2012: 1/4 mile in 12 seconds

[Ron&Gill]

That's what I have on Rumours, 15" front and 17" rear. Replaced my 1600 gearbox with a 1300 gearbox and it made a very nice difference. I realise you're doing something different and Bugger will know exactly what ratios you need. Good luck with it.

[Blitzkrieg]

Ooooh nice wheels!!! Looks super

[AirPower]

Bit of an update: after a week's leave, I made some progress:

Started on the home-made camber compensator:

Made the bracket for the mounting point.


Used a 1400 nissan bakkie rear blade.

Only need to find a better way to connect the blade spring with the shock tower.


Onto the motor - The internals:



Oil squirters inplace

Counter weighted, long stroke crank in place with an adjustable cam gear
Pistons in place



Up to this point all went well, but measuring the deck height,found the cylinders short by about 5mm



Now I'm thinking - big boost with aluminium sleeves or manufactured Deutz Diesel sleeves? Instead of having a loose spacer in there it seems better to go with the cast iron. what do you think?

[Bugger]

Nice to see some Progress

There is nothing wrong with using spacers under the barrels to space the barrels out for lower CR
You can get nice tight spacers made

I have once got the barrels slightly machined down at the bottom so the spacer sleeved over the barrel and sit very tight on the barrel as it is part of the barrel
My 2.4 Buggy have also about 5mm spacers under the barrels

[Blitzkrieg]

Nice work - That motor is awesome!

more specs on it please?

[AirPower]

Let me just say, I'm not happy with these nikasil cylinders - they are the cheap chinese ones and I don't trust them to handle the boost and high compression to come. I'm really thinking about getting some deutz diesel cylinders made: no spacers needed and I can have a ridge machined into the cylinder to help with sealing against the head (like a steel wire gasket but part of the cylinder). They are very thick and should be able to cope with the high boost.

Blitz - specs are: 78.4mm stroke counterweighted crank, h-beam race rods, 286 cam with 12mm lift at the valve, double valve springs, 102mm bore, LE 180 Porsche duplicated heads. If I can get 200HP I'll be happy.



Bugger is building a gearbox, but that's on hold due to a financial hiccup on my side

I'm trying to rush this project now but as you can see there's always one more thing that I want to change. which is why it's taking so long!! "bangs head on the table!!!"

[Tony Z]

Blitz - specs are: 78.4mm stroke counterweighted crank, h-beam race rods, 286 cam with 12mm lift at the valve, double valve springs, 102mm bore, LE 180 Porsche duplicated heads. If I can get 200HP I'll be happy.

200hp with a turbo?? If you dont get 300hp I'll be dissapointed! You should be able to hit 200hp with a cam upgrade while keeping her N/A

[arnocill]

Looking good airpower
How much boost will you be running? I agree with Tony you'll probably gonne have 200-250+ Kw and not 200 hp depending on boost.
If Tony's estimate of 300hp is correct and the buggy weigh around 700kg then you might do around 11's or better on a 1/4 mile

E.T. calculator: http://robrobinette.com/et.htm

[Bugger]

Agreed with Tony and Arno that 200Hp will def be on low boost

With 250Hp in the buggy you will hit the 11.`s definitely

i had original Keith Black 103 Pistons and Barrels when John and myself built the Flag buggy originally and they have also Disappointed us tremendously as they Cracked with for no reason and the slightest Detonation also was a big enemy for them

Against a lot of Knowledgeable peoples Advice We used a set of Deutz machined sleeves with limited air cooling fins and end of cracked barrels as the material the Duetz sleeves are made of must be able to handle a Commercial Diesel Vehicles hammering and very high CR to burn the Diesel fumes and takes 1.7Bar boost With a Smile

[AirPower]

Against a lot of Knowledgeable peoples Advice We used a set of Deutz machined sleeves with limited air cooling fins and end of cracked barrels as the material the Duetz sleeves are made of must be able to handle a Commercial Diesel Vehicles hammering and very high CR to burn the Diesel fumes and takes 1.7Bar boost With a Smile

So you would say the Deutz Diesel cylinders are a good upgrade - am I understanding this quote correctly?

RE the HP numbers you guys are talking about - I can only imagine what 300HP in a buggy must feel like. Bike on 4 wheels!
Only thing is I'm not building for one race season only, I want the motor to last as long as possible.
So the philosophy (if you can call it that) is to over-engineer and run comfortably at 200-250HP.
Current wastegate spring is 9psi with one of those "bleeder" boost controllers to adjust between low and high (14psi) boost. well thats the plan....

Bugger - I've PM'ED you.

[Bugger]

Against a lot of Knowledgeable peoples Advice We used a set of Deutz machined sleeves with limited air cooling fins and end of cracked barrels as the material the Duetz sleeves are made of must be able to handle a Commercial Diesel Vehicles hammering and very high CR to burn the Diesel fumes and takes 1.7Bar boost With a Smile

So you would say the Deutz Diesel cylinders are a good upgrade - am I understanding this quote correctly?

O Yes that is correct
Will call you and have a chat as I might also want to have another set of barrels machined for my one 2.4 I got to build as stock for a bus

RE the HP numbers you guys are talking about - I can only imagine what 300HP in a buggy must feel like. Bike on 4 wheels!
Only thing is I'm not building for one race season only, I want the motor to last as long as possible.
So the philosophy (if you can call it that) is to over-engineer and run comfortably at 200-250HP.
Current wastegate spring is 9psi with one of those "bleeder" boost controllers to adjust between low and high (14psi) boost. well thats the plan....

With all the Groceries you have in this motor you will make your target easy
The Flag buggys motor was fairly stock 2L type 4 bottom end with 103 pistons and 1800 Valves and it made 250Hp on 1.2 Bar boost
You can not believe the Power Differance when you Boost
.5Bar
1Bar
1.2 Bar
and Bouble Pulling power above 1.2 Bar and here it is where it is Where we used to Race the Bikes Sunday mornings on the Way to Harties

Bugger - I've PM'ED you.

[AirPower]

Got the gearbox and I'm busy strapping it together.

I've had to replace 4 studs with through-bolts because the studs stripped out. I'm torquing the studs to 20 N/m, that's what my manual says.

Don't know about interference with the flywheel/clutch yet, but I don't think it will be an issue.

First one:





Second one:



Added 2 more at the top:


2 more through-bolts on the bottom and I'm done.


So far I've installed the new axles with new bearings and seals and new axle boots. These axles are supposedly made of a better German steel that can twist due to torque without breaking - new axle compared with the old ones:



Rear drums are done, studded and cross-drilled/balanced.


Here's one problem I don't know how to solve yet - the starter bush is loose in the gearbox casing. I don't want to glue it, but how to stop it falling out? I don't think peening the case is going to work - the magnesium is very brittle.

What would you do?

[Tony Z]

I suspect loctite is one of few options...

[Bugger]

Some starter bushes are much looser than others

I just make a few punch marks inside the ID where the bush go and then fill the starter bush with Oil by pressing the oil inbetween 2 fingers to Squeeze it through the Oil light material for lubrication
then Wipe the outer side with Thinners and fir the Bush with Locktite

[AirPower]

Soooo, fixed the bush with some shim stock.



Today the straps are done and in place.

The gearbox is now strapped over the bellhousing and another over the body. I thought about putting it over the nose, but I'm worried the nose can be broken off.
Reason: the motor drops the rear suspension down, while yanking the front nose of the gearbox up under acceleration, so this is to protect the nose and mounting.

So this is the idea:


And this where it's in place.



The camber compensator (home made) is also in place.

Why a camber compensator - it works like a Z-bar and as you know, with the buggy, the Z-bar is usually lost.



The connection to the wheel is mounted on rubber - I used the front anti-roll bar's large rubber.



And I'm done. This is now a highly modified rear suspension with the coil-overs, relaxed torsion bars and the camber compensator. I'll only find out how it feels on the road once the motor is done. Still waiting for word from the engineering shop regarding the cylinders.