1970 bug. Updated pics!

[Tony Z]

FKN ACE!!!!! That looks better. Good choice.

[RICKY-R69]

Only problem now is I have to re-think the route of my waterpipes. But for any problem there is a solution.

[buggyfan]

Made some good progress today. Started assembling the bug. Now you get a good idea of what the end result will be. Not a perfect sprayjob, but I am planning a off the pan resto in two years time. Will detail the rims in charcoal and silver for know until I can send the set of Sprintstars for refurbishing.

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Nice color choice.I see this 16v turbo mini everyday at the dealers also same colors

[retrovan]

I think its just right now, well done.

With the water pipes, why not run them over the top like Herby strips.....

No, joking, Should you want to ensure ground clearance, use Rectangular tubing, (76 x 25), will keep it close to the body. Just change it back to round on the ends.....

Did this with my Trick, and it looks from the bottom.

Herman

[RICKY-R69]

Should you want to ensure ground clearance, use Rectangular tubing, (76 x 25), will keep it close to the body. Just change it back to round on the ends.....
Now there is a good plan,if I ever heard one. Will it have the same throughput as a 32mm pipe. At this moment I was using a 32mm for the top and a 25mm for the bottom of the radiator.(Gets hot water away from the engine faster and retard the return) or am I wrong? Anyway, no overheating issues at the moment.

[retrovan]

Use both pipes same size, or you can get air pockets, this is not what you want.

The Rec. Tube 76 x25 will give you same water flow, or better, and you can shape it close to the body.

Enjoy.

Herman

[flatfourfan]

I've got 38mm exhaust pipe for my speedster and the car itself is about twice as low as yours. I've been towing it around like a mofo with no issues. I dunno if I would recommend using square tubing for water lines.

This is a pic from an aussie who fitted a WRX motor out back, damn neat water and fuel line routing and his cabbie is low and he didn't catch it on everything.

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Using square tubing and then going to round tubing where they meet to put on water pipes is inviting all kinds of problems. What you want is ONE pipe front to back with only the last little bit being the rubber pipe parts.

[MarshallGTi]

Only problem is that I stay on a farm with a really crappy gravel road. But I will see what I can do!

You stay on a farm and you've painted your cabbie black?

You've done some good work so far though. I had a black street baja waaaaaaaaaaaaay back in the beginning, car looked great when it was clean, pity about the other 23 hours and 45 minutes of the day though. Sterkte.

updates on assembly?

[RICKY-R69]

Will finish the week-end.Have to put some pap on the table during the week!

[Ron&Gill]

If the surface area of the hole in your square pipe is the same or bigger than the hole in the end of your round pipe, then it's OK. In fact, if the hole in the end of the square pipe is bigger than the smallest hole in your cooling system, it's OK.

[RICKY-R69]

If the surface area of the hole in your square pipe is the same or bigger than the hole in the end of your round pipe, then it's OK. In fact, if the hole in the end of the square pipe is bigger than the smallest hole in your cooling system, it's OK.

The smallest hole on the cooling system will be at the waterpump outlet, which is 25mm at the moment

[MarshallGTi]

I don't think flow restriction is the problem, but maybe turbulence in the pipe. U would have to work out the surface area of the 2 pipes (round and flat) as well, to see which will have more contact area with the airflow over it.

[retrovan]

The only reason you keep the two pipes the same size, and not go smaller or bigger, is that the FLOW slows down, this means the speed of the water is reduced, and ANY air bubble, that is in the system will "Hook" on the reduction, then the next, then the next, till you have an air lock. so to ensure NO AIR LOCKS, you keep the pipe size the same. This will allow the flow to sweep the air bubbles to the highest point. And remember to fit a bleed valve on the highest spot.

Its the radiator that cools the water, not the pipe.

Herman

[RICKY-R69]

The only reason you keep the two pipes the same size, and not go smaller or bigger, is that the FLOW slows down, this means the speed of the water is reduced, and ANY air bubble, that is in the system will "Hook" on the reduction, then the next, then the next, till you have an air lock. so to ensure NO AIR LOCKS, you keep the pipe size the same. This will allow the flow to sweep the air bubbles to the highest point. And remember to fit a bleed valve on the highest spot.

Its the radiator that cools the water, not the pipe.

Herman

I agree with you on this one. I did not have any cooling issues on the car. When I fill the cooling system, I raise the rear of the car then I put the hosepipe on the top pipe of the expansion tank. This way I bleed it until no air bubbles are present in the cooling system. Works for me everytime!

[Ron&Gill]

Vapour locks only occur on systems subject to natural circulation, not on forced circulation systems. If an air bubble becomes a flow restrictor on a forced circulation system, it simply gets swept away. Don't confuse heat exchange area blanketing with vapour lock. The former is when the radiator is filled with air (or steam, during overheating) so blanketing the heat exchange area, causing overheating due to decreased usable area.

When talking pipe sizes, particularly different shapes, look at the surface area of the open end, not the diameter.

Remember, a pipe is a hole surrounded by material... and the ID must be smaller than the OD, otherwise the hole is on the outside...