What did you do on your car today?

[Tony Z]

TRIED A FOURTH FUEL PUMP IN THE 2L TODAY.
STILL NO LUCK.
AM IMPORTING A NEW FUEL PUMP PUSHROD TO SEE IF THAT WILL GET THE MANUAL PUMP WORKING.

save yourself the effort. You cannot get a new 2L fuel pump.
You must run electric, 3psi

Tony, is it 3psi or 3 bar? I was advised to get an electric fuel pump with 3bar capacity, like this one:

psi

[Ricoffy]

save yourself the effort. You cannot get a new 2L fuel pump.
You must run electric, 3psi

Tony, is it 3psi or 3 bar? I was advised to get an electric fuel pump with 3bar capacity, like this one:

psi

Thanks Tony. My previous post - the pressure is actually 0,3 bar.

[Tony Z]

still too high, thats 4.4psi

[retrovan]

your pump is a Huco, and the local agent tries to tell everyone that the one they have is a low pressure pump. but its a 4.3psi.

The correct one is the Huco 13-3010 which is 2.1Psi max.only managed to get it from https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/car-acc ... mp-133010/

Even most of the Facet pumps are 3psi.

Herman

[Ricoffy]

your pump is a Huco, and the local agent tries to tell everyone that the one they have is a low pressure pump. but its a 4.3psi.

The correct one is the Huco 13-3010 which is 2.1Psi max.only managed to get it from https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/car-acc ... mp-133010/

Even most of the Facet pumps are 3psi.

Herman

What effect will the additional 1.3psi have on the carb? Will it really make a big difference?

[retrovan]

It will over power your needle and seat, and flood petrol down your manifold doubling or tripling your fuel consumption.

Not something you want.

Herman

[Riaan.N]

You can always add a pressure regulator.

[Wentzel]

I have used a Malpassi fuel pressure regulator with a fuel injection pump to supply carbs. It was adjustable and worked great.

[Ricoffy]

Guys, this is probably a dumb question, but will I be able to reduce the pressure by placing a second filter on the fuel line? Thus three filters in total: one between the tank and the pump and two between the pump and the carb.

[Tony Z]

no
it might work if the fuel was free flowing, but most of the time it is nearly stagnant, so it wont work. Plus you'd have to calibrate it properly.

[VW-rules]

Took out some rust and splashed on a bit of paint.

Before

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After. The engine hatch is a non '70 original modification, apologies to the purists

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[Dawie]

Quality of that upper engine hatch installation looks excellent. Very practical. Nothing wrong if done to that quality.
Typically the conversion crowd just hacked a hole and put some crude piece of "plank" on top.

[retrovan]

So as the Lockdown caught me without supplies to work on my aircooleds, I have been busy with the thing I should have done years ago,

That would be clean up the garage/workshop and re orginise it now we have more toys in it.

As health and age is against me, the whole thing was taken up as a sweep,

start on one side and just slowly and systematically attack one item as a time.

Clean it find the new place for it to live, remove the junk that is there at that moment, make a junk pile in the middle of the shop.

So when I got to the timing light and dwell meter, I said to my self, ...

" self, remember when all this is done, you need to reset all the timings on all the toys,"

So yes I got stuck into setting timing on the Aircooleds.

Now you may remember that I was not happy with the G Tec electronic timing system

Why you ask, well I landed up with a dead spot at max. rev's

Thought it was the dizzy, and reworked it and yes it did get better.

But on a long drive up a long hill, found it was still there.

There for the want to do timing.

After the setting, still there, so I sat down and inspected all parts with care, and low and behold, I wound it.....

It was my rotor.

The sweeper contact on the edge was too short for the vacuum advance,

The incorrect one...



The correct one ..



so when it got to the high rev's with the mechanical advance, the spark could not reach the contact on the inside of the dizzy cap.

Opened my aircooled spares travel kit, and found the right rotor.

Problem solved.

Had a look at the Fleetline, and same problem, still had one, so thats also fixed.

But where do these incorrect ones come from, not sure if I inherited them over time, or where they in the incorrect box when bought.

So just something to look out for when next I stock up the spares traveling kit.

Till next time

Herman

[73type2]

I had the same problem when buying a rotor at Midas one time. A whole batch of rotors didn't correspond with the part number on the box. The salesperson argued with me, but I convinced him that there was indeed a problem.

[retrovan]

So hear you asking What you all been doing as it so quit.......

Well the thing is that with MeFusco being welded, ground, filled, sanded, primer ed....... welded, ground, filled, sanded,....... primer ed...... . welded, ground, filled, sanded, primer ed. we had to find something else to do........

With ME being busy with all the office work, not being able to get MYSELF to do anything but utter that every thing has been done by MYSELF, Os its up to I to get on with the work in the workshop.

So what did I do, well after the Bay engine cam failure, I went ahead and did some research and found the oils I have been using as well as most, are running approx. 1200 ppm Zinc.

Now the very cleaver gurues world wide recommend a 1400 ppm zinc for older (classic) cars with hard lifters.

This number has been reduced over the years to comply with the self cleaning ability of the new modern oils and the new types of engines.

So as my API approved oil only had 1200 ppm and I needed 1400 ppm, I went in search of an zinc additive here in SA.

Having found a supply of ZDDP x3 additive, I got me a bottle for each of my aircooleds.

So I drained all the sump's and replaced oil filters, whether it had clean oil or not, and filled it up with new oil and a bottle of ZDDP additive.

Have taken them all for a 5 Km drive, and not sure if its in my head or if they actual sound and drive better.

Now the 3 of us are ALL happy again.

Now we will get the Fastback cleaned for the next JBCCC outing on Saturday

Herman