Building a T1 1915cc for 61 Rag

[CALTRIGGER]

Okay, sounds like a 1915 is where I'll be looking to get my BHP from...still not sure how much BHP that'll be but sure it'll be enough to open some eyes...

So... What components do you guys recomend I use... ?
Want to build the motor myself....want it to be reliable and fast and cost is therefore relative...
I have a 1600 Twin port, is it worth starting there or with a new case etc?? I basically need a shopping list for the major stuff and will do the build once all the parts are sourced...

Ther floor is yours Engine guys...

[Tony Z]

how much money you got?

[Smoke on the Water]

[quote="CALTRIGGER"]Okay, sounds like a 1915 Like Tony said do You have a hell of a lot of moola????

Get a rotary with a turbo for 8k... Or go on ebay and Import a vw power plant for under $ 2000...

[Tony Z]

or blow R50k on a full street VW engine....

Power costs money, how much you got?

[Bugger]

For around R18K you can build a nice reliable T1 motor 1915 cc using your own block and heads if the heads are nice to use with out cracks

[CALTRIGGER]

I'm willing to go up to 25k or a bit more... I want to put it together myself so importing a whole engine is not the route for me... I really need to know what parts I'd need to change and to what?

[CALTRIGGER]

My mai concern is...

Do I start with a new block? What crank, cam, cylinders, heads,etc to use

[Tony Z]

There are still some good used blocks out there. Getting hold of a new block opens up the wallet big time due to shipping costs.
I would say for that kind of cash, you should be able to have some fun.

Start sourcing some carbs, 36IDF on each side of the engine minimum. If you are planning on 94mm pistons, then I would suggest at the very least to get new heads, better option would be a set of 044s. Either get a simple CNC head from CB or get a big valve head in a stock casting and do the head work yourself or pay someone local.

Crank, get a locally modified one, counterweighted and 8 dowelled and get a matching lightened flywheel.
Look for new con-rods, uni-tech or Scat I-beams would be great, with HD rod bolts.

A engle 110 cam would give a broad powerband and you could use single HD springs. A 120 would prob need duals springs.
HD cro-mo pushrods would be needed for both.
As a kick, if the budget allows, get a set of 1.25 ratio rockers.
HD rocker shaft needed.
Either do a full flow conversion to the case or get a new type oil pump cover with a spin on oil filter.
Stock clutch disc and a stage 1 pressure plate.

Decide what type of driving you want to do. Occasional street racing, daily driver, long distance cruiser.....
Start with a budget of 20K, design the engine with that price in mind. It will then end up costing you around 30K. You will blow your budget, no way around it.

Write down what you want, frame it and stick to it, changing your mind halfway thru gets very expensive.

Dont forget a decent exhaust and carb linkage.... see, already getting more expensive. Then you will prob need gbox straps and the likes to stop wheel hop....

[4agedub]

Whatever budget you set for yourself... double it. Then you know you're safe. I have never finished a project on a budget.

[Wentzel]

I agree with the other guys, and the problem is you always have "just one more thing" to sort out or do. But go for it and don't give up until you're done its worth it in the end!!

Tony will a modified crank be strong enough? Does that mean it's got a changed stroke also? How much can a crank like this handle? Sorry don't wanna hi-jack the post but I'm curious about this option.

[vader]

Wentzel.. 1st off....Never apologize for Hi-Jackin a post, its the national past time at ACVWSA! JeHa!!!

A 1915 T1 is made from a std 69mm stroke and 94mm pistons. The modified crank is, counterweighted so that it rev's smoother and is well ballanced. A longer stroke (72, 74,blablabla) with 94mm pistons will over 2l. There is a calculator but cant find the link now or remember the formula....(Oh make the voices STOP) To counterweight a crank should cost about a grand, a stroker crank between 2500 and 6000 depending on what you want. If I remember the T1 crank is quite a strong type and can handle the bhp, but I could be listening to the wrong voice....

[calooker]

If your case is good go with it as a basis, get it checked over if it has more than 1.5mm cut then carry on looking a new block is around R5000 at the moment, no shipping included. If your block checks out get it line bored at a good shop that knows VWAC engines. Dave Rowley is the better option in getting a stock crank counter weighted & 8 doweled. Have used his cranks no problems, you need to find yourself a good core for this, best would be if has never been cut, once done it would be .25mm undersise. A stock CW crank is a good option as imported Forged ones start at around R2500 without shipping.
Heads is where you don't cheap out on, Stock heads with stock valves will not cut it, get the best you can afford with 40x35.5 (42/44x37 overkill on a 1915cc) Stainless steel valves, porting in the states will cost as much as the heads themselves, get them unported and get them done local. Heads are around R4000 for a stock casting, no cooling problems with them, but 044 would be the real deal for modification.
CB perfomance Unitec rods with genuine ARP bolts is a good option R1200.
Cam, Engle 110 or 120 with solid 1:25 rockers or FK8 or FK9 with ratio 1:4 or 1:5 rockers by Scat they come with swivel feet. don't go for a cam with more than 300 deg duration on a 1915cc it will be way too big cam R800 rockers R1600.
Scat Manton Chromolly push rods if you are going over 6000 rpm and are using double valve springs R500.
The carbs I would get are Weber 44 IDF's, 40's and 44' are the same price R7000, the kit will come complete with all the hardware.
Get a deep sump too R450
Mahle P&C kit R2000
Febi or Genuine German Mahle Cam folowers R500
Use your stock flywheel Dave will be able to get it worked for you.
The tin Alternator etc, hopefully you already got, you still need to add the costs at the engineering shop, If a line bore is done and opened up for the 94mm sleeves then around R1500 is a min.
The prices don't include shipping, and are a guide, but work on around 35% to 40% for shipping costs as these items are not light.

Hope this sheds some light on engine costs.
if you need any further info drop me a line in the evening Rui 082 830 6493

[vader]

And thus things start to take shape... Soon you'll be cleaning, assembling, installing, starting, zoom zooming and causing general mayhem...

[CALTRIGGER]

Thanks Guys,

Looks lke it's the end of the beginning... I'm also looking at the big bore kits that Clip and CB sell, seems pretty reasonable and some good parts too.