I've just been browsing CB Performance's site...
I'm buying a ram-air shroud from them tomorrow...
How/where do you mount a coil?
*scratches head*
It's not something I've ever thought of before...how do you mount a coil onto a shroud? Is there something else for it that I need to add to my order?
Thanks, N.
Coil mounts?
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Merlin
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Coil mounts?
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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Merlin
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Will see what I can do...
Do I need to buy a mount for it too, or can I get something decent locally?
The firewall is having it's soundproofing and cover removed, as the 'look' of the engine bay involves customizing the metal in there.
With the engine going in there soundproofing on the firewall ain't gonna do much. I may relocate new sound-deadening kit into the car in the dogbox, etc.
...which is also why all sound in the car is being removed. Why listen to tunes when you can hear the note.
N.
Do I need to buy a mount for it too, or can I get something decent locally?
The firewall is having it's soundproofing and cover removed, as the 'look' of the engine bay involves customizing the metal in there.
With the engine going in there soundproofing on the firewall ain't gonna do much. I may relocate new sound-deadening kit into the car in the dogbox, etc.
...which is also why all sound in the car is being removed. Why listen to tunes when you can hear the note.
N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
-
Pine
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All cylindrical-shaped coils come with a wraparound fitting that clamps it together with a screw. It also has two mounting points for the screws that will fit into the threaded holes in the fan shroud. Off-road racers use two of these fittings for a more secure fitting, it precents the coil from 'pivoting' on its center.
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Merlin
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Aaah, OK. Thought they came without...
Will try find two matching mounts at the hardware.
Afaik, the ram-air shroud has no pre-drilled holes.
N.
Will try find two matching mounts at the hardware.
Afaik, the ram-air shroud has no pre-drilled holes.
N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
-
IMPI
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Ram flow
Try ramming something up somewhere
Yust one more part that gets sold for looks and nothing else. Look inside a beetle fan housing and learn.
Those vanes on the coil side of a std housing are not there for fun they need to channel air from the "wrong" side of the fan to cool no 3 and 4 cylinder The fan turns clockwise tending to favour cylinders 1 and 2 and this is why the factory used such a huge box with 9 different little channels to feed 3 and four. Just think if VW could have gotten away with a cheap "ram flow" they would have done so!!!!!!!!!
Armand
PS the centermount is even worse!
Try ramming something up somewhere
Yust one more part that gets sold for looks and nothing else. Look inside a beetle fan housing and learn.
Those vanes on the coil side of a std housing are not there for fun they need to channel air from the "wrong" side of the fan to cool no 3 and 4 cylinder The fan turns clockwise tending to favour cylinders 1 and 2 and this is why the factory used such a huge box with 9 different little channels to feed 3 and four. Just think if VW could have gotten away with a cheap "ram flow" they would have done so!!!!!!!!!
Armand
PS the centermount is even worse!
Who cares how it's done in California?
(018) 473-0186
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Merlin
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Thanks for the info Armand.
I've now ordered a complete new kit from CB...
http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=256
It's the earlier-looking "Dog House" style [name correct?]...
Took your and Rui's advice and left the centermount and ram-air.
Also been reading up on yours, Rui's, and others comments on where to mount coils, and mine will in all likleliness mount to the firewall with some nicely detailed clamps.
Cheers, N.
I've now ordered a complete new kit from CB...
http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=256
It's the earlier-looking "Dog House" style [name correct?]...
Took your and Rui's advice and left the centermount and ram-air.
Also been reading up on yours, Rui's, and others comments on where to mount coils, and mine will in all likleliness mount to the firewall with some nicely detailed clamps.
Cheers, N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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forcecooled
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Hi All
Its possible to alter the std doghouse fan housing to give you a lot more room for carbs, without spoiling the airflow to the cylinders. Actually, the mod does not encroach on the air channels feeding any of the cylinders at all. It only encroaches on the channels that feeds the heater system, which when not in use, blocks the airflow from these channels anyway. And, most SA VW's with zoom pipe exhausts don't have the heaters connected and those fresh air outlets on the housing are blocked off anyway.(purity baby food bottle tops are best for this-apple and pear flavour is the best!) If you look at the top inside of the housing ( with the alt/fan removed) you will notice that the very upper left and right , are the ones that feed the air to the heater system outlets. When one carefully removes the outlets them selves, by drilling out the spotwelds, you can then make a cardboard template to suit the exact curve that you want, lay it on the front and back of the housing, mark it, and cut with a jig saw. Just don't cut away the original fixing points for the cylinder tins on the lower sides of the housing. keep your new tinwork just short of these. Fabricate your new filler pieces using tinsnips, pliers and a SFH (small hammer)and a brake drum to re-create the curves. You can even create a lip on the rear of your piece to line up, and carry on down the original housing rear lip. Unless you are a plumber , older than 55 years,and have installed miles of soldered gutters in your time, dont try to solder the job together. Just tack weld all the bits together and onto the housing, and then mix up some epoxy paste and smear it into all the joints and overlaps. when near set, remove the excess. this seals the unit so that small air leaks with dust streaks dont start to show up at a later stage. Rub the whole thing down and paint it with an undercoat and a few coats of satin black - not gloss. - Then stand back and admire your handiwork!
Anybody that made a metal sugarscoop at school can do this job without any problems. Just remember , make as many cardboard templates as it needs to get the sizeing and the curve right. It saves throwing away to many incorrect tin bits.
And if you have sold your house recently, or bought one, the metal estate agents board will make the best material for the job.
Total cost ?? NOTHING --FREE-- MAHALA --and it looks goood!
Cheers
Bill
Its possible to alter the std doghouse fan housing to give you a lot more room for carbs, without spoiling the airflow to the cylinders. Actually, the mod does not encroach on the air channels feeding any of the cylinders at all. It only encroaches on the channels that feeds the heater system, which when not in use, blocks the airflow from these channels anyway. And, most SA VW's with zoom pipe exhausts don't have the heaters connected and those fresh air outlets on the housing are blocked off anyway.(purity baby food bottle tops are best for this-apple and pear flavour is the best!) If you look at the top inside of the housing ( with the alt/fan removed) you will notice that the very upper left and right , are the ones that feed the air to the heater system outlets. When one carefully removes the outlets them selves, by drilling out the spotwelds, you can then make a cardboard template to suit the exact curve that you want, lay it on the front and back of the housing, mark it, and cut with a jig saw. Just don't cut away the original fixing points for the cylinder tins on the lower sides of the housing. keep your new tinwork just short of these. Fabricate your new filler pieces using tinsnips, pliers and a SFH (small hammer)and a brake drum to re-create the curves. You can even create a lip on the rear of your piece to line up, and carry on down the original housing rear lip. Unless you are a plumber , older than 55 years,and have installed miles of soldered gutters in your time, dont try to solder the job together. Just tack weld all the bits together and onto the housing, and then mix up some epoxy paste and smear it into all the joints and overlaps. when near set, remove the excess. this seals the unit so that small air leaks with dust streaks dont start to show up at a later stage. Rub the whole thing down and paint it with an undercoat and a few coats of satin black - not gloss. - Then stand back and admire your handiwork!
Anybody that made a metal sugarscoop at school can do this job without any problems. Just remember , make as many cardboard templates as it needs to get the sizeing and the curve right. It saves throwing away to many incorrect tin bits.
And if you have sold your house recently, or bought one, the metal estate agents board will make the best material for the job.
Total cost ?? NOTHING --FREE-- MAHALA --and it looks goood!
Cheers
Bill