Aircooled VW South Africa

As the topic says: Goal is to reach 12 seconds or less in the 1/4 mile.

Progress is slooooww - after 4 years this is where I'm at:
Type 4 2 liter.
Fuel injected
4 disc brakes with brake booster
Hydraulic clutch
Home made front wing, castor shims, front coil-overs.

Here are some pics:

Carbon fibre'd the rear in case of engine blow-out.


Front:



Home made front wing - this actually made the car feel less "light" in the front, steering is more responsive.


For those that are interested, the hydraulic clutch kit:

It installs inside the tunnel and attaches to the passenger side pedal assembly bolts.



You also need to work through the front of the tunnel - through that little inspection plate on the nose.
I put the feed pipe through the old fuel line opening to go to the supply reservoir (for hydraulic fluid)


Clutch pushrod needs to be installed in place of the old cable hook



Rear slave cylinder


Now I know I'll get flamed for this, but the gear lever was too far to the front of the car making it difficult to reach and change gears, so I shortened the hand brake lever


And installed a home made adapter to move the gear lever back. Now I don't have to lean forward to change gears.


LOL at one stage I thought of calling my project the "FOOSEK" buggy as in: VOETSAK



Even got the running dog painted on, but I think the real Chip Foose will sue my @ss back into a credit crunch for that, so no, I'll think of something else.


Still to do:
Rear camber compensator to be built using a bakkie rear leaf spring (mostly to stop it squating too low in the rear)
Change of wheels - looking for 17" in the back.

Then motor and gear box.

Here's hoping for LOTS of free time in 2012 to work on the buggy.
Mario

Good luck with the project. I am also hoping to make it to the track in 2012 - I'm aiming for 13s.

Awesome project!

What have you done to the motor?

I'll take the "or less" option


Good luck. Be good to see it on the strip

Impossible is NOTHING! keep us posted on when(not if) you get your 12sec or below, looking good so far

have a chat with bugger about the flag buggy...........that thing is a legend,

JohnHoffe wrote:Awesome project!

What have you done to the motor?

Hi John, the motor is in pieces. The only thing holding me back from assembling it is the oil system. I'm looking at running dry sump but don't want all the extra plumbing and expense. I spent the last 2 months building an extended sump to hold most of the oil (~2liters) below the motor but now I not so sure if the 30mm oil pump will be able to prime itself. Standard pump looks like the oil level, when standing still, will reach about halfway up the pump body, so it's basically primed all the time. If I drop the oil level to below the pump, I'm worried the pump won't prime causing loss of oil pressure. Still don't know what to do there.

The rest (crank,rods,heads etc) are in storage waiting for me to make up my mind.
Included is a turbo and I'm going to try 2 intercoolers: air/air and charge cooler. Hoping for 1 bar boost on 95 octane, so compression is going to be ~6.5:1 with a slightly hotter cam.

Thanks for all the well wishes, but don't expect too much progress too quickly - I can only spend about 2 days in a month on this.

I've spoken to Bugger before regarding a gearbox and I've also got some of the stuff for a better gearbox (sideshafts, super-diff stage 2 pressure plate etc). Fact is (as Bugger suggested) we need the motor running to really make good decisions. A lot depends on where it builds boost and where maximum torque is found.

Aircooled well wishes
Mario

the oil pump is positive displacement. Make sure the clearances are good and tight and it wont have any issue priming.

With the oil on the stock dipstick full mark, the oil sits just below the pump - you can remove the pump without it spilling out.

changing my oil pump....

Good luck with the projects!! Please keep us up to date, I will also love to be there when you take it to the track if at all possible. May we all have time and $$ for out projects in the new year!

How is the cooling going to work. How are you gonna get air over the heads and oil cooler (If you still gonna use yours).

Very interested as I have a type 3 and 4 that I could put in my buggy.

Which would make all you A/C buggers out there smile again.

Hi Mario

Remember Rome was not built in one day take it step by step and on the long run you Save money

Hope to see you by the Track next year

hitlers revenge wrote:How is the cooling going to work. How are you gonna get air over the heads and oil cooler (If you still gonna use yours).

Very interested as I have a type 3 and 4 that I could put in my buggy.

Which would make all you A/C buggers out there smile again.

The cooling is basically sorted - it's an upright conversion I did myself. '56 fan housing with the type 4 fan attached to the altie. It seems to cool OK for regular driving - I'm driving it on the road, test drives of +- 10km or so. Had some problems with the fan belt twisting but after reversing the alternator's pulley that's now fixed.
Currently the exhaust is a piece of but that'll get sorted.
Did I mention it's currently running with a GOTECH? I had a video on here at some stage. Wasted spark and 330cc injectors. Plan is to use 550cc injectors but I'm having a hard time getting the 330's lean enough at idling with the std motor, so the 550's will only be used on the upgraded engine.

Oil cooler is in the normal place (for the type 4), but I'm adding a 72 plate external with a thermostat and external pressure control (more like over pressure relief). The block has Audi oil squirters installed and I'm going to feed some additional oil via the petrol pump bracket to make sure the other side don't loose pressure because of the squirters. (They feed directly out of the main oil channel).

Happy and safe 2012 to everyone.

Hey Mario,

Please consider speaking to Sarel Wagner about his services with the help of engine simulation software. With a detailed inpout of your engine configuration he can generate a sh!tload of useful info for you. It also includes suggestions on how to optimise your configuration.

Cheers,
John

Finally was able to source some mags for the buggy

I've always wanted to get 17" for the rear.
So here they are: Front - 5 spoke in 15" by 5.5" and the rear 5 spoke in 17" by 8"




So Mr. bugger I now need to send you some money for a gearbox.
We can now do a close-ratio gearbox. These 17" wheels should give it the legs to run well.