Overheating of Type 3 Engins here in General Discussions
Over heating of ANY VW Air cooled
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retrovan
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Over heating of ANY VW Air cooled
If you have an overheating problem, you may want to look at
Overheating of Type 3 Engins here in General Discussions
Overheating of Type 3 Engins here in General Discussions
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
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Dawie
- Fuel Injection
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Re: Over heating of ANY VW Air cooled
Once a guy asked me to have a look at his "faulty" oil temp gauge. He mentioned about this "modification" he did to his highroof baywindow panelvan.
According to him, engine runs much cooler now, but in the process of his modification, he thinks he could have damaged his oil temp sending unit or it's wiring. Now, on his way to work,the gauge went climbing all the way and eventually reached the end scale at 150 deg.C. He was sure it must be faulty now.
When he opened the engine door, there was this large gaping hole where once lived the sealing tinware. Could see the floor right below.
Had a hard time to convice the guy to just put back the tinware as he found them. He kept saying "but now it has such a large hole to draw air from?"
Replacing this fixed his "problem".
What happens is that the used hot air is recirculating back into the fan, getting hotter and hotter each time it passes.
On The Samba a guy wrote that, even while driving in the snow with missing rear tin, his kombi overheated, untill he re-fitted rear tin and replaced the seal.
Most of our aircooled cars in SA by now have missing tinware or perished/missing engine seals. Even at car shows you see this.
Type 3 and 412 cars have their cooling fan intake connect via a rubber bellow to the ducting from the body air intakes. This should obviously be in good airtight condition.
Beach buggies have open engine compartments, and their type 1 engine's fan intake position does get cool air in this application.
Causes of overheating in aircooled VW's:
1) Missing cooling parts and seals,causing hot air recirculation.
2) Missing cooling parts and seals,causing hot air recirculation.
3) Missing cooling parts and seals,causing hot air recirculation.
4) Missing cooling parts and seals,causing hot air recirculation.
5) Missing cooling parts and seals,causing hot air recirculation.
6) Valve clearance settings that was neglected, becoming too tight.
7) Incorrect air/fuel mixture, caused by someone who fiddled without knowing what he was doing: For instance, a type 3 and 4 engine's dual carbs are specially jetted to compensate for the long intake runners of the air cleaner. If twin aftermarket aircleaners are fitted without rejetting, it will lean out at max power when you can least afford it.
8 ) Ignition timing that was set "by ear".
9) Well worn engine, already done a few hundred thousand kilos with piston blow-by.
10) Obstruction of cooling air flow by for instance loose dampening tarboard (beetle), or other form of obstruction.
11)This is just my own humble opinion. Yours may vary.
By the way, a guy told me that he just paid R10 000, (yes, ten thousand rand!) for ONE fuel injector for his newish T5 kombi.
R50 000 for a set of 5!
Think good reconditioned aircooled engines are still available from Impi , Juergen and a few others.
At not much more than the cost of a single TDI injector, or major service for some luxury vehicles... However...run away from the volume rebuilders and backyard fiddlers as fast as you can.
According to him, engine runs much cooler now, but in the process of his modification, he thinks he could have damaged his oil temp sending unit or it's wiring. Now, on his way to work,the gauge went climbing all the way and eventually reached the end scale at 150 deg.C. He was sure it must be faulty now.
When he opened the engine door, there was this large gaping hole where once lived the sealing tinware. Could see the floor right below.
Had a hard time to convice the guy to just put back the tinware as he found them. He kept saying "but now it has such a large hole to draw air from?"
Replacing this fixed his "problem".
What happens is that the used hot air is recirculating back into the fan, getting hotter and hotter each time it passes.
On The Samba a guy wrote that, even while driving in the snow with missing rear tin, his kombi overheated, untill he re-fitted rear tin and replaced the seal.
Most of our aircooled cars in SA by now have missing tinware or perished/missing engine seals. Even at car shows you see this.
Type 3 and 412 cars have their cooling fan intake connect via a rubber bellow to the ducting from the body air intakes. This should obviously be in good airtight condition.
Beach buggies have open engine compartments, and their type 1 engine's fan intake position does get cool air in this application.
Causes of overheating in aircooled VW's:
1) Missing cooling parts and seals,causing hot air recirculation.
2) Missing cooling parts and seals,causing hot air recirculation.
3) Missing cooling parts and seals,causing hot air recirculation.
4) Missing cooling parts and seals,causing hot air recirculation.
5) Missing cooling parts and seals,causing hot air recirculation.
6) Valve clearance settings that was neglected, becoming too tight.
7) Incorrect air/fuel mixture, caused by someone who fiddled without knowing what he was doing: For instance, a type 3 and 4 engine's dual carbs are specially jetted to compensate for the long intake runners of the air cleaner. If twin aftermarket aircleaners are fitted without rejetting, it will lean out at max power when you can least afford it.
8 ) Ignition timing that was set "by ear".
9) Well worn engine, already done a few hundred thousand kilos with piston blow-by.
10) Obstruction of cooling air flow by for instance loose dampening tarboard (beetle), or other form of obstruction.
11)This is just my own humble opinion. Yours may vary.
By the way, a guy told me that he just paid R10 000, (yes, ten thousand rand!) for ONE fuel injector for his newish T5 kombi.
R50 000 for a set of 5!
Think good reconditioned aircooled engines are still available from Impi , Juergen and a few others.
At not much more than the cost of a single TDI injector, or major service for some luxury vehicles... However...run away from the volume rebuilders and backyard fiddlers as fast as you can.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).