Building the perfect Type 1 motor

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dubster
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by dubster »

Haha try forgeting to put the rotor in completly...richard you on the right track watch those vids and read them books and then come tell me a thing or two i will gladly listen and learn from what you have to say...
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by Junior »

Thanks for all the advice from every one that has contributed to this post :drunks: :hangloose:
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Tony Z
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by Tony Z »

dubster wrote:Tony what is the specs on vaders motor?is it just a stock 1914cc?will a motor like that fit his application?
What exactly is a stock 1914? LOL... dont worry, taking the piss out of you

I think it has a 110 cam and stock rockers.
He has single port heads with huge valves and plenty head work, along with a centre mount twin throat downdraft (DCNF or something).

That engine is super fun but there is more to be had. It currently has 74hp. Only been in it once and have not driven it, so cant comment on torque
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dubster
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by dubster »

Haha i was thinking it sounds stupid when i posted it but how else would one put it...from vaders post sounds like a fun motor...
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''BLOOD AND TEARS WILL FLOW FOR ACVW'S,FOR LIFE''
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by Junior »

I got to drive my beetle yesterday :D (I loved it must be the most fun Iv had in a while and dont worry it has on a very long straight road just out side of town :hangloose: ) and it has helped me a lot I noticed that the is some power in 1st ,2nd and even 3rd but hardly any in 4th. I all so noticed very quickly that I need a new strearing box because my 1 has alot of play even when its not moving, so where comes what I want :D okay so I want to have lots of power between 2500rpm and 4000rpm or even just 3500rpm the other thing I noticed is that at 3500rpm you are going about 120km/h and I want my max speed that is with out damaging my motor to be 160km/h so that I can over take people when I need to and so I can do some robot racing when I'm board now that I know what I want I'm going to go and Find out how to get what I want :D (The books and dvd and you guys) and by the time the new motor goes in I want to have a new or recon stearing box and disc brakes at the front.

Plan so far
So my plan is 1914 cylinders and pistons (balanced)
Counter weight, stock stroke crank (Balanced)
Im sticking to the dual port heads and 36mm IDF carbs but I'm going to go with bigger valves so that I can up grade my carbs at a later stage if needed.
Then I'm going with the fully flowed case from Dave R
I'm also going with 1;25;1 rockers
Cam I need to do more research
Valves I'm want to run un leaded petrol and I know you can run it on a standard motor so I'm going to do more research on that to
The rest is still in my head just waiting to come out :puterwork:
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Ron&Gill
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by Ron&Gill »

Your new or refurbished heads will be fine for unleaded.

Do add a Engle 110 cam or equivelent. They make all the difference.
1964 T34 - The Razor: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=10290
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by JamesD »

Like i just told my brothers, when they working and can afford unleaded 95 octane then they must run unleaded 95 octane, till then they must run unleaded 93.

The cam - engel 120 will give you a big power kick high up in the rev range and limited power lower, might not want to idle brilliantly - probably not for daily driving with a smaller engine. Engel 110, my power kick comes in at 2200 or 2400, and thats fine for me, can use that as a daily in my mind. Engel 100, more torque low down, alot more drivable in stop start, not as much oomph higher up in the rev range as the 110.

your steering box can be adjusted to get rid of some/all of the free play, just cant remember how, did mine 6 years ago.
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by Edmond »

Dave R can counterweight and 8 dowel your std crank I think its about R1000 to do it, make sure you get the whole rotating assembly balanced(crank,flywheel,pulley etc)

Drop Dave R a email to see if he has any cases in stock because he uses them for his own engine buildups

Cam wise I went with a W100 grind because the car is a daily driver travelling about 400km a week and because I only have a 1600

To adjust the steering box you loosen the screw on the top of it and turn it in till it just touches the roller in the steering box then tighten its lock nut, it explains it in more detail in the books I sent you
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by Tony Z »

Engle 120 is too big for those carbs.
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by Junior »

Ya I think Im going to go with the 110 or maybe the 100 but not the 120
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dubster
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by dubster »

Sounds good richard
1974 1300tp type 1

kart kraft 1717cc buggy

''BLOOD AND TEARS WILL FLOW FOR ACVW'S,FOR LIFE''
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by Junior »

I am thinking of a name for my bug can any one help I like Boggo :D
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by Junior »

What is Dave Rowley's E-mail adress ? :zhelp:
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by Ron&Gill »

1964 T34 - The Razor: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=10290
1956 T2 1b - Gill's bus: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=10948
1967 T316 - viewtopic.php?f=23&t=10931 & viewtopic.php?f=23&t=15977
2000 beach buggy - viewtopic.php?f=23&t=10915
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Re: Building the perfect Type 1 motor

Post by Junior »

Just finished watching episode 1 of bug me videos :mrgreen: Its going to be a long night :D :D :D
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