Aircooled VW South Africa

I not 100% sure on what paint to use at the coast but go for the best as its not some thing you would like to do again 6 months down the line. I would also use some bitumin or what ever they use these days for the battery tray.
I see the hole cut out for making the clutch cable easier to change,I would make a removable plate that can be screwed on flush for the next time.

without knowing too much about paint, I'd suggest Hammerite Direct to rust (or whatever its called)

I think Tony is spot on with that choice.they have a wide range of colours and comes in smaller tins so no wastage of paint and you can use a roller to paint it on.
Also try spraying over the Hamerite with stone chip and see how that works out.Good job Chelsey nice to see you are not scared of getting stuck in.
i that Herman would be the man to give you some good advice.

Im going to spray the pan with GLATEX 8
expensive but excellent.
I dont understand why people cut the tunnel a bit of patience
and the job is done.

Okay are these the same rims that are exported on Samba
but just sprayed white.
I seem to remember back in the day smith wheels used to make these rims??

those are rostyles, just like the ones you mention.
Smiths didnt make them, they sold similar ones - I could be mistaken.

they made these


and these

Thanks Tony The caps i can get from speedline in jhb i believe

mcg wrote:Im going to spray the pan with GLATEX 8
expensive but excellent.
I dont understand why people cut the tunnel a bit of patience
and the job is done.

Update going to spray the pan with Durabak a polyurethane rubber lining
Should seal everything up nicely

ok guys im needing some help here
removed the gearbox no sf ab 318648?
I have removed the old original boots and high pressured the whole box of many years of oil.
ive noticed that oil still seeps out of the main joining part of the box? where do i start on a rebuild or fix
i am at a loss i have ordered the seal kit for the drive shaft ends but does it go further than that.

Bugger Transmissions
He has done 2 boxes for me and is busy on a third.
@bugger

Tony that would be nice but a little bit out of my budget.

Good luck... you need special tools to rebuild gearboxes and without these, you'll end up giving up or breaking something.
If you dont want to send your in for a rebuild, you'll have to take your luck buying a second hand box and hoping its better than the one you have.

I dont mean to be pessimist here, but thats how I see it and why I wont bother trying to rebuild a box.
You could spend some time on youtube, maybe there is something in there?

Right update pan and all running gear ready to be assembled .
can any one help with the rear upgrade on the brake drums by using the
front wheel brake cylinders from the front they 22mm not the std rear 19mm
is it a direct swop?? thanks
PICS

Looking good, keep it up.

mcg wrote:..............
can any one help with the rear upgrade on the brake drums by using the
front wheel brake cylinders from the front they 22mm not the std rear 19mm
is it a direct swop?? thanks.......

If I was you, I would not mess with the Slave cylinder sizes, as it would make stopping the car much harder for your young lady.

The sizes are worked out for least foot pressure for maximum wheel stoppage.

Do not forget, your total weight is on the back wheels, so you need these brakes to work.

Nice progress on the car, when you refit the body onto the pan, please check the straightness of the assembly, as it will effect the drive ability

Best to place the pan on car trestles, all at the same height, this will ensure the body will not pull it skew..

Herman