Aircooled VW South Africa

julietwhiskey wrote:Hi, apologies if this post is in the wrong place. Moderator please move.

I have plans building a beach buggy. Obviously the first logical step is to have a proper donor beetle (apart from the funds, time, skills, experience, etc. etc. that usually strangles such ambition). I have been advised to ensure that the base of the buggy is sound, and importantly, compliant with current license regulations i.e. on the road and currently licensed (I have gained some good insight on the forum of the highs and lows of this process).

I have a fundamental problem chopping a fairly decent car and have obviously been looking for that "abandoned beetle standing in a barn" that will do much better as a buggy. It seems as if these beetles have been "left at the altar" (ex-student cars ) and are available... but enter the latter part of the advice - paperwork.

One is then left with the dilemma to chop (and pay premium and possibly kill a potential classic) or take what is available and as close to "left at the altar", but with paperwork. In this category you also face the Code 3 car issue, which I don't have an issue with as such, as long as the mechanics and structure checks out, as the body will not be required. However, the body may offer some clues as to why the donor ended up as a Code 3 and I would appreciate any advice in this regard based on member’s experience:

Alot of Beetles ended up as Scrapped (Papaer wise and not Acident damage) and then "Rebuild" and re introduced in the old Systems that is why there are lots of code 3`s and alot was just left and not licence paid in the old old system then it became sort off Dormant and gone to code 3


My direct concern is the structural integrity of the Tunnel, Frame head (?) and Rear suspension i.e. "chassis" . The car I'm looking at has clear signs of body repair work on the font side, indicating a major shunt as some point and bonnet definitely a replacement. The rest of the dents seem minor wrt impact, but the roof also indicates quite a bit of history (hail storm?, rolled over? driven under a higher vechile? roadsign hitting the roof?)
So my questions are:
> Are there any "tests" / "checkpoints" to look for and ensure that the beetle chassis is not twisted (out of level) or bent (out of square) whilst the body is on?

Checking by Eye is a bit difficult but just look from a distance to the front how the wheels sit and Tyre wear front and back
A beetle suspension can take Quite a bit of hammering most chacks is in the bonnet to see if the car was in a Accident before and the back valance

> I intend going the SWB route - so can these types of deficiencies be corrected as part of the shortening process? (If you know of professionals that do this kind of work in JHB / PTA area I would appreciate any contacts via PM.)

I am not sure if DAW does pan shortening but Replicars sure think they do still

> Rust on the floor-pans are easy to spot, but how durable is the tunnel section as a rule?
aslong as the tunnel was not cut for Clutch cable repairs then the tunnels are quite strong with the side panels on
> Are there any "non-acceptable Beetle behaviours" that may indicate problems with the drive line whilst testing on the road?
The normal obvious thing pulling hard on the steering could indicate damaged syuspension or just plain Wheel Alighnment
test the brakes and see how the car pull when braking
> What would a body be worth in a worst case scrap metal scenario? (I don't intend keeping the body for too long and would like to spend wisely.)
Depending what it Weigh and the price of steel depending on how long is not long that you will be keeping the shell

Sometimes it is good to buy a Cheap Buggy as a donor and Rebuild it your sef as most of the hard work is done

Thanks JW

buggyfan wrote:Might be better if you update your user profile to show where in jhb you are based

MELLO YELLOW wrote:Why go the route of cutting a beetle body
If you are interested I have an extra beach buggy body that I am not goint to use
let me know