Gear Oil leaking out

Bugboy · Post by **Bugboy** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 11:33 am

Hey guys I have seen sum gear oil leaking out the centre of my driver side rear wheel. Upon inspection it seems to leaking out where the locknut is. Is this normal? Or do I have to replace a seal?

Post by **calooker** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 11:37 am

Seal replacement time and while you are there do the bearing too, make sure it is G/box oil and not brake fluid out of the slave cylinder. You need to stop whatever is leaking cause if it gets onto your shoes, will mean that you need to replace them as well.

Post by **Tony Z** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 11:40 am

your gearbox oil also runs down the drive shaft towards the wheel bearing. The bearing has a cover with 4 bolts over it - the gasket is leaking.

This is a good time to change the gearbox oil also.
Get a seal kit for the rear bearing....
drain the gearbox oil, remove the drum
remove the bearing cover. Clean up everything 100%, all mating surfaces to be completely clean.
Put on new gasket and re-assemble.

you can use a gasket sealer, but I use oil. Cover the paper gasket in oil (drop it into a cup of oil). This helps sealing slightly but also makes it a lot easier to remove the gasket next time round.

Good luck

Post by **fig** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 12:17 pm

If you're unsure whether the leak is brake fluid or gear oil, use your nose. Gear oil STINKS.

Bugboy · Post by **Bugboy** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 2:45 pm

Ya Fig its definitely gear oil. Anyways had the brake fluid in the drum experience already and have replace the wheel cylinders as well as the brake lines,did the handbrake cable too well i was down there. Qu? Will the seal kit come with the bearings or is that a seperate item?Also how do I top up the gear oil without having a pump,will some pipe and a funnel work? And what is the grade for the gear oil so i get the correct one.

Post by **fig** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 2:50 pm

Seal kit and bearings are separate.

I use the little 500ml bottles to fill the trans; they have a nozzle extension that makes it quite easy. Jack up the RHS of the car and remove the right rear wheel for access. I tried the hose and funnel trick, but it gets messy because of the amount of oil still in the pipe when you're done.

The recommended oil is 80W90. The critical thing is to use ONLY GL4 oil, NEVER GL5. GL5 is made for modern transmissions, and will destroy brass parts like syncro rings.

Bugboy · Post by **Bugboy** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:04 pm

Thanks fig,oh how much would I need though?
2 litres?

Post by **calooker** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:18 pm

To top up the oil there is a filler plug on the left side of the tranny that needs a 17mm allen key (I think) to remove, undo that first before you drain the oil. They are at best hard to remove, happened to me once, removed the drain plug and let all the old oil out then did it up again, only to find that the filler plug would not come out, I had to apply some heat to remove it and after a burnt side shaft boot and some swearing a fancy language and heavy mallet it came out.
The bearing is separate item the seals come as a kit, if you can get the sealed bearing will outlast the normal ball bearings, no worries if the oil runs low in the tranny, if you can afford synthetic tranny oil, get it makes a hell of a diff. smoother shifting, and less noise, I have been using it in all my rides for over 5 years, no problem.

Bugboy · Post by **Bugboy** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:30 pm

Okay thanks.

Post by **fig** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 4:12 pm

calooker wrote:To top up the oil there is a filler plug on the left side of the tranny that needs a 17mm allen key.

Rui's correct, it's the left hand side, not the right.

It is a 17mm allen key. After breaking several home-made tools on stuck plugs, I went and bought a 17mm allen head socket, which has easily defeated all drain plugs since.

Post by **IMPI** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 7:57 pm

That seal usually leaks if the nut is not tight enough.
300 foot pound tight that is any less makes it leak as well as starts to damage the splines in the drum
A half inch drive socket doesnt cut it
Armand

hitlers revenge · Post by **hitlers revenge** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 10:08 pm

Bugboy, To remove your gearbox filler plug get your self a 10M x 40mm bolt and 3 matching nuts. Put all three nuts on the same bolts and tighten them all up TIGHT. This can now be inserted into the gearbox plug while you use your 17mm spanner to undo the plug. Other than that go to any steel shop and ask for a piece of 17mm hexagonal bar. You need about a 40mm length. They normally have a scrap tin where you can find off-cuts.

Your "rear wheel bearing kit" can be purchased at "Bearing Man". I think I paid about R90-00 2 months ago. There kit includes everything you need. (bearing, seal,gasket and if i recall correctly even the wheel bearing grease)

hitlers revenge · Post by **hitlers revenge** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 10:15 pm

Bug boy

I have a 36mm socket on a 700mm bar which you can buy from any tool shop. On to this I place a 1.5 metre cheater bar and then tighten the rear axle nut. I make sure when the bar is horozontal to the ground that I (85kgs) can stand on the bar without it turning. By using this method I have never had any problems with a leaking rear seal.

Bugboy · Post by **Bugboy** » Wed Mar 07, 2007 9:03 am

Okay I have the 36mm socket welded on a piece of 50mm angle iron about 500mm in length and used a thicker pipe to put over that for leverage. Could be it wasnt enough leverage because the pipe wasn't that long. But now that I think about it its high the bearings get changed and gear oil topped up.

Tom Bishop · Post by **Tom Bishop** » Wed Mar 07, 2007 10:02 am

If it gearbox oil, and its leaking on the inside of the drum then the overflow hole, below the axle, is blocked. If this hole is open, you need one serious seal fail before oil gets to the brakes. Make sure when you fit the new kit that this little hole remains open, from the bearing cap to the backing plate. Dont cover it with grease.

Cheers