Where do you find them have been all over looking for the Champion plugs
Beetle Spark Plug Life
- slak
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Re: Beetle Spark Plug Life
U Only Live Once Right !!!
- No More Landy
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Re: Beetle Spark Plug Life
So a colleague of mine who used to be in the motor trade suggested the plugs were being damaged from a hot running engine. He suggest I had cut open the adaptor on the exhaust interface between the engine bay and the heater boxes and too much cooling air was being lost through this gap.
Because I bought an aftermarket exhaust and those adaptors didn't fit so well due to the angle up through the engine plate, I had to trim them open a lot.
Anyway, I am going to fit another set of plugs and blank the supply to my heater boxes at the fan shroud and see during summer if the plugs survive
Sent from my SM-A366B using Tapatalk
Because I bought an aftermarket exhaust and those adaptors didn't fit so well due to the angle up through the engine plate, I had to trim them open a lot.
Anyway, I am going to fit another set of plugs and blank the supply to my heater boxes at the fan shroud and see during summer if the plugs survive
Sent from my SM-A366B using Tapatalk
1971 Beetle
2021 Polo tsi
2006 Defender Kalahari
2021 Polo tsi
2006 Defender Kalahari
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Dawie
- Fuel Injection
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Re: Beetle Spark Plug Life
Best plug for your application - (beetle used over shorter distances and plug fouling issues), would be NGK BP5HS or equivalent Bosch WC8BC. Gapped no more than 0.6mm or set to 0.5 if you have issues as Tony mentioned.
Stay away from any plug with letter "R" in it's part code. That has a resistor built in. These are meant for modern high energy ignition systems using a 0.6 ohm coil (instead of 3 ohm), and typically no distributor. Plugs without resistors like above are still available if you look for them.
I prefer the "projected tip" version as above rather than the "hidden tip" version of plug. They are more likely to fire a lean/weak mixture. Also easier to clean as the cavity is more exposed. I clean my plugs using solvent and scrub the cavity clean. Then heat using paint-stripper hot air gun on highest setting. Then re- gap and re use them.
Make sure coil is not wired reverse polarity. Positive from ignition should go to terminal "15". Points/ condenser to terminal "1". In the dark at night see if spark wires are throwing away/leaking the spark somewhere.
Most plug fouling issues are from burning oil-(wett-ish black glossy plug, light blue-grey ish smoke), or overfuelling-(powdery matt black plug if still firing, black smoke). Once plug has fouled/not firing it will be wet from fuel so no easy definite conclusion can be made at that stage.
Stay away from any plug with letter "R" in it's part code. That has a resistor built in. These are meant for modern high energy ignition systems using a 0.6 ohm coil (instead of 3 ohm), and typically no distributor. Plugs without resistors like above are still available if you look for them.
I prefer the "projected tip" version as above rather than the "hidden tip" version of plug. They are more likely to fire a lean/weak mixture. Also easier to clean as the cavity is more exposed. I clean my plugs using solvent and scrub the cavity clean. Then heat using paint-stripper hot air gun on highest setting. Then re- gap and re use them.
Make sure coil is not wired reverse polarity. Positive from ignition should go to terminal "15". Points/ condenser to terminal "1". In the dark at night see if spark wires are throwing away/leaking the spark somewhere.
Most plug fouling issues are from burning oil-(wett-ish black glossy plug, light blue-grey ish smoke), or overfuelling-(powdery matt black plug if still firing, black smoke). Once plug has fouled/not firing it will be wet from fuel so no easy definite conclusion can be made at that stage.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).