1.9l Transporter dizzy in a 71 Bug?

[\/\/olfsburg\/\/olf]

Hey all, I want to convert my ignition to electronic.

First I tried putting golf1 dizzy internals into my dizzy shell: failed miserably!

Second I tried the electronic unit that Volkspares supplies. Worked for about4 months, so I am not doing that again.

So I am thinking 3rd time's a charm. A friend once mentioned that the dizzy from a VW bus would do the trick. Up till about 3 days ago I thought he meant the type 1 bus, but then I read an article where a guy recommends the distributor from a 1.9l water cooled type 2 bus. Apparently it pops right in!

So now the questions:
1.Does anyone here know or has done this mod?

2.If so, where can I get one of those distributors?

thanks

[Bugger]

That is a clear conversion

I think Harry 082 4411 986 might have one

All you need is the dizzy
TCI module +wiring same as golf Goldwagen +_R125
Electronic Coil

and bobs your uncle

[vader]

No! Bobs a bad ass!!!!

Don't forget the ELECTRONIC COIL like Bugger said or else you'll keep blowing you TCI....

And we are true airheads there ain't much we haven't tried and there must be like a kajillion years of combined experience on this site.... But have a look at the Technical section and most of your questions should be answered if not you'll be a whole lot more knowledgeable on buggs and busses and them pesky T3's... enjoy.

[vader]

And i hope you've converted to disks up front!?!

[Tony Z]

The trick with electronic ignitions is leave them off unless the engine is running. Thats prob why your unit failed... the factory units work extremely well (I love them) and will last a lot longer if you switch on the ignition without running the engine, but it will also burn out if left on for too long.

[\/\/olfsburg\/\/olf]

thanks all. will convert to discs at the end of the month when my pay check comes in, cos its not just the brakes, I will also need to get rims and tires.

[\/\/olfsburg\/\/olf]

I have more questions about my car, so I will just stick them here instead of making a gazillion other threads.

The body on my car is rusting quite badly. And I have another one lined up at the panel beaters that is being modified and sprayed. I found out this weekend that i am getting an engine with that body!

So now I have an extra engine to play with and I am thinking of making it larger. Specifically about an 1800

My question to you lords of VW is this:

Should I got for the kit that Vokskpares sells i.e. new sleeves and pistons;
or should I increase the capacity by making it a stroker i.e. increasing compression ratio (if this is even possible?)??

Please help!

[Tony Z]

Dont be shy to make new topics, others who ask the same question can then find the info they need.....

New sleeves and pistons works out easier and cheaper (most of the time). Good luck with Volkspares... Most of us on the forum buy our stuff direct from USA. Contact Cal-looker and speak to him

[fig]

Should I got for the kit that Vokskpares sells i.e. new sleeves and pistons;
or should I increase the capacity by making it a stroker i.e. increasing compression ratio (if this is even possible?)??

There are two ways to increase cubic capacity: boring or stroking. Boring entails increasing the bore by fitting bigger pistons and sleeves, while stroking entails increasing the stroke, which can be done on Type1 engines by installing a waterboxer 1.9 or 2.1 crank.

Increasing the compression ratio can increase power output, but it also increases heat generated and therefore requires improvements to the cooling.

[\/\/olfsburg\/\/olf]

ok, so I am gonna go for the boring option.

[fig]

I should also have mentioned that it's not only raised compression that increases heat.

Any increase in cubic capacity will increase the engine's ability to burn fuel and therefore increase heat generation.

Because of the understressed design, it's actually very easy to increase power output in ACVW engines. Improving the cooling capacity is not quite so straightforward.

[\/\/olfsburg\/\/olf]

but surely a small increase in capacity (from 1600 to 1800) won't cause that much of a jump in heat?

[fig]

Yes and no. Not at partial throttle and load. But at full power you're obviously generating maximum heat.

By the time of the 1600 engine, VW had pretty much got the most out of the cooling system, which is why they built the Type4 engine when they wanted to increase capacity further.

There are many other variables that go into cooling your ACVW and there are lots or big-bore Type1 engines out there, so it's not impossible to build them properly.

[Tony Z]

make sure you fit all the cooling tin, thats a big key to having it cool properly. Make sure that the carb is jetted properly. Running rich wont hurt the engine, just your wallet (too rich will wear out the barrels and rings), but running lean will melt things....

The car will cool properly at normal running because on the road, you only need stock power to move, so you are generating stock heat (in simple terms). When you put your foot down with double or triple the power, then things warm up and other precautions need to be taken.

[vader]

My 5c worth is to stroke it first. That way you have the bottom end sorted and at a later stage you can increase the bore. Do a mild port and polish and you should have a pretty strong engine as a back up. This way while your working on your main engine you can run around with something that has so great torque...