HAVE YOU SEEN CYNDI'S BRAZILIA?

[Bugger]

Cyndi I have mailed your dad with the Details as to where your Buss`s wiring harnass has been sent close to your shipping agent
so they can just make contact and get the New Wiring harnass down to you guys
And Great Of you getting stuck in the bus with Mark

[Cyndi Kritzinger]

Hello everyone, it's been a while..
There hasn't been too much progress on my bus due to a busy school term.
Believe it or not; the engine is still not back from the engineers.
My dad and I have been concentrating on stripping the body while we wait for it.
Here are a couple of pictures to show our progress.

Cyndi

[retrovan]

Hi guys,
Nice to see you getting along scrappingly.. .

Mark, here are the pic's of the door latch you asked me about, hope it helps.



This door has no latch to the other door, only two slides that run up and down into the body, and has a big steel block for the other door's latch to kick against.



The block you see on the 2nd opening side door, does not move, its just a block for the other side to lock behind.



This door also has two slides that go up and down to lock into the body, as well as the latch you see here.

You asked about my clock conversion, well here is the photo that is in my Fugly thread.... http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 30#p247724



and here is the one of HR's Dash that he got standard in his Brazilia, lucky bugger has two of them, may be you can get one out of him..




If not, the Type 3 clock will fit with a bit of work.

Herman

[Cyndi Kritzinger]

Thanx Herman, Dave is going to check and let me know

Cyndi

[Cyndi Kritzinger]

When I bought my bus, obviously there was a steering wheel attached. Unfortunately the steering wheel wasn't in good condition.
We had searched for a new steering wheel but we weren't able to find one
So what my dad did was he made all the cracks wider and then filled the cracks and messed up places with Pratleys Putty. Just a word of warning..... it does shrink after a week or so.
We then took it to Richard; a fellow kombi owner at Xtreme Panelbeaters and they sprayed it for us. This saved us a bit of time and effort.
In my opinion it almost looks brand new! What do you guys think?

Cyndi

[Bugger]

Very nice now you got something to hold on to

[retrovan]

Very nice now you got something to hold on to

Now you guys must be careful not to steer yourself in the wrong direction.......



Nice work, you must be proud.

Herman

[jolas]

looks damned great

[Cyndi Kritzinger]

Well it's been quite a while since we've posted anything, mainly because we haven't had our engine. We did tow the kombi to the "bombing" race on McDonald Rd though because we had made the commitment to have it there. It even had a brief showing on TV when they aired the race on Boardrider's tv.
Well we finally got the engine back from the engineer's shop after over 3 months and immediately took it to a place to put together for us because we got it back like a mechano set in a bunch of boxes. We got it back with a few small things we picked up that weren't quite right but we sorted them out so hopefully when we put it into the bus it is going to work and work well. It does look a bit nicer than when we first got it and certainly after our first bad experience. To all that have helped with advice, labour or support; thanx.
Yesterday my dad and I removed all the old wiring but we are now battling to get the electrics connected. (we had the problem before we started, that's why we decided to redo the wiring in the first place) Anyway, we have replaced the loom but are struggling to follow the diagrams we have in the manual. Also my dad has bought a new, modern 12 slot, fuse box. He wants to separate some of the circuits so that if something goes wrong only one item stops working.
I am also going to introduce some sound and so my dad wants to have a separate place in the fuse box for that. it will have an amp (perhaps 2) and a subwoofer.
If there are any car audio fundi's out there perhaps you could give us some advice and a diagram to install. ( radio, sub, 6x9's, 61/2's, tweeters, 4 channel amp and perhaps a single amp for the sub. We have seen some kind of large transistor thing.......What is that?)

If there's anyone with a simple............; really simple wiring diagram or someone who can draw a simple diagram preferably for a 12 slot fuse box with the std stuff in a kombi plus our sound setup , that would be prepared to share it with us, we would surely appreciate it.

Thanx
Cyndi


Picture of our engine and the box seat we are busy with to house some of the sound.

[Tony Z]

Looks and sounds good Cyndi

For the sound, the diagrams will be in the boxes with the amps and the radio. It is very simple.
If you get a nice 4 channel amp and run the 6x9's off channels 1&2 and bridge 3&4 together to drive the sub, then you shouldnt need much else. Unless you want to go for sound competitions. You will be surprised how good this setup can sound when run off an amp instead of a radio. O yes, run the 6x9s in hi-pass and the sub in low-pass (high and low frequency ranges). This allows them to work together instead of against each other. Once again, it will all be in the manuals.
For you box... DO NOT have the 6x9's share the same volume as the sub. This will distort the sound and eventually destroy the speakers. Put nice neat boxes around the 6x9s to seperate them from the air mass moved by the sub. Once again, this will add clarity.
If you want the bass to be loud, then build a ported box. If you want it to be clear, then run a sealed box. Use wiki for this.
I loved the sound of a sealed box. Ported boxes IMO are for those who just want loud boomy bass with no control or clarity. Sealed boxes give goose bumps with their clarity and control. Unfortunately, you wont understand this until you have compared the two.

[MarshallGTi]

i would also think about getting something a bit stronger than the normal speaker covers to protect them. i see you're fitting them where they might get a surprise kick from someones heel... run the setup like tony said (1 amp for the sub and 6x9's) and then i would add 6.5 inch speakers in the front, purely for some fil in the big space inside the van. those you can run off the head unit no problem. also when shopping for a radio try get one with 2 pairs of RCS outputs (red+white plugs) so that the amp receives seperate signals for the sub and the 6x9's, just to keep things extra clear.

also, the "large transistor thing" is just a big capacitor. the only job it does really is tries to maintain a constant 12v to the amp when a big bass note hits and the battery voltage drops a bit. its not really necessary unless the system has some major amps and subs.

[sean]

Well we finally got the engine back from the engineer's shop after over 3 months and immediately took it to a place to put together for us because we got it back like a mechano set in a bunch of boxes. We got it back with a few small things we picked up that weren't quite right but we sorted them out so hopefully when we put it into the bus it is going to work and work well. It does look a bit nicer than when we first got it and certainly after our first bad experience.

Is the motor complete as it is? There are still quite a few plates missing. What plates do you have loose? Mention what you still have and I can say what you still need there. Consider swapping that pancake air filter off too. They not good quality!

Yesterday my dad and I removed all the old wiring but we are now battling to get the electrics connected. (we had the problem before we started, that's why we decided to redo the wiring in the first place) Anyway, we have replaced the loom but are struggling to follow the diagrams we have in the manual. Also my dad has bought a new, modern 12 slot, fuse box. He wants to separate some of the circuits so that if something goes wrong only one item stops working.

Try to keep to the stock wiring loom as far as possible. They work just fine.

Only add the additional fuse box for extra applications, ie, your sound system, extra lighting etc. Remember however that this will still come via the one power source from the battery to the existing fuse box.

If there's anyone with a simple............; really simple wiring diagram or someone who can draw a simple diagram preferably for a 12 slot fuse box with the std stuff in a kombi plus our sound setup , that would be prepared to share it with us, we would surely appreciate it.

What manual are you using? There isn't really such a thing as a "simple" manual. There is just simply quite a few wires to fit into a small amount of space. Follow it carefully and complete a section at a time, its not that complicated.

[retrovan]

..... Consider swapping that pancake air filter off too. They not good quality! [/b][/color]

Sorry Sean,

can not agree with you there.

May I just ask you to do a test for your self.

Take the wife's vacuum. fit it to your Oil filled air filter, making sure the oil is on the correct level.
Run vacuum for 5 min, just to make sure the filter is running at normal level.
Place a white hanky or sheet on front of the pipe entering the vacuum, and run.
Now take dry garden soil and create dust around the filter, after 10 min. look at the hanky.

Now do the same with the cartridge filter on the pancake, do the same test.
You will now see why ALL car manufacturers have gone to the Dry Filter cartridge.

Just to verify, you can run them behind each other, and you will come to the same result.

When fitting dry filter cartridge, make sure its a good brand like Fram, and make sure you have a oil breather nipple to stop dust into the crank.

Oil filters look original, and have one with you when you go to car shows, but do not ride with it in dusty conditions.

PS, The guy that went through the dessert, killed his motor, and landed up fitting a dry filter, all be it a truck one.

Just my humble opinion.

Herman

[Cyndi Kritzinger]

Hi Sean.

Some of the tin isn't on yet because we don't have the exhaust connected and we want to do that first. Other than the oils and plugs my dad also bought a set of J-pipes for the exhaust. You won't believe it; they are brand new and have a hole in the one pipe at the flange. The welding wasn't done properly. Dad says he will weld it up tomorrow. The plug leads need to be fitted. They weren't on yet because we had only just fitted the distributor. Because we have changed to electronic ignition, the module is not connected yet. That will happen when the engine is in the car.

As for the wiring; we did try with the original wiring but there were too many joins and changes in colour etc. Anyway we decided to go with a new loom and have pulled it through. Because rain is predicted for the whole week this week in Durban, dad will try and work on the bus because the only job he has is an outside job which he can't do in the rain.

Herman.

We have heard from a few people that those pancake filters aren't the best and were considering replacing it probably with as you said, a better quality paper filter, also perhaps with a bit more volume.

Tony and Ryan
Thanks for your input. We were planning on boxing the speakers, both for acoustic and safety reasons. We also want to use the bench for storage so we didn't want to damage the speakers putting things in and out.
Our plan for the outside was to attach the speakers from/on the inside and then cover the front of the box with a fabric and then put a thin metal diamond mesh or something similar over that for exactly the reason you have mentioned. The radio is a Sony Xplod CDX-GT620UI. It has just 2 sets of RCA plugs, 1 x left and 1 x right and all the pictures and instructions we have show minimum 2 x amps. If possible can you explain in more simple terms how to connect everything. Even the diagram we took off the internet has 2 x amps.

Keep the advice and criticisms coming.

Thanx
Cyndi

[Ron&Gill]

..... Consider swapping that pancake air filter off too. They not good quality! [/b][/color]

Sorry Sean,

can not agree with you there.

May I just ask you to do a test for your self.

Take the wife's vacuum. fit it to your Oil filled air filter, making sure the oil is on the correct level.
Run vacuum for 5 min, just to make sure the filter is running at normal level.
Place a white hanky or sheet on front of the pipe entering the vacuum, and run.
Now take dry garden soil and create dust around the filter, after 10 min. look at the hanky.

Now do the same with the cartridge filter on the pancake, do the same test.
You will now see why ALL car manufacturers have gone to the Dry Filter cartridge.

Just to verify, you can run them behind each other, and you will come to the same result.

When fitting dry filter cartridge, make sure its a good brand like Fram, and make sure you have a oil breather nipple to stop dust into the crank.

Oil filters look original, and have one with you when you go to car shows, but do not ride with it in dusty conditions.

PS, The guy that went through the dessert, killed his motor, and landed up fitting a dry filter, all be it a truck one.

Just my humble opinion.

Herman

Redbuggy.com had exactly the opposite experience. He left Stockholm with a nice new K&N air filter and after the Sudan, he changed back to a oil bath filter (had to leave his nice Weber behind and go back to a Solex) because his pistons and sleeves were worn away by the fine dust. Check out his web-site.

I agree with Sean though. The Kubels ran around the desert for years with oil bath filters. K&N and other paper filters are for tar roads...

So I guess the jury is still out on this one.

I should just add that the K&N filters are not dry filters, they are fiber filters that are oiled, and they need to be washed and oiled regularly, and then they perform very adequately.