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Dawie wrote: Mon May 31, 2021 10:16 am
If feed to ign coil is indirect... (As via relay, ecu, etc).
This can happen. There is a tiny current via alt light which keeps relay or electronic switch energized. Normally if switched ign power directly feeds coil, this small current is inadequate to continue sparking.
Try a diode in series with blue wire to alternator. Marking on diode should face towards alternator side.
Correct, the feed to ecu is via relay.
Will give it a go. Will a 1N5821 also do the trick ? I do have them in the garage.
Dawie wrote: Mon May 31, 2021 12:12 pm
That should also work.
Thanks Dawie !!!
It appears that the diode did the trick, the engine shuts off with ignition and does not keep on running.
This was a real head scratcher
acpaterson wrote: Thu Jun 03, 2021 10:40 am
But, weird you needed to add this diode to make the car work how it should. Means there's something wrong somewhere else no?
Yes, weird indeed as I have not heard anyone having to add this.
While fault finding I disconnected all other 'systems' and only had the ignition running and had the same results.
Also tested for parasitic draws from the battery and have none, which should hopefully mean that there is no faults elsewhere.
acpaterson wrote: Thu Jun 03, 2021 10:40 am
But, weird you needed to add this diode to make the car work how it should. Means there's something wrong somewhere else no?
After Dawie mentioned the diode, it rang a bell. I've seen drawings before with a diode preventing run-on, but unfortunately, I couldnt find any to help Donovan when he needed it. The drawing I'm looking for is probably at home somewhere
That said, it isnt a one-off. Not common, but not a one-off
Normally, after switching off a running engine... There is also a small current being fed from turning alternator via warning light to ignition.
Having medium resistance of warning light in series with low resistance of coil, the tiny voltage across coil is way too little to activate a spark.
If we remove the low resistance ignition coil from switched ignition wire, then replace this with a high resistance relay coil...
Alternator voltage to relay will overcome medium resistance of warning light. So there is still adequate voltage left across relay's coil to prevent it from unlatching.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Not much happening on the beetle. Waiting on the front windscreen to be sorted.
I have added an alarm and some other electrical fancy nice to haves.
I have noticed that this brake fluid reservoir is starting to rust badly. This was a new unit from Wolfsburg West.
Is there some paint/coating I can use to prevent it ?
Another possibility would also be to add a plastic reservoir directly to the master cylinder and keep the original looking one just as 'show'
Donovan D wrote: Tue Jul 13, 2021 10:42 am
Not much happening on the beetle. Waiting on the front windscreen to be sorted.
I have added an alarm and some other electrical fancy nice to haves.
I have noticed that this brake fluid reservoir is starting to rust badly. This was a new unit from Wolfsburg West.
Is there some paint/coating I can use to prevent it ?
Another possibility would also be to add a plastic reservoir directly to the master cylinder and keep the original looking one just as 'show'
That looks like something you can make yourself?
With your fathers lathe and a little welding, it shouldnt be entirely too difficult?
Have it striped and sent for internal as well as external chroming.
or you can gun metal it.
If you want it black, then epoxy spray it after cleaning the surface.
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
I noticed some 'slipping' movement on the steering wheel when turning side to side.
After inspecting I saw some down movement on my steering box drop arm.
Is this just normal wear and tare for a 56 box or can I somehow fix this ?