Aircooled VW South Africa

My leave has come to an end again. This time around, the amount of work I accomplished was pathetic. Its amazing how a seat cover can get in the way of a hobby (I suppose she is a hobby too...)

I started by removing my deep sump and replacing it with a larger unit. Now the engine swallows a full 5 liter oil can without the oil even reaching the dipstick. Total oil capacity is about 6.5 liters now.

I then went about making up a "pre-lube" pump setup for the car. Basically this is an external oil pump which I can hook up to pump oil around the engine without having to swing the engine over on the starter. I wont go into details of what I used and how I did it, but this took up a lot of time with back and forth driving trying to get all the parts needed - finding the parts wasnt difficult, finding the correct parts was another story all in its own.
My reasoning behind this is simple. Each time I come home and when I am ready to start the beetle, I have to remove the pushrods and the sparkplugs - I then swing the engine over on the starter motor until I have oil pressure. Then I swing it over a bit more just so I can get oil to everywhere. I then have to install the spark plugs and pushrods, and then adjust the valve clearances. Adjusting valve clearances on an engine with 1.4:1 rockers is a little time consuming and frustrating. Then I have to recharge the battery overnight and then I can start the car. This is time consuming and stressful - a job I am gatvol of.
So now, I just hook up my pre-lube pump and press "GO". After about 20 seconds I have oil pressure. I then run it a little longer just for good measure. Then disconnect the pump and start the engine. The whole process now takes less than 10 min instead of a few hours. So I think the time spent getting it right is well worth it.

From there I modified my CSP valve covers to fit.
For those of you who care - CSP valve covers do not fit the CB 044 heads as I discovered a few years ago.

I have also installed my new cylinder head temp gauges. I still need to neaten up the install as I only had time to install the pyrometers, install the gauges and run the wiring into the car to check if they work. I need to neaten up the wiring and protect it from damage - but that will only take a few hours to do properly.

And that was all I had time for. Buying a new house, falling off my mountain bike and injuring my shoulder and staying 60km away from the beetle has taken up the rest of my time - and my holiday was 2 weeks shorter than planned as I have been called back early.

Hopefully when I get back in January I will have a new house to move into with a garage large enough to actually work in. Working in a 12m2 garage (with 4 cupboards and a workbench) in a block of flats has lost its novelty.


And the worst thing.... I finally got the car ready to run but the battery was flat. So I put it on charge overnight and first thing the next morning I went mountain biking and took a tumble tearing the ligaments around my left collar bone. So all I could do to the car after that was remove the battery charger - no test drive... alas - next time.

Tony Z wrote:So now, I just hook up my pre-lube pump and press "GO". After about 20 seconds I have oil pressure. I then run it a little longer just for good measure. Then disconnect the pump and start the engine. The whole process now takes less than 10 min instead of a few hours. So I think the time spent getting it right is well worth it.

Definitely a great idea - Rolls Royce actually used it in production vehicles pre-1930. It was a permanent fixture on the engines - not an add-on or temporary in nature. If you read 'real' books (hehehe) you'll have come across an author by the name of John D. MacDonald - and he mentioned that fact in one of his 'Travis McGee' series of novels.

90% of all engine wear in a properly serviced engine happens in the first few seconds after you start the engine.

I don't know why Rolls Royce stopped fitting it - or even if they have stopped. Perhaps they still use it... Anybody with info?

Please post a writeup on how you did it, what you used, etc. Tony?

Hey there Tony,

Well, it is a pity that one "hobby" takes time away from another, BUTT I am sure you do enjoy them both

Just wanted to wish you a good flight on Sunday and that you manage OK with that shoulder of yours......... as I won't be there to help make you german saussie rolls

Good luck and take care of you until next time

Juergen & Es

Goosebeak wrote: Please post a writeup on how you did it, what you used, etc. Tony?

Nothing to post really as my install will not work on a stock (or stock style) engine.
If you go back through my project, you will see I have an external oil filter, thermostat and cooler.
I added a valve to my deep sump to which I connect an oil pump (using hoses as plumbing). I then T into my oil filter and pass the oil through the filter into the case as it would do if the engine is running.

Unfortunately there is not enough space to mount this pump permanently, so I take it off after priming the engine. At least this way I can be sure there is oil on the crank bearings and cam after the engine has been sitting for 4 months.

Hi Tony,
Once again i am in awe off your knowledge and perseverance on getting your Angry Bug to where you want it.


3 things id like to ask:

1: Please could you tell me where you got those neat holding fasteners/brackets that you have fastened the plug wires with to the fan housing from????




2: Also, how did you fasten the fuel line to the bottom of your car??

3: What would you suggest a fair fuel line upgrade would be for a 1914 motor with 2 x 36 (must be honest in not too sure how big they are) - could be 40's) twin Dellorto's which would also NOT be too much for a 1600??

I trust you are well and good luck with the job..

Chat soon.

Shot


Adriaan

2BugMe wrote:Hi Tony,
Once again i am in awe off your knowledge and perseverance on getting your Angry Bug to where you want it.


3 things id like to ask:

1: Please could you tell me where you got those neat holding fasteners/brackets that you have fastened the plug wires with to the fan housing from????

2: Also, how did you fasten the fuel line to the bottom of your car??

3: What would you suggest a fair fuel line upgrade would be for a 1914 motor with 2 x 36 (must be honest in not too sure how big they are) - could be 40's) twin Dellorto's which would also NOT be too much for a 1600??

Thanks Boet. Just applying my studies and work to my hobby, nothing to be in awe of - thanks anyway

1) Engineering supplier or hydraulics firm
2) I used those square fittings that you use for running wires in funny places. Square plastic with double sided tape on the one side and two hoops for a cable tie. I then riveted those onto the chassis.
3) I honestly dont think you will need to upgrade your fuel line for that setup. If you insist on doing it, I would say 2mm bigger ID than the stock line, but if you are going to that effort, make it 4mm bigger. Remember that area works on the square of the diameter. So if you have a 4mm ID and upgrade it to 6mm, you can calculate the increase of flow by going: 4x4=16 ; 6x6=36 ; 36/16=2.25 --- so the 6mm line flows 2.25 times as much as the 4mm line.

Tony Z wrote:

2BugMe wrote:Hi Tony,
Once again i am in awe off your knowledge and perseverance on getting your Angry Bug to where you want it.


3 things id like to ask:

1: Please could you tell me where you got those neat holding fasteners/brackets that you have fastened the plug wires with to the fan housing from????

2: Also, how did you fasten the fuel line to the bottom of your car??

3: What would you suggest a fair fuel line upgrade would be for a 1914 motor with 2 x 36 (must be honest in not too sure how big they are) - could be 40's) twin Dellorto's which would also NOT be too much for a 1600??

Thanks Boet. Just applying my studies and work to my hobby, nothing to be in awe of - thanks anyway

1) Engineering supplier or hydraulics firm
2) I used those square fittings that you use for running wires in funny places. Square plastic with double sided tape on the one side and two hoops for a cable tie. I then riveted those onto the chassis.
3) I honestly dont think you will need to upgrade your fuel line for that setup. If you insist on doing it, I would say 2mm bigger ID than the stock line, but if you are going to that effort, make it 4mm bigger. Remember that area works on the square of the diameter. So if you have a 4mm ID and upgrade it to 6mm, you can calculate the increase of flow by going: 4x4=16 ; 6x6=36 ; 36/16=2.25 --- so the 6mm line flows 2.25 times as much as the 4mm line.

Thanks T...

Last question..

Would i need to upgrade to electronic fuel pump as well to push more volume?? and should it be adjustable??

Shot

You should be ok with std fuel pump My 1917cc has one and still over supplied my twin progressive 38Webber. On long +170kph runs the only time it would stop filling the carb was when it ran out of juice. So you should be fine.

And Tony your such a girl.....

But I am happy that you will be combining your woman and your seatcover under one roof soon...

you might need an upgrade, only time will tell. I honestly dont know the limit of the stock pump

Hi Tony

Great thread, I always want to take pictures of projects and afterwards remember that I didn't. U are an inspiration to a few guys and I know you have me making plans to change things I am not happy with. Haven't read the whole topic yet but working on it.

Can I ask a stupid question? U do have a swing-axle at the moment right? In the pic I see a anti-roll bar on the rear but read that it cannot be done on a swing-axle since it causes unstable handling or something can't remember the detail. Could you enlighten me/us on this and maybe add it to your thread?

Thanks

Hey Tony, hope you are ok after the tumble...you are getting to old to be falling off things....

@2Bugme, the clips you can get from Wurth, its called Normapipe Clamps, Tell no: 0800 116 633

Wentzel wrote:Hi Tony

Great thread, I always want to take pictures of projects and afterwards remember that I didn't. U are an inspiration to a few guys and I know you have me making plans to change things I am not happy with. Haven't read the whole topic yet but working on it.

Can I ask a stupid question? U do have a swing-axle at the moment right? In the pic I see a anti-roll bar on the rear but read that it cannot be done on a swing-axle since it causes unstable handling or something can't remember the detail. Could you enlighten me/us on this and maybe add it to your thread?

Thanks

Thanks for the kind words....

The anti-roll bar. I used to have a camber compensator and I loved it. It really was worth its weight in gold. But with the gearbox upgrades, the camber compensator no longer fits. So I sourced and fitted the anti-roll bar.
Honestly, I cant give you a full update on how well it works yet. I have not really done any hard driving since it was installed as I have been working on my timing and other small issues. I do have to pull it out and remount it again as the mounts interfere with my extra gearbox mount. This was one of my things I wanted to do during my last leave but never got to it. I am moving house during my next leave, but maybe I'll get the chance to fix it then and give you a proper report.

vader wrote:You should be ok with std fuel pump My 1917cc has one and still over supplied my twin progressive 38Webber. On long +170kph runs the only time it would stop filling the carb was when it ran out of juice. So you should be fine.

Thanks V.....aaaaa....dush.....A.....aaaa....dush......D.....E....aaaa...dush....R

Love the ignition setup Tony I have been thinking about doing something like that for a while but my EFI couldn't do it. Now I have to upgrade to a never version and was thinking about doing it later on. The plan is to get it running and then later on remove the distributor. What trigger wheel did you use? Or was it made up? and from which car is the crank pickup? The way you installed the wheel to the pulley looks very nice and sturdy is that an aluminium 'spacer' that was made to your specs?