Advice needed

[Willie van Zyl]

Hi All,

I'm busy stripping all the paint and rust from my bug and started thinking about how to properly fix areas where the metal is pitted(see pic). The main concern is on the side of the heater channels. The metal seems solid but I want to make a good and proper repair. My options and concerns are:
1. Cut out all the pitted rust and weld in new panels - My worry is distortion and how to properly finish the welds in areas where I can't get in behind the weld. I can either do oxy acetylene welding or mig welding but still the finishing of the welds is what concerns me because I can't get in behind the weld to dress them out. I can try fill and finish the welds using lead loading but somehow this seems like cheating.
2. Blast the areas clean using sand blasting, get down to bare metal then fill the pitted metal with lead - Will this last, will it be a proper fix?

How would a pro tackle pitted rust?

[Jurgen Grand Slam]

Hi there Willie,

You could try Barry Ashmole - He does metal work and is based in Stellenbosch - he is also the guy that writes articles for the SA Hot Rods magazine! A really nice guy and client of ours!

His contact number is 083 461 3493

All the best for your project

Juergen & Es

[Drusky]

Not to be funny but is his surname really Ashmole or is that a typo

[Jurgen Grand Slam]

YES that is for real - no typo

[Barry]

Could have been worse Drusky - and we can't all be Smith.....

For the most part I would cut out the metal Willie. Can you make up the parts you need to replace, or will it be a bunch of small patches?
For structural stuff there is often no rear access to restrtch the welds, and planning and making your parts accordingly, so as to put seams in the best places becomes critical(either accesible on rear of weld, or in a high strength area where distortion is less of an issue).

If you are dressing the weld use OA - MIG is too hard and generally has more of a bead too. OA puts more heat in, but control is better and the softer bead is easily restretched by hammer-on-dolly work.

Save MIG for structural stuff, and areas with no access.

Beware of Lead - the acid in the flux will cause issues if you have pinholes, or lapped seams - you won't be able to clean it off and it WILL rust again.
There is in anyway a misconception the lead is better than filler. Use a good filler, and do the work right before so as to use it sparingly and you will be fine, with no paint adhesion problems either.

[Dutch_Diver]

Hey everyone, Barry's back! Super cool!!!

[Barry]

You say it like that's a GOOD thing Frank.........

I've been around.. just...umm.......busy..LOL

Willie, hope you come right - it shouldn't be too difficult, but you need to throw some time at it. That's unfortunately what makes it un-viable for most commercial ventures to do quality restorations!

[Willie van Zyl]

Thank you for all your responses and assistance, it is highly appreciated.

I've decided to replace the metal. Where possible I'm going to make new panels then weld those in. I'm busy sodablasting the whole car. The body is done and I'm moving on to the fenders now. I will post a link so you can see photo's of what I'm doing.

[jolas]

Are you soda blasting yourself? Would love to see how you are doing it, what tools/equipment you're using, the results, some pics, etc, etc please

[Barry]

And remember that soda blasting can give paint adhesion issues - needs to be neutralised properly.

x2 on please show the set up

[Bushpig]

Ditto what Jolas said. Can't wait for the pic's and details.
Gook Luck and Hang in there.