2000cc Type 4 Motor

[boxerulez]

Righto,

Saturday I got my transplant motor. Still have not fired her up.

No play on crank and she turns over freely with the plugs removed. There is a bit of oil leaking from the seal the the bellhousing end of the motor, this got progressively worse as we started turning her over on the starter. My guess is the seal is worn but I have not gotten as far as to remove it.

I pulled out the best of the 3 dizzies that I got with the bus and motor. New Points and Condenser fitted. She sparks beautifully for the first 2-3 cycles and then the spark just disappears. I have used miscellaneous coils from the different sources and from my shelves in the garage and only one of them giving spark, hence the others are all stuffed in my humble opinion. I think tomorrow Ill pick up another coil from midas to test on. Hopefully this will be the miracle cure for my type4 hiccup.

Also the fuel pump does not pump as I crank her. I have 7 other type 4 pumps to test and hopefully I will find one to supply the motor with much needed fuel, up to now I have been priming the carbs from up top just to get it to fire up for a few seconds.

I have also wired up the chokes and electronic controls on the carbs.

Ill keep you guys updated as it progresses.

[slak]

check the condensor these new one's like to just die on u

[boxerulez]

Ive replace with new once and then back to Bosch NOS Condenser with same effect.

[boxerulez]

She fired up last night what a sound and proof you really cant kill a aircooled motor easily. Will have to do a helicoil here and there, gaskets and crankseal at the back... also an electric fuelpump. How does one close off the mechanical fuel pump? Leave it in place or what?

Also I will have to get an exhaust for this. What are the options for a type4 exhaust? Ill need Manifolds and silencer...

[Blitzkrieg]

I have a 4-1 Type 4 branch if you want - R250-00.

Just needs a silencer...

PM me

[Dawie]

Just beware that 34pdsit carbs with their small floats do not like high fuel pressure at all. The standard mechanical pump's output pressure is already borderline on the high side. Pressure of mechanical pump can be adjusted/reduced by using a thicker gasket under the pump. Standard vw mechanical pump is a high volume/low pressure unit. Generally people say 0.15 bar or 2psi is where 32/34pdsit's work best.
Most aftermarket electric fuel pumps violates this by several times. Causing high fuel consumption and shorter engine life.

If you really have to run an electric pump, use a good quality pressure regulator as well. Some so called regulators are in fact "flow restrictors" , which also restrict flow at high rpm's but still allows overpressure to occur at low revs/ idle.

Also remember to use a safety controller-relay-unit that stops electric fuel pump if engine is not running.

[boxerulez]

I have 3 mechanical pumps, all three of them do pump (when actuated by hand) the mechanical pump has a thick rubber gasket/spacer on it, the pushrod is in place with no sign of wear or breakage however when I crank it over not one of the 3 sucks the fuel out the can (temporary fuel tank while the motor is on the stands)

Also there is on all 3 pumps three in/outlets, on two of them the smallest pin/orifice is broken off... on the third one there is the obvious in and out and a third nozzle pointing down and towards the back/fan side of the motor...

How can I "benchtest" these pumps without fitting them and testing them?? Like I said by hand they do pump air, but I think my hand lacks the ability to get them pulsing quick enough to actually pump the fuel...

[hitlers revenge]

Here is my 5c.

Remove the mechanical fuel pump and rotate motor until the little crank is at its highest point. IOW it would now push the fuel pump shaft if it was in place. Now measure the distance between top of little crank and the block.

Then measure the the length of the feul pump shaft when it is fully pushed up against the pump diaprahm. This measurement should equal the one you got between crank and casing.

Or am I mad???
Hope you understand this.

[retrovan]

I think the thickness of your spacer is incorrect.
What you can do is place the fuel pump on the studs/bolts without the spacer.
Make sure the spacer thickness is left open between casing and pump.
Then start motor, or have someone crank it with the starter.
Have the pump connected to a fuel source.
Now as the motor turns, slide the pump down to the casing, where you have the best pumping action, measure the space between pump and casing, make spacer that size, and hey presto, pump is working.
Why, well it could be that you have the incorrect pump for that motor......

[Dawie]

What i did is:
With fuel pump removed, turn engine till the pushrod for the pump is protruding at it's highest position. Leave it like that. Pump inlet pipe must be connected to tank outlet or some fuel source.

Now put pump in position on studs but do not fit the nuts. Move pump towards the pushrod and back by hand, (several times in succession. It should pump reasonably strong. This i also do before starting engine after working on carbs, (now with outlet connected to carbs). Doing so will fill the fuel lines and prime the carbs. When carbs are full and needle/seats close, you will not feel the light force against the pushrod any more. This is because the diaphragm is held at it's limit by fuel pressure acting on it. Once fuel is used by the carbs, (or pressure released by loosening the outlet pipe), the diaphragm will move again and push lever against pushrod to resume pumping.

Fuel pump's lever should never be forced any further than it was designed to do, otherwise diaphragm will be ruptured or damaged.