Disc Brakes with Audi 500 parts

Ryss · Post by **Ryss** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:31 pm

I have a garage full of parts including 4 rims (4 X 108), calipers, hubs and discs from an Audi 500 and was thinking of having a bush turned up to replicate the beetle bearing set up and which will fit inside the Audi hub.

Problem I am a little worried about is how the brakes will work with the beetle master cylinder in terms of volume and effectiveness of brakes, without being assisted by the booster. If they work too well for a Beach Buggy, that will be OK, as I think I can deal with that.

This will still leave me with having to use adapters for the rear wheels.

What are your thoughts?

Post by **Tony Z** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:52 pm

the easiest is to change the master cylinder to a citi golf cylinder.

the booster is just a driving aid, it doesnt make the car brake.

hitlers revenge · Post by **hitlers revenge** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:53 pm

From my side all I can say is I am using golf front discs on my buggy without the aid of a booster and they work just fine. I will later on change my rears to golf discs as well also not using a booster.

Ryss · Post by **Ryss** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:46 pm

OK undertsand but I think the ratio of the diameters of the master Cyl to slave cyl's will have an impact on the amount of effort needed by the driver's foot.

Just wanted to make sure I was not heading into a problem area I was not aware of. Golf master cyl is one option. I will check and compare the Audi calipers to the Golf's and take it from there.

Tony Z
"the booster is just a driving aid, it doesnt make the car brake."

Uhmmm. tried braking a boosted car with the engine off and booster depleted. Requires a huge amount of foot pressure and is not what I want to end up with.

Any will keep you posted.

Merlin · Post by **Merlin** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 9:20 am

Ryss wrote:Uhmmm. tried braking a boosted car with the engine off and booster depleted. Requires a huge amount of foot pressure and is not what I want to end up with.

Any will keep you posted.

...so how much chas do you have to fix the brakes on that car?

You build up too much pressure in the system and it goes on to cause all sorts of mayhem later on.

Perhaps someone here with more experience on the subject can chip in?

That's why it's nice to have an unboosted car in the traffic...engine off...roll along...brake easily.

N.

Post by **Tony Z** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 2:12 pm

Ryss wrote:
Tony Z
"the booster is just a driving aid, it doesnt make the car brake."

Uhmmm. tried braking a boosted car with the engine off and booster depleted. Requires a huge amount of foot pressure and is not what I want to end up with.

Any will keep you posted.

no cant say I have, but then again I have driven my bug for 7 years since the disc brake conversion on all 4 wheels, using a citi golf master cylinder and no booster. It works just as well as any car I have ever driven, including my Mazda 6 and my previous Audi 500 as well as any rental I have used (except a Merc)

Remember its a simple hydraulic circuit. Master cylinder pushes oil to the 4 corners. Never looked into a booster, but from what I remember being told once, its for lazy people so they dont have to adjust their foot pressure by pushing harder as the car slows down to keep a even braking force....

Ryss · Post by **Ryss** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 9:03 pm

Guys ... I do not want to use a booster. I wanted to find out (even a Golf's brakes are useless without a booster), why and how do they work on a conversion.

This question has been answered ... they work fine.

Sorry maybe I did not express myself correctly.

Post by **Tony Z** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 10:26 pm

no reason to be sorry, glad we coud help