brakes on a 1976 beetle.

[ftt]

Howsit guys.

When I brake hard the car sortof ditches on the right front side and then pulls to the left. Any idea why this would happen and is there a way a person can adjust the brakes in the front to correct this?

Thanks guys.

[calooker]

Drum brakes often need to be adjusted especially on air cooled rides, there could be several reasons that are causing your car to pull to one side it is something that should rather be sorted out by someone in the know, it could even be a suspension issue. Before you do anything bleed the system and put in fresh fluid, check for leaks, take it from there.
Things that could be wrong:

worn out shoes
oval or cracked drums
low fluid level
low inflation on tyre
different front tyres
old shocks
king and or link-pins worn out
tie rod ends busted
steering box worn out
leaky slave cylinders
glazed shoes
wheel alignment out of true
old brake lines
faulty master cylinder
blocked brake lines
air in brake lines
etc etc. etc.

You can check a lot of these things yourself, but one thing you should not do, is cheap out on brakes & suspension, you will regret it later. if you are new to this and would like to do it yourself get a manual, but make sure it is checked by someone in the know. I make it sound real bad well it is cause your life depends on it. It is a real crap job doing brakes & suspension, it is messy and time consuming. When I buy a new ride the first thing I redo is brakes & suspension. No brakes no life remember that some of those parts have been there almost 30 years.





there are many

[ftt]

What you say is true calooker. I will check the shoes and maybe replace them if need be. If it still gives me the same thing I will have it checked out by someone that knows the game.

Thanks calooker.

[camperman]

Ja, I have just posted my own problems with brakes. I replaced the drums in front and it brakes in a straight line now, but grabs heavily and goes into a skid.

Also the back brakes seems to be binding to the drums. This causes the car to duck and dive when braking. This might be caused by the shoes sticking to the drum because of a leaking cylinder or the release springs are old and "pap". In my case both are fine and it is still binding...the detective work will have to start again. I agree that you must buy the best brake parts you can find as this will save you from a lot of frightfull experiences...I had a close call this morning!!!

[Tony Z]

the best investment I ever made was all round discs. Also adds to the look value, but the difference in breaking is day and night.

[Tony Z]

another thing that surprised me, didnt even think about it until I had done the disc brake conversion... is that fact that the car accelerated quicker --- less rotational mass (discs are lighter than the drums), same effect as lightening you flywheel

[ftt]

thats the kiefness. But how much did the conversion cost you? probably an arm and a leg.

[Tony Z]

did it in 1999, TSW VX1, 195.50.15 firehawks up front, 195.60.15 Perelli P6000 rears, front discs vented, rears solid...
R11 000

[camperman]

I would love discs, but again price is an issue. Where did you buy your setup? Was it easy to install?

[Tony Z]

I think the rubber and mags cost around R4500, so thats 6 to 7 grand for the discs, with installation

I think calooker has contacts with the parts

[Tony Z]

I had it installed, zero discout if I did it myself, so what the heck....plus one thing I always take to the professionals is the brakes. I can build 150hp no probs, but dont want to be left without brakes...

[ftt]

yup. I also want to convert to disks later on. (when I have the $$$) but till then I will just put in new shoes etc.

[calooker]

Installing disks is easier than doing the standard drum thing, the kit will bolt on with no problems. Things that you need, in your case I would only do the front for now, it is much cheaper than the rear.

The parts needed are all Golf 1
:set of disks vented or solid (new solid is about R90 each)
:set of callipers second hand (so manny around you could get it for nothing, there are two types, they both work)
:set of new pads about R100

From the kit (contact me I can organise for you for R650)
:set of calliper plates
:set of hubs 4x100 or 5x100 PCD
:6 hex screws

You need to get a set of standard beetle seals, inner bearings and 2 custom outer bearings, grease and locktite.

It will take not more than 1 hour to fit each side. If you want to retain the original wide 5 beetle PCD you can get an adaptor plate for that. If you go for the 100 PCD you will need 2 adaptor plates for the rear about R450.

You can even use vented VR6 disks & callipers.
I have seen a Mazda 323 rwd & BMW E30 & E36 front disk & hub used on a beetle

[vader]

I upgraded to disks in the front and it cost about R800 and I did the work myself. I got the kit from Cylinder Head Remanufactures (011)493-0732 Cost R544.92 couriers R114. The outer bearing# is 32004 @ R162.31 incl Vat (Bearing Man) Golf Mk1 calipers R250 set (scrap yard), Golf Mk1 Disks R228 new for the set. CHR also do the rear disk kits with the handbrake attchment.

So get rid of the old school sh1t and never worry about having to pump the brake peddle ever again.

[ftt]

Thanks guys..