deleted thread.

[acpaterson]

deleted thread.

[retrovan]

Not knowing the history of your car, I would put down a 2nd notion.

I think the PO guy, had striped the car to do repairs to it, and then notices all the work still on the "To Do" list.

Then decides to sell, but knows he will not get anything for a stripped project, he slaps it together, as fast, and with the least of effort, as its being sold, then gets you to buy it.

I too have bought a car in this condition, (noticed after I had it), and had to strip and fully rebuild it.

The is the nature of the beast. sad to say.

Herman

[Tony Z]

there are many people like that out there....
I got into it when two workshops who I thought I trusted tried to scam me by changing certain things, which made the vehicle underpowered or just not drive properly. After getting a manual I found the problems and have never let a mechanic touch my car since.
The result from this and many other disappointments? I know what I want and if I do a job for someone else, I give them exactly that.

Keep at it. Things will come right.
But also remember, if you buy items second hand that have been taken off a non-working car or sold on someone else's behalf then you might get a gem or a dud. Its a chance you take. Most people are hopefully honest enough to tell you that it doesnt work, but sometimes, if it sits for too long, then what worked when the engine died, doesnt work anymore just because it stood for too long and things have perished....

[sean]

The only idiot I see here is a person who didn't inspect a car before buying it. Honestly, you should know there are dishonest people in this world. 95% of the old VW's in this country are stuffed.

Accept that you took a gamble and it didn't pay off. Live with it.

[Barry]

Hi Alan, aside from the rest of the debate, I'm interested in this part:

....... most of them were smoking their socks, wanting 150 000 for a car, etc......

Did you look at the R150000 car? He may very well have been taking the piss, but if it was a fully sorted car then that may not have been such a bad buy....

Fact is as Sean says, most old cars are stuffed. If you get lucky you'll find something worn but unmolested. Finding something where quality work has been done all the way through is even tougher. It's a Catch-22: most old or custom cars are sh!t hence low price expectations, which mitigate against anyone spending the money and time to do them right......

[acpaterson]

The only idiot I see here is a person who didn't inspect a car before buying it. Honestly, you should know there are dishonest people in this world. 95% of the old VW's in this country are stuffed.

Accept that you took a gamble and it didn't pay off. Live with it.

Hey Sean, the topic of discussion was if anyone else has ever encountered a similar situation.. Your 2 recent posts are REALLY constructive and informative.. Calling ME an idiot is really brave behind a keyboard for sure.. For your information, Mr Accountant, I HAVE accepted it, and am pleased I bought it. Why don't you rather CONTRIBUTE on the forum as they're meant to be, and stop with the personal attacks.

[acpaterson]

Howzit Barry,

Hope Sean isn't one of your buddies..
Listen, I'm well aware of "old".. I'm not afraid of old. My questioning was based on the fact that a Garage could possibly be leaving things un-attended on purpose, to generate further income from un-knowing members of the public.. Ignore the fact this is very dangerous and could have life threatening consequences, there's still a mechanical element to nuts and bolts.. Old would insinuate they are tight and bound, not flapping loose in their locations.

Alan.

[hitlers revenge]

2 * +/- 1000 posts against 93 (From 2 people that are regarded as "brainy" in the VW body and mechanical field)



Sorry Alan since becoming a member here, all you've done is bitch.

Get to know everybody, the Cape Town scene and suppliers first before any more moaning.

My 5c.

[Dawie]

From one of your threads i remember you mentioned that the fuel pump was loose. Well, it should'nt be "loose", but neither should it be too tight.

If the two 13mm nuts are too tight, the bakelite spacer/operating rod guide will compress. Then, especially when hot, it may squeeze the rod, preventing it to go down. Then pump stops doing it's thing. This i know from personal experience. I use nyloc nuts for those 2, and low torque. Other nuts to be very careful of are the oil strainer nuts. (The 6 small ones on a type 1 engine, and especially the one nut in a type 4 application). Often these end up too tight if serviced by inexperienced people.

Other nuts, like the axle and flywheel ones, as others mentioned, simply have to be tight...

[jolas]

" Mr Accountant " !!!

[splitbusahollic]

" Mr Accountant " !!!

i think Sean should stop welding and grinding on his projects and stick to doing the books !!

[Muderick]

Shit ...what did I miss here...?

Come on...give it up guys?

[acpaterson]

From one of your threads i remember you mentioned that the fuel pump was loose. Well, it should'nt be "loose", but neither should it be too tight.

If the two 13mm nuts are too tight, the bakelite spacer/operating rod guide will compress. Then, especially when hot, it may squeeze the rod, preventing it to go down. Then pump stops doing it's thing. This i know from personal experience. I use nyloc nuts for those 2, and low torque. Other nuts to be very careful of are the oil strainer nuts. (The 6 small ones on a type 1 engine, and especially the one nut in a type 4 application). Often these end up too tight if serviced by inexperienced people.

Other nuts, like the axle and flywheel ones, as others mentioned, simply have to be tight...

Hi Dawie,

Let mew put it to you this way, when I mean loose, I mean the bolts' were loose that I could wedge a flat screw-driver under it.. Wheel nuts are tight, and split pins in, all good.. working well, idling great, no flat spots.