Stone Dead Batt.

[acpaterson]

So this morning I needed to take my Bus to work as I need to bring some chairs and stuff home. Bat was STONE dead! as in, NO LIGHTS even on the dash..

Ive NEVER had my bus go this flat before, so this is a new issue somewhere.

Now, only shit that's happened the past few months are, in this order.

1. My old Batteries were replaced
2. Then I discovered the voltage\reg issue, so got that one replaced as per Sean's suggestions
3. The after-market ignition on the dash broke, so I replaced with a generic from Tonnesons. 4 pin.
4. I noticed my left indicators were short-flicking. Upon inspection, left rear cluster giving issues.

So, I'm putting it down to the light cluster. Nothing was on this morning, eg: light switch, radio etc, or interior light, so, I can ONLY assume this must be an issue with the rear light cluster.

Could the Monark Voltage regulator "bleed" voltage?

Comments welcome.

Al

[John Alves]

turn everything off, remove negative cable from battery, check if there is any current between cable and negative terminal on battery, if yes, you have a drain.
Remove fuses one at a time and replace them, the removed fuse that shows no current flow is the problematic circuit.

[acpaterson]

Nice. i'll give it a go. Excellent fault-finding.

This left-rear cluster is seriously messed up somehow. Can you confirm wiring colours for the three bulbs plus earth?Mine's a '74. If I indicate left, I can get 3 frikkin bulbs to light up?!

Alan

[acpaterson]

Ok, re-checked, and there's def something fishy.. I now suspect the earth for that cluster is screwed. Will make a new one\test with the battery etc, and go from there.

[sean]

You may have a dodgy cluster which sounds like an earth issue, but I highly doubt this could have caused any issues. When your car is off, lights off etc, there is no power to it, so it can’t drain.

There are many potential culprits that can cause a battery to drain dead, especially in a bus like yours which has extra gadgets.

Alarm systems
Radios
Amps
Inverters
interior lighting systems
Are just to name a few.

On a stock standard bus, there is absolutely nothing, other than the alternator/generator that could drain a battery if faulty.

The best would be to test with a ammeter.

Remove all your fuses. Then use the ammeter to test across the two fuse points. If no drainage there, disconnect the wire between the alternator and the battery and test between those 2 as well.

[Tony Z]

did you leave your interior light on?

[acpaterson]

I'll check. I'm very dilligent when it comes to leaving lights on etc, as it's right in front of my lounge window etc.. and I double check it after each time we use it.
The rear cluster is def an issue, and an earth issue, as last night testing, i couldn't get any bulbs to light up.. so I think a break or heat fatigue somewhere on a wire. Will re-check.
I had removed all wires off the cluster and just left them in the bay last night, so none of them attached to the cluster. got in and cranked and the car started first time. So, thats my immediate area of concern for now.

I WOULD like to buy two brand new replacement Cluster tho, as mine came with a part missing when i bought it, and the internal bulb holder etc doesn't sit tight in the cluster mounting\frame.
Does anyone have a pair of clusters for sale on here? I have lenses, just need the backing part\bulb holder part.

Al

[acpaterson]

Anyone got two of these for sale, complete holders for sale?

[acpaterson]

You may have a dodgy cluster which sounds like an earth issue, but I highly doubt this could have caused any issues. When your car is off, lights off etc, there is no power to it, so it can’t drain.

There are many potential culprits that can cause a battery to drain dead, especially in a bus like yours which has extra gadgets.

Alarm systems
Radios
Amps
Inverters
interior lighting systems
Are just to name a few.

On a stock standard bus, there is absolutely nothing, other than the alternator/generator that could drain a battery if faulty.

The best would be to test with a ammeter.

Remove all your fuses. Then use the ammeter to test across the two fuse points. If no drainage there, disconnect the wire between the alternator and the battery and test between those 2 as well.

Sean, thanks, I agree, my bus has a few extras, however, I was saying this has never happened in the past 4 years of owning the Bus, thats why Im focussing only on whats recently happened.. Im convinced its a problem on this light cluster. The Voltage regulator was replaced and installed as per the original, so can't be that..

Do you have, or know anyone with two of these internal light cluster holders for sale by any chance?

Al

[sean]

Second hand, I’m sure Volksieworld may have.

New, I can only think of flat 4 racing which used to have Empi ones.

[acpaterson]

ok ta. Not going Empi.

[Ricoffy]

turn everything off, remove negative cable from battery, check if there is any current between cable and negative terminal on battery, if yes, you have a drain.
Remove fuses one at a time and replace them, the removed fuse that shows no current flow is the problematic circuit.

Thanks for the advice. This is one of those tests that will come in handy in future!

[buggyfan]

[quote=acpaterson post_id=333510 time=1572601475 .The Voltage regulator was replaced and installed as per the original, so can't be that..

Al
[/quote]

Might want to recheck the regulator again as new electric parts can also come with their own issues

[Terry Phillips]

Alan stupid question but have you got the correct globe in it sometimes they fit single contact in a double globe holder or the other way round some times just such small things go un noticed. Just a sugestion. single or double contact off set pins or staggered pins.

[acpaterson]

Terry, yep, thanks for going that route.. Jaa this has essentially been working 100% on the back of my bus for like 4 years.. then, the other day, after a drive, I usually check lights to make sure he's all working, and I didn't have the left bank.. Well, the Indicator worked, but not tail lights.. so then I started in the back, and its gone from bad to worse, which makes me think the wiring might have gone back on the terminals wrong, or were touching, or something like that..

Now been a full 24 hours since I drove him, climbed in just now and cranked and he fired within a second.. Full battery power, just from my day's drive yesterday.. so, with the wiring NOT attached to this cluster, all seems fine.. So, I need to find two replacement clusters. Mine is def "iffy" esp the indicator bulb section. it's just crap. Light bulb, not sure why the bulb doesnt touch both terminals properly.

So, will source two new, or 2nd hand units and go from there. for now, its RUGBY time..