Aircooled VW South Africa

Sorry for the poor quality pics, Whats wrong ?

Well the first thing that is wrong is that the motor is its not in the engine bay..
If I look at the fuel hose from the pump to the T-joint I would swop the supply hose with the hose leading to the left carb. My thinking is that supply runs into the T joint and then splits left and right it would supply an even pressure to the two carbs as opposed to the current setup.

Maybe you should tell us what the issues are...

Air filters, ugghhhh

vader wrote:Well the first thing that is wrong is that the motor is its not in the engine bay..
If I look at the fuel hose from the pump to the T-joint I would swop the supply hose with the hose leading to the left carb. My thinking is that supply runs into the T joint and then splits left and right it would supply an even pressure to the two carbs as opposed to the current setup.

Maybe you should tell us what the issues are...

T-joint - Noted.

Bratjie wrote:Air filters, ugghhhh

Whats wrong with my filters ?

1. You got the incorrect oil pressure switch fitted
2. Theres no seal where your spark plug lead enters through the cooling tin.
3. The original clips to hold your spark plug leads in place are missing, air will escape out those existing holes.

Nice job Splitz....

If I was you, I would get the bridge fuel pipe that goes to the other carb, down from there and run it at the bottom below the fan, you do not want it come loose and get sucked in to the fan. ..
Cable tie it down with the others at the bottom. will be safer there.

Slowdown, now, you will be done with your 56 before me with my 56.....



Herman

sean wrote:1. You got the incorrect oil pressure switch fitted
2. Theres no seal where your spark plug lead enters through the cooling tin.
3. The original clips to hold your spark plug leads in place are missing, air will escape out those existing holes.

1. whats the difference between the switches?
2. huh? what does that look like?
3. the ones on the fanhousing?

I got reverse on the gearbox. Didnt do a thing, got in the kombi Saturday and all gears were there including reverse. Asked my father and he swears he didnt touch a thing since we got the gearbox in two weeks ago. I did however forget to lock the garage, it was open for two weeks with wheels and everything free for the taking.Maybe someone came in and fixed it.

retrovan wrote:Nice job Splitz....

If I was you, I would get the bridge fuel pipe that goes to the other carb, down from there and run it at the bottom below the fan, you do not want it come loose and get sucked in to the fan. ..
Cable tie it down with the others at the bottom. will be safer there.

Slow down, now, you will be done with your 56 before me with my 56.....


Herman

Will look into that...
Its not for the 56, but for the split. 56 has been untouched in ages. Need to get the kombi running and finished before going on with the 56.

Splitz wrote:

sean wrote:1. You got the incorrect oil pressure switch fitted
2. Theres no seal where your spark plug lead enters through the cooling tin.
3. The original clips to hold your spark plug leads in place are missing, air will escape out those existing holes.

1. whats the difference between the switches?
2. huh? what does that look like?
3. the ones on the fanhousing?

1. That's one of those Midas switches for a golf, thread is not exactly the same which leads to damaging your engine casing. The switch pressure rating is also incorrect for an air-cooled motor.

2. Its a simple round seal that's attached to your leads, it prevents air from escaping around the the whole in the tinware. I dont know if you can buy them loose, but if you buy a new set of leads the come fitted standard. It is absolutely vital that these are fitted.

3. Yes, I think there's three of them.

The air filter housings need to be switched around so as not to have such a long breather pipe.

calooker wrote:The air filter housings need to be switched around so as not to have such a long breather pipe.

How much of a difference would that make ?, I ran the pipes at the back to try and neaten up the front a bit.

You have 2 RHS air filters , should be 1 left & 1 right, as you should only have the breather on 1 filter housing, the one closest to the oil filler thenn you will have a short pipe, nice and neat & effective vac. the loger the breather pipe the less efficient.

Ahh ok so I can just blank off the breather pipe on the filter on the coil side?

Splitz wrote:Ahh ok so I can just blank off the breather pipe on the filter on the coil side?

Yes

I would re-route thr vac. pipe from the dizzy can to the carb, make it shorter, again the longer the less efficient.

Agree with calooker, just run the one breather pipe. blank off the one on the other side air filter so you dont get air bypassing the filter through the open hole.

Your fuel line looks ok except I prefer the feed line coming in and splitting 90 degrees left and right instead of coming in and having a straight through to the one carb and a 90 degree split to the other. But yours will still work. Like I said, I just prefer it that way. And because the pump can supply more fuel than the carbs can use (and hence the float valves) and the flow is so small compared to line diameter(Negligible friction losses), You don't need to stress too much about uneven line lengths. I ran with similar length pipes on my car with no problems.

Other wise it looks good, I would not change much. Just also check that there is nothing around the centre actuator (like pipes and cables) that could cause it to jam or wear through something.

And ya, as mentioned maybe get the rubber plugs to seal around the spark plugs.

So nothing major wrong that I can see... and I am very familiar with the SP setup. have you made sure the Jets in the carbs are correct?