Aircooled VW South Africa

Tony Z wrote:yes you can, the cooling air runs through it....The air does the cooling, not the shroud.
The gearbox is only cooled by the casing radiating the heat to the surroundings, if you return that heat to where it came from, it wont cool.

Thanks!

only too happy to teach an old dog new tricks

Tony Z wrote:only too happy to teach an old dog new tricks

In this instance it would be to teach a new dog old tricks

Without any palavaa

clean it properly---
finally with acetone---
paint with PLASCON COAST KOTE available in matt black or red--
flat off and repaint LIGHTLY!
apply whatever you want to over that!
Coast Kote is the best ally primer you will ever find!
IF YOU ARE VERY BRAVE AND CAREFULL AND QUICK, on non critical components without machined tight tolerance faces, you can dip the cleaned component (before you wash with acetone)
in a solution of 20 to 1 pool acid and water for a very short while at a time to etch the surfaceof the ally. Then wash with water, then wash in acetone. If you leave the component in the acid soloution too long it will be corroded and might even disapear

Shot.

I'll just try the Acetone and coat stuff.

I think Pierre's using that on my gearbox too.

N.

I also use the Acetone for removing any oil from the sealing surfaces

Have you thought of anodising your box and side plates Ok that will keep heat inside to an extent but if the car is jacked up on one side to get one more liter of oil in as long as it has breathing gally is open don`t see majour problems

You are not going to sit in top gear at peak RPM for hours at end

You get anodising in various colours

Black is very similar to Powder coate but has more depth

I'm coating various parts on the pan to match the colour of my midmount...you know what I'm talking about Bugger.

I think the 'box needs to go black with polished ribs in a similiar sort of black as the pan is...gloss powdercoat.

The less heat the better...efficiency with style is the key.

I also think hard anodizing will kill my wallet, and after our phone chat re: my 'box just now, that's not the best thing.

N.

Relax will source what we need at the end of the day

But you have to deside what you are going to do before I build it cos may be its better to bo before or after Assembly

Emailed and SMS'ed my US mate. Will get an answer lately hopefully.

Stressing somewhat...parts-wise, and damn, my 13th cheque is looking very far away.

I think the anodizing would be horrendously expensive, and I'm not it would match the pan.

If this Koast stuff is only a primer, perhaps we need to use that and then powdercoat/paint it afterwards.

I need to do the same to my alternator stand, shroud plate, and I'm contemplating the side plates.

N.

We can sit down and talk about it

What are you going to do with youer side shaft covers

Corrovoid primer also stick fairly well
Powder coating will not come off.
Painting it gloss black will not be different to painting it silver
heat travels to sharp thin edges. That is why the factory used fins on cylinders and sleeves thus polishing ribs on a gloss black case is the worst possible idea wrt cooling But i really dont see any problem with overheating any way. so go for it.

Side covers? The new Ally ones?

The 12 spline is going to you, and the 8 splines on my 'box.

Thanks for the info IMPI.

...so what are you suggesting? A stock standard 'box outside?

Cheers, N.

Hey nick, go to a powdercoating plant and watch how the process is carried out. Then you will understand that paint and p/c are worlds apart!

U can not powdercoat over paint!
U can paint over powdercoat!

Mmmkay.