Engine running rough...
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- Drive Train
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Engine running rough...
...even when warm.
Ok, I am already having some signs of potential frustration in the near future with the nex member of the family. The 1303 is runing rough, and even when fully warmed up, it will just stall. Took it for a drive around the block on Sunday, and everytime I came to a (hard) stop, the engine will cut out(and the engine was warm then)....
Any ideas what it might be? Tonight I took a video clip with my digital camera. Ok, even though it was night out and the clip is all black, check out that little 'flash of light'(yes, it is at the same spot, it was just my hand moving around badly!!). Ok then, this is not normal in my opinion... Would like to know where it comes from? From the pilot jet cut-off valve(soleniod kinda thingy) on the carburator!!!! Do you fellas think that this might be the source of my frustration? I didnt have time tonight to fix the electrical clip/clamp. Will do so tomorrow night.....
Video here.
Thanks in advance.
Ok, I am already having some signs of potential frustration in the near future with the nex member of the family. The 1303 is runing rough, and even when fully warmed up, it will just stall. Took it for a drive around the block on Sunday, and everytime I came to a (hard) stop, the engine will cut out(and the engine was warm then)....
Any ideas what it might be? Tonight I took a video clip with my digital camera. Ok, even though it was night out and the clip is all black, check out that little 'flash of light'(yes, it is at the same spot, it was just my hand moving around badly!!). Ok then, this is not normal in my opinion... Would like to know where it comes from? From the pilot jet cut-off valve(soleniod kinda thingy) on the carburator!!!! Do you fellas think that this might be the source of my frustration? I didnt have time tonight to fix the electrical clip/clamp. Will do so tomorrow night.....
Video here.
Thanks in advance.
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- Merlin
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Same thing here...hard stops, or aggressive cornering leads my engine to cut out! 
Speak up people...we're dieing here.
N.

Speak up people...we're dieing here.

N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
Check your Float level
Could be your float level is set wrong, not getting enough fuel when you stop hard.
Maybe dirt in needle and seat, once you stop hard its moving around, - its more then likly a fuel problem
Wont be spark, as normally you either have fire in the wire or not,
I could not get idle right on my speedster, turns out was not getting enough fuel as the tank was nearly empty
Maybe dirt in needle and seat, once you stop hard its moving around, - its more then likly a fuel problem
Wont be spark, as normally you either have fire in the wire or not,
I could not get idle right on my speedster, turns out was not getting enough fuel as the tank was nearly empty

- Merlin
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With regards to my setup, we've taken the carb right apart, cleaned it out to the nth degree, reset everything, new leads, etc.
Timing set and reset...
Etc.
How about you ZeroAxe?
Cheers, N.
Timing set and reset...
Etc.
How about you ZeroAxe?
Cheers, N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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- Drive Train
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Well, I hope to do a service on the car soon. New leads, plugs, filters, oil, some fuel additive to clean the fuel system/lines, new fuel hoses(hoping to get hold of steel braided hoses somehow)dizzy is the Bosh 009 type, so no points here!! ..... If that fails, the carb will be coming apart...
But here is today's update:
Well, tonight I managed to 'close' the little electrical clip and now the fit is nice and tight again. Well, the sparks are gone, and the engine seems to be running a little better, but I am still not happy with the way it is now. I had to turn the idling screw further in, to make it run a bit better(effectively only bringing the ilde up, masking the problem even?)
Took out for a drive, and it doesnt seem to stall on a hard stop anymore. However, this will still have to be kept an eye on.
Now...., now I have another problem. When the engine is nice and warm(didnt bother checking it from cold, as the symptoms I think would be the same abyway), there is a HUGE flatdspot when I step on the gas. I know Bugs never realy responded that well anyway in stock for, but this is twice as bad! Picture a Bug with a cold engine and try excelerate 'spirited' from standstill..., you'll probably stall the engine! Same kind of thing now, with a warm engine. And for example, when I drive in any gear at low speeds, the engine coughs and burps as if the motor is still cold? What gives?
But here is today's update:
Well, tonight I managed to 'close' the little electrical clip and now the fit is nice and tight again. Well, the sparks are gone, and the engine seems to be running a little better, but I am still not happy with the way it is now. I had to turn the idling screw further in, to make it run a bit better(effectively only bringing the ilde up, masking the problem even?)
Took out for a drive, and it doesnt seem to stall on a hard stop anymore. However, this will still have to be kept an eye on.
Now...., now I have another problem. When the engine is nice and warm(didnt bother checking it from cold, as the symptoms I think would be the same abyway), there is a HUGE flatdspot when I step on the gas. I know Bugs never realy responded that well anyway in stock for, but this is twice as bad! Picture a Bug with a cold engine and try excelerate 'spirited' from standstill..., you'll probably stall the engine! Same kind of thing now, with a warm engine. And for example, when I drive in any gear at low speeds, the engine coughs and burps as if the motor is still cold? What gives?
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- eben
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I had a similar problem on one of my buggies when I bought it, it stood for a long time. The problem was dirt/sludge in the metal fuel line running through the chassis. Cleaned it out by pushing a wire up and down its throat. You have to remove the tank. The flat spot was due to the same problem, the moment you put foot it does not get enough fuel.
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Eben,
Thanks for the input. I cant remember what the process is for checking a condenser(if any)? Havent had a Bug engine with a 009 since I sold mine in SA back in the days.... I had the problem with the Lucy(the Fastback), that whe wont start when the engine was hot due to the two fuel cut-off valves would leak air into the carb. Fixed the problem with wome teflon tape on the threads. Havent had a problem since. Hope to get some work done on the car this afternoon.
ptlpip,
That was along the line what I was thinking last night... But taking anything off of this Bug is going to be the last option(mostly because I have the wife breathing down my neck that I take things apart ad never put them back!!!
)
Thanks for the input. I cant remember what the process is for checking a condenser(if any)? Havent had a Bug engine with a 009 since I sold mine in SA back in the days.... I had the problem with the Lucy(the Fastback), that whe wont start when the engine was hot due to the two fuel cut-off valves would leak air into the carb. Fixed the problem with wome teflon tape on the threads. Havent had a problem since. Hope to get some work done on the car this afternoon.
ptlpip,
That was along the line what I was thinking last night... But taking anything off of this Bug is going to be the last option(mostly because I have the wife breathing down my neck that I take things apart ad never put them back!!!


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- Tom Bishop
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Some thing else the will contribute to the flat spot is the 009 (macho image crap). Get rid of it, you will get a more traffic drivable car, and you will find your fuel consumption will improve. If you still running the stock carb, I would rebuild it, then get the dizzy that your VW was originally fitted with. VW made over 100 different type 1 engine dizzys with different profiles and 4 different timings so it is important to have the correct one for you car.
BTW a 009 may also have points unless it was purchased with the electronic ignition already fitted or was converted.
Cheers
BTW a 009 may also have points unless it was purchased with the electronic ignition already fitted or was converted.
Cheers
”Experience is what you get when you do not get what you want”
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Good advice there Tom, I dumped my 009 ages ago and couldn't be happier........I had endless problems with it, fuel and driveability for starters.......Tom Bishop wrote:Some thing else the will contribute to the flat spot is the 009 (macho image crap). Get rid of it, you will get a more traffic drivable car, and you will find your fuel consumption will improve. If you still running the stock carb, I would rebuild it, then get the dizzy that your VW was originally fitted with. VW made over 100 different type 1 engine dizzys with different profiles and 4 different timings so it is important to have the correct one for you car.
BTW a 009 may also have points unless it was purchased with the electronic ignition already fitted or was converted.
Cheers