-originating body on to my existing chassis.
*whew!*
The IRS gearbox will go in for a recon, while I get the chassis sandblasted and sprayed/chromed, or whatever I decided to go with.
The body will be put back for driveability for a few more months until phase 2.
N.
I've organized to buy the bug, a mate to buy the remainders for himself for a build-up, and another friend of mine to do the conversion.
The start of a mass makeover for my bug...from scratch.
Long-term...The conversion is fairly simple...I'll be using my existing LHD pedal assembly, and steering box, and the rest is fairly straightforward.
No cutting, etc. required.
My existing ball-joint lowered suspension will go to my mate, which he'll convert to RHD, and plonk the IRS-originating body on to my existing chassis.
*whew!*
The IRS gearbox will go in for a recon, while I get the chassis sandblasted and sprayed/chromed, or whatever I decided to go with.
The body will be put back for driveability for a few more months until phase 2.
N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
-
IMPI
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Hi Merlin
some cutting is still involved though.
The master cylinder mounts must be cut out and drilled The brake pipe must also be swapped side for side this will require a tab to be welded to the left rear framehorn
finally the pedal assembly must also be bolted to the floor as well as to the tunnel
A blanking plate must be fitted to the holes you vacated on the right hand side ( master and pedal assembly
you must also remove the bracket for the acc pedal
replace the shift bushing in the tunnel and also check if the clutch guide tube is not broken loose inside the tunnel (3 places)
You should be set then
Armand
some cutting is still involved though.
The master cylinder mounts must be cut out and drilled The brake pipe must also be swapped side for side this will require a tab to be welded to the left rear framehorn
finally the pedal assembly must also be bolted to the floor as well as to the tunnel
A blanking plate must be fitted to the holes you vacated on the right hand side ( master and pedal assembly
you must also remove the bracket for the acc pedal
replace the shift bushing in the tunnel and also check if the clutch guide tube is not broken loose inside the tunnel (3 places)
You should be set then
Armand
Who cares how it's done in California?
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Merlin
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Wow!
Thanks for all the info Armand.
I'll pass this on to my mate.
If he is not aware of this/not keen on doing this job anymore - would you be keen?
Cheers, N.
Thanks for all the info Armand.
I'll pass this on to my mate.
If he is not aware of this/not keen on doing this job anymore - would you be keen?
Cheers, N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
-
fig
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Merlin
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I think I may have let some confusion in here...
I want to KEEP my LHD.
We're converting the chassis FROM RHD TO LHD.
I'll be using my existing lefty pedal assembly and steering box, oh, and the lowered lefty beam too...until my quote on Air Ride kits come through.
The hole in the dash for the music deck will be closed, as I don't want sound in there - yes, really - and the clock will stay as-is...the bug is being completely redone, including new wiring throughout.
What exactly is a Pitman Arm?
My donor IRS bug is complete minus an engine, so most parts needed are readily available.
Cheers, and thanks, N.
I want to KEEP my LHD.
We're converting the chassis FROM RHD TO LHD.
I'll be using my existing lefty pedal assembly and steering box, oh, and the lowered lefty beam too...until my quote on Air Ride kits come through.
The hole in the dash for the music deck will be closed, as I don't want sound in there - yes, really - and the clock will stay as-is...the bug is being completely redone, including new wiring throughout.
What exactly is a Pitman Arm?
My donor IRS bug is complete minus an engine, so most parts needed are readily available.
Cheers, and thanks, N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
-
Merlin
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...so I've been reading up on this idea all day.
It seems to be a more accepted idea that the original s/a chassis be converted to IRS.
Would you concur?
It makes sense to me...the heater elements retain their place, less overall hacking, etc. and in my case, somewhat less hassle with regards to L/RHD conversions...
1. If I did a conversion instead of modifying the IRS chassis completely, would I achieve the same results?
2. Would it be easier/cheaper?
3. Would the remainder of the IRS chassis (s/a conversion option) be useable for the rebuilding of another bug with it's ball-joint front-end?
Have any of you done anything like this yourselves?
...btw, got pics and info of the donor, and it looks like it's a Go on the buy.
Thanks, N.
It seems to be a more accepted idea that the original s/a chassis be converted to IRS.
Would you concur?
It makes sense to me...the heater elements retain their place, less overall hacking, etc. and in my case, somewhat less hassle with regards to L/RHD conversions...
1. If I did a conversion instead of modifying the IRS chassis completely, would I achieve the same results?
2. Would it be easier/cheaper?
3. Would the remainder of the IRS chassis (s/a conversion option) be useable for the rebuilding of another bug with it's ball-joint front-end?
Have any of you done anything like this yourselves?
...btw, got pics and info of the donor, and it looks like it's a Go on the buy.
Thanks, N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
-
IMPI
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Irs on your pan is doable but quite involved
You would need IRS brackets. They are available from the us and beats cutting them from a donor anytime bit difficult with the body in place but not impossible Type 3 automatic cars also had these brackets and is more easy to remove intact from a donor I have done this three times already but always on pans outside the car. If you cut them from a bug chassis it would effectively reduce that pan to junk
Regards Armand
You would need IRS brackets. They are available from the us and beats cutting them from a donor anytime bit difficult with the body in place but not impossible Type 3 automatic cars also had these brackets and is more easy to remove intact from a donor I have done this three times already but always on pans outside the car. If you cut them from a bug chassis it would effectively reduce that pan to junk
Regards Armand
Who cares how it's done in California?
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Merlin
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Hey guys,
IMPI...
I have seen those brackets, and will probably buy them new online.
...so if I understand this: the IRS donor will have it's IRS components stripped, and meshed onto my existing chassis - with new brackets?
This will leave a scrap pan, hence their is no IRS replacement for it, which I can give to my mate for the purpose of using the ball-joint front-end?
My existing chassis will be the modified one, which is a lot easier to do?
Didi...
If you can at all manage to scan and send that article to me, I will be greatly indebted to you.
...otherwise, I'll organize to meet you some time?
Thanks for all your help everyone.
Cheers, N.
IMPI...
I have seen those brackets, and will probably buy them new online.
...so if I understand this: the IRS donor will have it's IRS components stripped, and meshed onto my existing chassis - with new brackets?
This will leave a scrap pan, hence their is no IRS replacement for it, which I can give to my mate for the purpose of using the ball-joint front-end?
My existing chassis will be the modified one, which is a lot easier to do?
Didi...
If you can at all manage to scan and send that article to me, I will be greatly indebted to you.
...otherwise, I'll organize to meet you some time?
Thanks for all your help everyone.
Cheers, N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.