Aircooled VW South Africa

Thanks Tony didn't know those cams will do that. I will look into cam's and Ratio rockers but I don't think my Scat C35 is meant for ratio rockers or will it work? Part of the cam change is due to capacity increase either close to 2l or more. Heads have been done but I think a refresh is in order to get the valve angles up to spec. I will update on the engine upgrade topic not to hi-jack any further.

Thanks Guys

WE SUPPORT HI-JACK OUR NATIONAL SPORT.

Do you really think I give a crap about hi-jacking ChamiZ's thread? It's one of my favorate things to do, since the Seatcover section was removed in Post sheading 3. (Not his fault but his a Mod) :p ObeWan finds some pleasure in it too. You see, what goes around comes around. Eventually. My original Whispers from the DarkSide thread was hi-jacked for 7pg!!! SugarHoneyIceTea Man!!! It was a good hijack though.
Hijacking forfills 2 needs.
1. Allows related/semi-related topics to be expanded on in the thread without opening a new one, which helps increase the general knowlage base of the members & makes reading interesting for the Stormtroopers that follow.
2. The F@*kall related.. It allows boys to be boys and cause k@k..

So what I'm saying is NEVER OPPOLOGISE FOR A HIJACK!!!
Quite frankly it shows very poor form...

But I digress from our hijack...

Its a good idea wentzel to just referb the whole head not only the valves. Do valve guides as well as head studs, if there are any broken have them removed & replaced. This of course is assuming you havent done it already. And then give your ports another going over like you said. Dont forget about the valve seat angles aswell, with the extra angle on the seat, it helps gas flow threw the seats better. Every little bit helps. Something I did learn from ChamiZ..

Haha thanks Vader I will not show poor form again!

Glad you have learned at least a little from me Vader, but you still have plenty to learn.

BTW, the 110 cam isnt suitable for 1.4:1 rockers, they are just too quick on that cam and things bend, which is why you get special ratio cam grinds, which might even have more lift at the cam than a 110 but wont break things in the process.

The 1.25:1 rockers work fine on a 110.

Quick update.
Got new jets and installed them.
Also pulled off my deep sump and removed my oil pickup tube extension. Then cleaned everything up and re-installed it using JB Weld. This stuff is similar to pratley steel but rated to a continuous working temp of 260degC in oil or fuel.

Then yesterday Splitz came around for a short visit, so I decided to take him with on a test drive.
Jetting didnt work, I have to re-think this (again).
Pickup tube is working fine.
Donovan (Splitz) was pretty impressed, after the drive he stood there like a naughty child with big eyes and a stupid grin unable to talk.

Sorry Donovan, I didnt intend to powerslide the beetle coming out of the corner at 80...
Hope you enjoyed it

Have you invested in a proper AFR gauge yet??? That'll make your life so much easier when it comes to jetting

yip. Sitting at around 13:1 a full throttle in the higher rpm, but seems to lean out extensively from 3-4K, down to 17:1 yesterday.
But I did discover that my pump jet spill valves were different from 1 carb to the other. Which is what made me go jet shopping in the first place...

Gonna go up 1 jet size at a time until it is ok at 3-4K. If it helps, then I'll go up on airs until the top is where it should be.
Will probably get back to the dyno center when I have a chance to speed things up.

Tony Z wrote:Then yesterday Splitz came around for a short visit, so I decided to take him with on a test drive.
Jetting didnt work, I have to re-think this (again).
Pickup tube is working fine.
Donovan (Splitz) was pretty impressed, after the drive he stood there like a naughty child with big eyes and a stupid grin unable to talk.

Sorry Donovan, I didnt intend to powerslide the beetle coming out of the corner at 80...
Hope you enjoyed it

What an awesome ride !! I kept that grin on my face the whole day.

First time for me in an aircooled with such power. Going around those corners and sliding with oncoming cars was a lekker adrenaline rush.

Thanks Tony

13 afr is a little lean for a air cooled engine as you rely on the richer mixture to cool the engine as well. At jhb altitude I normally aim for around 12,8 afr and at sea level around 12,6 afr on a high performance ac engine.

Tony You talk so much KAK it aint funny!!!
Accidently powersliding around the corner... JA Right!!! Accidently on Purpose more likely...
Boys and thier toys always show off a bit...

OK, time for an update again.
I have spent a bit of time jetting and rejetting. The carbs are now running very smooth, with the progression now smooth and the flat spot pretty much gone. It is a totally different vehicle to drive.
Make no mistake, there is still a heck of a lot of power, as demonstrated when I put my foot down in 1st from a stop street and the car turned (spun) 90deg, without my trying to dump the clutch. I think I had 1 tyre on paint and the other on tar.
Anyway, final jetting to be done on the dyno at some stage and some testing with timing too.

Also changed the fuel pump from a massive holley blue pump down to a CB rotary pump.
If you thought the old box type tick tick tick facet was loud, but got used to it, then you would have loved the holley as it is much quieter. Now the CB pump is so quiet I cant even tell if it is on. Sometimes I can hear it start but mostly I cant.
This is the same pump I stuck in Stutz's bus. If anyone wants one, its yours for R900. I'll try to bring in a few more next year.

I even took the car to the Bug jam and she ran flawlessly. Smooth and easy to drive. So am I happy that I am making good progress and ironing out the issues that I have been waiting to get to for ages.

And always, with the good comes the bad.

I took one of my wheels to TWT yesterday to have them fix a puncture.
No puncture. Unfortunately the guys who refurbed my rims (who came highly recommended) took me for an idiot.
The rims were supposed to be powder coated, but instead they were painted. So after mounting the tyre on the rim, the paint cracks and the air leaks between the tyre beading and the rim, through the cracks in the paint.
So I have handed this rim in for blasting and will inspect it on Tuesday.

Since I now have to go the powder coating route myself, any suggestions in colour? Keep it the same or change it?
OR should I just blast it and leave in uncoated?

You can not leave it unpainted, as the paint is the thing that seals the tyre to the rim & keeps the air in.

That is why all rims are powder coated, else they leak like sieves.

What would look great, is to sandblast clean, and clear Powder Coat over the rim, this will seal the rim and look like 1000 bucks.

Just remember to tell the guy, sandblasting, that you want to leave it clear, so he does a good blasting job.

Herman

OK, time for a bit of an update...

Going through my camera, it seems I should take more photos... but anyway, here is some progress so far.


For the first time in years, I have returned home from work and have a beetle that I can start up and drive without needing to tinker. So what do I do?
I start her up, drive her into the driveway, clean the garage, drive her back in and start taking things apart.
I wont go into details of all the thoughts that have gone through my mind, ranging from redoing the interior to a full respray, but instead I settled on a bit less work.

I began with wanting to change an oil hose from my filter to my thermostat. This hose turned through a really tight radius and I cant help but worry that it might collapse and cause a blockage and loss of oil pressure/flow.
Then I decided to pull out my oil pump and blueprint it and also ensure the pump cover was perfectly flat.
After that I decided to neaten up some wiring around my oil cooler and while doing this I decided to neaten up the wiring inside the car, at the rear, for the engine management system, the oil cooler fan, remote starter switch and the fuel pump. I also have a few other wires supplying power to a fuse block in the front for items such as my radio, gauges, fuel pump, hooter and so on... So to do this, I removed all the seats and began rewiring.
While doing this, I took another look at my oil cooler and decided to move it. So a new location was spotted, and a method of mounting the cooler without welding was devised. From here a scoop was made, fitted and everything mounted.

I am still busy with this project/exercise, but decided to put up some pics of my oil cooler and scoop. Its not the greatest and I would have liked to have soldering iron large enough that I could use to solder all the joints, but 4 rivets and a few machine screws suffice quite nicely. Either which way, I am still fairly chuffed with my progress.

















Not the lowest point of the car

We are buzy with a 2020type1 for Emran and did the same type of scoop on the oil cooler and at the same place
On my Rotary Double cab bus I have done a similair scoop on my oil cooler oil temp came down around 35Deg and water temp around 8 deg so I was very impressed with the scoop mod
Keep the Updates comming