suicyde engine

[Bugger]

Its a PITA. The biggest problem is getting really good specs on the cam. Plus you gotta work thru the oil pump hole... small and easy to drop bits.

Dead right On the Type 4 I silver solderd and machined 2 lifters together
and then they stick out of the block and you can split the lobes very nice like that like Gynie

[Tony Z]

*shakes head*
not sure if thats worth a comment

[SUZIE]

AAAAA Tony it looks like an adjusteble timing gear. thats why you need to work trew the oil pump cover.

[Tony Z]

I was just commenting about working on an adjustable timing gear. Mine unfortunately isnt.
I might convert it one day to make it adjustable.

Thats still not what makes it special....

[Tony Z]

just a quick update...

[Chris]

Tony,my lips are sealed

[Tony Z]

sorry, the net is driving me up the wall tonight.....

anyway,

I started the car yesterday. And I found out something about myself and VWs. It doesnt matter how many time I work on a car and how many times I check and double check, but I always seem to get 2 plug wires mixed up and then double check, its all ok, even though they are still mixed. Then double triple check for the 10th time and find the problem......

Anyway, she ran 100% for the break-in period. I cannot get my CSP rocker covers to seal. So those things need a re-think and some work.
At first I thought the sand seal system I installe had failed on me because of some smoke coming from that area, plus a small oil trail from the pulley. It turns out that the oil was only excess grease that I put on to ensure that the seal survived (which it did). The smoke I wrote down to greasy handprints all over the exhaust. Eventually that lot cleared up but something else just wasnt kosher. After the 15 minutes, I shut her down, rather rapidly as I just had a realisation that the car was about to burn down....
Nothing major. It turns out that the engine bay sealing rubber was touching the exhaust header as it exits #2 cylinder and this was slowly heating up and smoking.
It didnt catch fire, but I think that that bit of rubber was damn close and extremely hot (out of its designed working temp range anyway). I hung around, checked it out, made sure all was OK. Pushed the car back into the garage and made a list of things that I need to do and achieve when I get back from Qatar in January.

[Chris]

I am glad to hear she is runnung again.Is that what you were working on when I phoned you?

[Riftvalleyvw]

Are you talking about the clearanced H-Beam rods?

Anyhow you have other problems

Im assuming the box behind the shroud in the back is the for the seperator for the blowby?

Get rid of the valve covers or be prepared to silicone them in every time. They will leak alot! They also need to be vented to the seperator or you will learn the lesson of MESS! dont ues the store bought fittings. Have someone weld or solder a piece of 3/4" copper tube to the valve covers then run you hoses from those. How is it vented to the atsmophere??
I see you got a SCAT aluminum case. The bores are not straight for the pully. It will grind when you start it. You can fix it if you have access to a sand seal cutter or you just wait untill it grinds off the case....
Did you tightn the oilgallery plug in the back behiond the flysheel? They always leak.

I didn’t see if you used copper head gaskets on the heads? You will need them for the 94,s or your heads /cylinders will eventually leak.

Where is your oil cooler? I see the fittings on one photo.


I see you have 1-3/8" headers. You need at least 1-5/8".

You need a SVDA distributor or other vacuum advance type.

Have fun!

By the way. I got one of the first 2332's ever built! It even has 3 piece aluminum case. I built it in 1978. Still got it and it still runs. The car doesent look so good any more but the motor does run well!
I just got it out of my storage in California today.. Took it for a ride! Got some bad looks... Oh well should have washed it is suppose.
Jim

[Tony Z]

I am glad to hear she is runnung again.Is that what you were working on when I phoned you?

yip, thats the one....

[Bugger]

After action The satisfaction

[Tony Z]

Hey Jim

Well, well well, what can I say?

The rods I have used are not clearanced. You prob looked at the ones on my website... that site is a bit old and really needs a re-do when I get a lot of free time. So no, you also got it wrong there.

The breather box is connected to both the valve covers, the oil filler breather and the stock fuel pump position. And yes, it is vented to Atmos. It also includes a built in oil mist seperator.

The valve covers are O-ringed and so far the only problems I have with leakage if from the bolts, not the seal.

All the fittings are proper hydraulic fittings. OK, the ones that use the jubilee clips, but they still seal up to 16bar.

Copper head gaskets... well each to their own, you are welcome to use them and when they start to work harden and cause detonation which will wreck your engine, dont say I didnt warn you.

Its not a Scat case, its a CB case. And yes, I have been thru the seized pulley affair, I now own a case cutter and have gone with a sand seal arrangement.

The oil gallery plug you refer to has been stuck back in with loctite.

No external oil cooler yet. No fittings for them either so not sure what you are referring to... I have one sitting in the cupboard which will be installed at some stage if I need it.

Header is 1 5/8"

Using a 009 dizzy because my electronic SVDA is playing up and I cant fault find on an engine that doesnt work. When the engine runs, I will work out the problems with my other dizzy.

I am not running the same cam as in my website, so regarding the rockers, they are 1.4:1
The cam itself has around 300adv deg with about 260 actual. Cant remember the exact specs.

[Riftvalleyvw]

Hi Tony

I'm just trying to help! 2332 can be a huge pain in the ass.....

Just trying to give you some pointers from years of experience...

Besides the Rods I cant see anything that looks like it could be called Trick.....

About the Case. It says SCAT right on it. On the photo that shows the pasenger side of the case just below the connecting rod that is pointing down.
Anyways all the aluminum cases are the same except the high end CB case that will accept 101mm cylinders. They are all made at Autolinia Brazil. They just have some slightly different options and markings. But the case is the same.

There is a lot of talk about the copper head gaskets. But the problem is when you cut your head for 94's you expose the bolt holes for the head bolts. the sealing surface between top of the cylinder and the head becomes very narrow in these places. You will get blowouts which will eat gouges in your head and you will lose compression. If you were racing you dont want to have these. but for a street car they are a requirement.

You used a 1mm cylinder shim. This is not enough to get you a low enough compression ratio to drive for any distance with the rods you chose. That is another reason people use the copper head gaskets to increase the volumn of the chambers and make the car more dirveable. But it really depends on your elevation. You should try to keep your compression ratio below 8 if you are somewhere near sea level. in ethiopia I dont need to use the cylinder shim. I just use the .60 copper head gasket. but that is because the elevation is 2700 meters and up. So we can run a 10.5 compression ratio
What was your deck height?

About the oil cooler. I saw your case was full flowed. Great! I assumed that this was for a oilcooler and oil filter. The oil cooler is mandatory for a 2332/ expecially when it is new. untill the rings seat it will cook the oil. most street cars use a 72 pass with a fan on it and mount it below the shelf below the rear window above the transmission. dont be tempted to get a bigger one. It wont fit there.

Im not a big fan of the electronic points.... They work great when the work but I have had many and they all have left me stuck at some point. I think they burn out when you leave the car ignition on and not running... Not really sure.
But the SVDA is great. just put points back in it. If your carbs dont have vacuum ports, use the 009. If they have vacuum ports use the SVDA but hook both carbs together and Tee to the SVDA.

Great on the header. Just wrap the J-tubes with some insulation that wont melt. This will help to reduce your pinging troubles. The tubes get very hot in a 2332 and cook the heads.

If you dont have the 3 piece sheetmetal tins that go below the motor, get them. they help a lot to cool the cylinders while driving.

Good luck!
You are in for an experience. Both mechanically and when the car runs they go like a bat out of hell!

Jim

[eben]

Damn.... we have a lot of knowledge on this forum....
And from the most unlikely places
who would have thought ACVW = Ethiopia
Great stuff!

[Tony Z]

Hey Jim

Dont get me wrong, I do appreciate your comments. But I do think you also assume a little too much.

eg

About the Case. It says SCAT right on it.

You used a 1mm cylinder shim.
Jim

It says CB BTW and the shims were 1.5mm. I also cut some shim stock to get my deckheight dead on 1mm. This leaves me with a CR of 9.8:1 at sea level. I have taken a few precautions against knocking, like the long duration cam, tight squish area, ceramic coating the pistons, valves, combustion chambers, heads and barrels.

The heads are 044s, so they do have a lot more strength around the chambers when compared to the 040s 041s or the others. This also aids preventing blow by.

My oil cooler is smaller than the MESA 72 plate. Its a multiple plate design, not a tube design that comes with an integral fan that is sealed to the cooler and also comes stock with a thermal dispersant coating on it.

I too have been left stuck by dead point. Yes, when you leave the ignition on without the engine running, they do burn out. Thats because it is an electronic switch which cools during the time it discharges to the coil and this only happens during running. I do carry spare points in the glove box.

The IDFs dont have vac ports. So I'll seal the the vac case when I use it. Its a stock VW electronic ignition system which works pretty well.

Your advice on the header is spot on. I do however have another one in storage that is also ceramic coated inside and out. This will also reduce heat. I dont have a silencer system for that pipe yet, so to keep the neighbors happy, I will live with this one for a short while.