2000 L problems

Pala Piet · Post by **Pala Piet** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 3:46 pm

Hi all
I have a 1974 Kombi, 2000l, just had a service, and the starter packed up, and I replaced it. Now it is puffing, I mean, it sounds like the odd little backfire? Mech who serviced says he does not know, but it loses power on hills, and the mech reckons number 1 piston has no compression.
Are there any mods to do on this that are not too costly. The little bus is very heavy on fuel, has the two carbs.
I was considering a mod to a Golf motor, but at what cost?
Another consideration is a diesel motor?
I heard of a manifold that you could stick in, and put a single carb on, but are any of these mods worth my while.
Is there anybody out there with some advice for me, pleeeze?
PS I also have two Beetles, both are leaking oil like crazy. A guy told me that the pushrod tube is cracked, and you get a tube that is springloaded and easy to fit, where can I get those?

Merlin · Post by **Merlin** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 3:57 pm

Changing engine types is a hassle, usually a disappointment, and always a FU to the car.

Ive come across so many people who discard their cars or mod' them because Joe Corner Mechie CC hasn't a F'ing clue about how to fix AC engines.

If it worked before, then your mechie screwed up.

Correctly tuned twin carbs run well, and with nice driving, can be more fuel efficient than a single carb'.

Where in ZA are you?

I don't normally deal with Bay' mechies, so hopefully someone else here can recommend someone, but we need to know where you are.

Lastly, never skimp by going to cheapies. Go to someone who knows what they are doing and pay the price. It usually isn't crazy, and it's always worth it.
Cheers, N.

Post by **fig** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:04 pm

I'm sure IMPI will give you some useful advice when he sees this thread.

Re spring-loaded pushrod tubes, don't waste your money. It's not a huge job to remove the engine and strip it down enough to change pushrod tubes.

In any case, after a severe oil leak, you would want to have the engine out and stripped to a sub-assembly so you can clean it properly to avoid cooling problems when dust combines with oil on the engine to form concrete.

I suggest you buy a couple of books, starting with John Muir's "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive - A Manual of Step-By-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot" and learn how to take care of your ACVWs yourself. In the long run it will be cheaper and easier than giving your car to mechanics who have no clue how to keep an ACVW alive.

Pala Piet · Post by **Pala Piet** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 7:19 pm

Thanks for the advice guys, and to let you know, I live in Phalaborwa, way out of the way! We have the Kruger National Park, but I would not dream of taking the bus in there, she is too fussy to attemp run-ins with ellies!
We don't have reputable VW dealerships, no reputable mechs (Someone who knows a guy, who knows a guy who's cousin is good with VW's, you know?) My Kombi was with one of the 'reputable' mechs.
The wife uses the car for carting kids to and from her nursery school, and I am sick and tired of hearing the tale of woe every second day. I have even considered sticking one of the Beetle 1600's in the Kombi's arse!
The petrol price is killing me, the little bus only good for around 4,5 km/l after the service. (Plugs, points, filters, oil and tune=R1150, new starter R700, I fitted it, battery also stuffed according to mech, but one of the Beetle units are now doing service in the bus)
The bus struggles to reach 40k's in 2nd gear, but was not much better before. Runs out of steam on hills, and will all of a sudden get worse, like, does not want to go, then perks up and goes again.
I am fairly mechanically minded, and will attempt minor repairs, removing the engine will be beyond my capabilities.
I will order normal pushrod tubes, and was quoted around 5 hrs labour to fit them ('major job' I was told) I see the tubes are available at Volkspares or VW Trend?
That's about it for now, I would just like to see the bus go for a week without coughing and wheezing, and the wife giving me lip!

Merlin · Post by **Merlin** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 7:33 pm

Early Bay's came out with 1600s.

Your performance and consumption is definately not right.

Does the engine struggle when it's hot or cold, or both?

Batteries are always good to replace after a few years. They have a Lifespan.

Fitting new pushrods does necessitate removing the engine, etc. so it is a 'big' job.

He's not lieing about that.

Would you be prepared to travel to get your bus fixed?

I'm not sure how far Palaborwa is from most other major places?

N.

Post by **Tony Z** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 7:50 pm

honestly, buy the books, especially the "Heynes manual" and try to tackle the work yourself. Its really not hard to work on the bus and you'll soon see that that R1150 for a service will end up costing you R300 with good oil.

As for the problem... I need more info. It could be anything from incoreectly adjusted valves to a problem with the ignition system, to maybe even just poorly set timing.
Maybe as a first measure, buy yourself a decent timing light and check your timing, also get some feeler gauges and check the points (maybe you have an electronic dizzy, then you wont need to do this).
As time goes on, you will save a lot of cash by doing simple engine tuning yourself and you will know what is going on with the engine, not just listening to some "beetle specialist"

Post by **eben** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 8:46 am

Merlin wrote: Fitting new pushrods does necessitate removing the engine, etc. so it is a 'big' job. He's not lieing about that.

N.

If its a 2l engine this is not a big job. The pushrod tubes can be replaced by just removing the valve covers and rockers. The heads do NOT need to be removed and neither does the engine need to be taken out... At the same time you have the oppertunity to adjust the valve clearance and check for valve inserts, which could be the source of your hissing/puffing problems..... entire excersize should take no longer than a couple of hours.

PS on the 2l you only need to replace the O-rings on either end of the pushrod tube unless the tube itself is cracked. There are two sizes of O-ring .. for the inner side and outter side of the tube.

Regards

Eben

Dawie · Post by **Dawie** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 10:01 pm

A friends 2L kombi had similar symptons. His mechanic could not find the fault. It was intermittently puffing,low in power and extremely thirsty.

Had a look and found that the one side of the engine was only lukewarm, with the other side at operating temperature.Took the aircleaner elbow off at the cooler side and the carb throat was very wet inside. Took the carb top off,the float was lying low in the fuel,it had a tiny hole and had some fuel inside.Replaced the float and it was running like a new one.

Check if the exhaust smoke is a black powdery colour or blue. If the exhaust is wet check if it is petrol or oil.

Dont forget to double check the valve clearances, it should be adjusted at least every 10 000 km,if it gets to small the valves will burn.Have heard from mechanics that they seldom adjust valves,(how will the owner know if they dit it they say). Some young mechanics dont even know how to do it,now that most new cars have hydraulic lifters. also double check ignition timing.

Hope you find the problem.
Dawie.

Pala Piet · Post by **Pala Piet** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 4:16 pm

Hi Guys

I have taken the bus to a mech (in our town) who does all repairs for Delta. He has the bus in the air, and I am eagerly awaiting his verdict. If this fails, I will heed all the advice you guys have so readily given me, and I will let you know.
When he heard the engine, he reckoned it sounded like the head was not fastened properly??
The smoke from the exhaust is pitch black, even at idle, you can smell the fuel that is not burning.
Anyway, I will keep you posted, and thanks again for all the good advice, the bus is going to run sweetly, come hell or high water!

camperman · Post by **camperman** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 4:16 pm

Hi Pala
I have an 1800 autovilla. Same engine only smaller. First of - do not expect these old guys to be fast. When they were new the speed limit was 100! That fuel consumption is very high - on mine the electric shut off valves on the left carb was not tightly screwed on the carb - causing air to be sucked and messing up the whole carb setup. Just check if those two are tight. Ask if you cant find them. Also solved the problem of my nr 3 cylinder not firing cause of fuel starvation. It is fine now. If these engines are tuned right they do perform well. Let me know if this helps you!

Post by **IMPI** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 7:15 pm

I agree with the previous posts
Also check all hoses to the brake booster for vac leaks. there are plenty vacuum hoses on the carbs and rubber elbos replace the lot. cant agree more about tappets (Iwould also get tom wilsons book how to rebuild vw engines. If that engine has more than 75000 km replace the exhaust valves.
Armand

Pala Piet · Post by **Pala Piet** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:26 pm

Hey guys, you are a clever lot! Guess what? Kombi's number two cylinder has a burnt exhaust valve, and the mech reckons the reason is that the valve clearance was too small. I have a little restored faith in some mechs, but will still be waiting to see what the bus does when repaired. I will also personally check all the things y'all suggested, and see how frugal the bus can become!
Thanks again for your great suggestions, and I will let you know about the bus.
PS I didn't see a brake booster on the bus, I replaced a master cylinder recently and seriously there is no brake booster?
Piet

Merlin · Post by **Merlin** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:41 pm

I can't speak for Bay's, but I know the splits never had boosters.

Post by **fig** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:57 pm

Only disc-brake buses had boosters, ie, 71 onwards. As far as I know, all disc-brake buses had boosters.

Given the general standard of SA mechanics and the tight-fistedness of most drivers of old cars, it wouldn't surprise me if your booster had been removed (instead of replaced) when it was faulty some time in the past. The only real change will be the need to apply much more leg muscle to your braking, like stopping a split bus.

doug77 · Post by **doug77** » Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:53 am

Hi guys

Camperman are the cutoffs you mention the one in this pic ?

labelled as "idle circuit cutoff" and "Pilot cutoff" the whole article (excellent) on adjusting 34 PDSIT 2/3 carbs by Richard Atwell can be found here

Most articles on adjusting carbs without pictures just make me dizzy.

I haven't the guts to pull my carbs off ... it's not running too bad .. but it's not right.

The other comment was to do with replacement carb and i can't remember where i got the hint from but it went along the lines of one night on the net - got tip about single pierburg carb and the next day there was one for sale in the junkmail (with manifold and air filter holder)-it stood out like a saw thumb. so i grabbed it (not the thumb) for R150 (plus travelling to Queensburgh) If you want I can get the info from it lying in the garage. It's lying there in case of emergency type of thing.