Aircooled VW South Africa

As they say you play you pay, no offence Herman.

Too True Terry, But this school fee's where not for my account....

Needless to say the engine is in, and the rev counter is once again connected

Added a Oil temperature gauge, and tested it to my Calibrated oven recorder.

Have been doing short trips, 5 to 10 Km around the house. no problem.

Today I did my 1st 100Km trip, in one go, no stopping, no cool down periods, just driving.

As it was a cool rainy day, i did not think the temp will be an issue, so off I went.

Filled up at the local garage, and she climbed steady to 85 Deg C, then got on the high way to Humansdorp and cruised at 3000rpm at 80 Km /h and she went up to 95 Deg. C up hill down hill she stayed there.

Turned round to Thornhill and ran up the long hill at this speed, she took it in her stride, climbing strongly in top gear, and we came out the top still doing 80Km/h

She did rise to 105 Deg C at the top, but went down back to 95 Deg C as we went down hill again.

At Thornhill I took the old road, back to jefferys Bay, and drove at 70 -80 all the way and the oil staying at 95 deg C till I went down the long hill to the Gamtoos Old bridge, where she went down to 80 deg. C against compression.

Once back in town, she rose back to 95 deg.C and stayed there all the way home.

So with a 100 km behind her back, it would seem that the issues where sorted, and the engine is pulling as strong as before.

So now this happy camper will be putting some Km on here clock to get a few oil changes on here before Sani.

So thanks for looking, and till later.

Herman

next time you change the oil, bin the 20W50 and put in 15W40
I'll bet you she'll run cooler

Herman, this sounds like a gemorse engine already.

95 degrees at only 80km/h is too much. What’s it going to do when you get to 120km/h and it’s at 5000 rpm?

Stock standard is what works and never over heats. The only engine I have that runs hot is the one that has modifications to the cam, counterwighted crank, 4-1 exhaust and all that nonsense. Stock 1600 between 90 - 100km/h runs 80 degrees, this modified nonsense flies over 100 degrees doing the exact same speed. I got burnt twice with believing Andreno and Dave Ingles modifications to cranks and cams etc and both motors couldn’t hit 25 000km before they were busted.

Just chat with more people that travel across the country in their ACVW’s, they drive with stock motors, many others have tried very expensive modified motors and reverted back to stock due to reliability issues.

Stock standard everything is what works and makes a reliable long lasting bus.

Little off topic, but please tell me where you measure the temps and how you fitted a sensor there. Tx

I'd loveto know as well,.......just to improve the library !

Haans

AlanH wrote: ↑Thu Mar 22, 2018 7:39 am Little off topic, but please tell me where you measure the temps and how you fitted a sensor there. Tx

Haans wrote: ↑Thu Mar 22, 2018 1:39 pm I'd loveto know as well,.......just to improve the library !
Haans

Hi Guys,

What I did is take an old sump plug and drilled and tapped it out to take the sensor, making sure the sensor sticks out the top of the drain plug, this gives me true oil temp, and does not hinder flow, as if put into the oil channels.

Sure the guru's will have better places to put it, but I believe the oil in the sump is the place to be.

The wires have a plug fitted to it so I can unplug when changing oil.

Herman

sean wrote: ↑Thu Mar 22, 2018 5:41 am Herman, this sounds like a gemorse engine already. .......95 degrees at only 80km/h is too much. What’s it going to do when you get to 120km/h and it’s at 5000 rpm?......................

Hi Sean, Thanks for your input, and yes I do not normally run hot motors on my classic's, but I did want a bit extra as I do not drive them every day all day.

The normal recommended temp for a VW aircooled is 80 to 110. deg.C (as per most experts on the internet.)

My engine is still tight, not as bad as it was the 1st time, but the indication that when tight, she only gets to 105 on a long steep hill in top gear at 80Kph is a sign that she will be fine.

Her coming down to 80 down hill tells me she has no internal self generating heat, so my tolerances are spot on.

This motor will settle down, and she will do a few good miles, I am not an engine killer. Have never run an aircooled at 5000rpm....

Let see.

Herman

Herman,
just to check. When they talk about temperatures on the aircooled motors are they referring to the oil specifically or could they mean air temp that runs through the fins and out?

AlanH wrote: ↑Thu Mar 22, 2018 6:52 pm Herman,
just to check. When they talk about temperatures on the aircooled motors are they referring to the oil specifically or could they mean air temp that runs through the fins and out?

There is a lot of guys saying that you need to test the oil, and others say you need to test the fins, or heads.

The thing I got about the heads or fins, is that you have air blowing over these parts and how sure are you that you get the metal temp, or the airflow temp.

Guys have put temp gauges on there heads, and then state that the motor runs at 80 deg. C but in fact the oil reads 100 deg. C

I have found 20 Deg C difference between test points.

As it is the oil that will be compromised at high temp, surely this is what you should be measuring. Your oil will be the 1st to go.

But once again this is OMO

Herman

Tony Z wrote: ↑Thu Mar 22, 2018 3:17 am next time you change the oil, bin the 20W50 and put in 15W40
I'll bet you she'll run cooler

You right Tony, not sure what is in it at this moment, and as I may not take it out, I will be filling with 15 W 40 diesel oil on the next oil change due to the small tolerances on the new motor.

Herman

Just a short extract off the Hot Rod mag,

For a dual-purpose car, engine oil needs to be at least 104 C degrees to burn off all the deposits and accumulated water vapor. For every pound of fuel burned in an engine, the combustion process also generates a pound of water! If engine sump temperatures rarely exceed 100 degrees C (water’s boiling point), the water will mix with sulfur (another combustion by-product) and create acids that can eventually damage bearings.

hot oil make more power in most engines. Cold engine oil causes excessive frictional drag on the bearings and cylinder walls. A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures of up to 120 degrees, but starts breaking down over135 degrees. The traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 110 and 125 degrees.

Just some info for the oil concerned guys.

Herman

Just an up date on the Fleetline, after doing the 1st 500km, and the 1st service and oil change.

When no a short 400Km road trip just to get her run in an to see if the cooling is working and the clearances are bedding in correctly.

Glad to report that the running temp is coming down as she loosens up and did not pass 100deg C at any point.

She is running very sweet, and will be OK for the Sani trip.

She passed roadworthy yesterday, was at their door when they opened up.

So with all paperwork done, will get the number plates on her before Sani.

Was cutting it fine, but we managed to pull it off.

Only bad new's is that we still waiting for our fantastic Eastern Cape traffic department in Bisho, for the beetle papers........

So the Beetle will stay home, and when the papers come eventually, we will have to make a 2nd trip for her.

Well see at the TOP

Herman

Sounds ready for an A-frame again

Dont hold your breath with Bisho !

Haans

Good news Herman