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Hi guys,
Simple question for the technical guys. If you need a motor rebuild, who would you use to do the job, and for what reason?
Stock 1600 twin port in a Kombi.
I have a new lower ratio gearbox fitted with new sideshafts, but motor is smoking more than it should, and is generally "pap", and sounds kak, no other word for it.
Oh, Cape Town based as well. I don't want to add to the costs by couriering stuff around the Country, and want local support for down the line issues.
I am not wanting a 2.1 0 to 100 in 5 seconds motor, I'm wanting something that can run good, does not struggle uphill, or smoking, and importantly, doesn't leak?
My first Kombi motor was rebuilt by Grandslam Auto, that was about 4 years and a few thousand km ago - there has been no problems (apart from a puff of smoke at start up) and it has travelled far and wide and it still works hard. Due to a rag sucked into the fan shroud it overheated recently and needed work. I think it needed a valve replacement, this was done by Johan Smithof in Joostenberg Vlakte - 021 9882443. It is smoking terribly now and using oil and the time has come for some action there ......
Due to distance issues I don't use Grandslam anymore, but still have a good relationship and buy spares, etc from them.
Smithof has rebuilt a handful of motors over the years for various Kombis for me, one of which has taken me to Durban, Bloem, PTA, Limpopo, etc. a few times, and on many other long distance trips. There have been no serious issues.
Andreno in Villiersdorp - I'm currently using one of their single port rebuilds in an early bay, this is running really nicely. An 1100 rebuild has been a bit of a dissappointment. But it has taken me to George and is still running in the '59 bus. I'm gradually swopping and replacing coil, distributor, etc, etc in a effort to find out the cause of it getting hot - perhaps something else is causing the issue.
But I've heard stories from other volks about the same companies, other engine builders, better and worse. Some volks will swear never to go near xyz company(s) ever again. It's becoming more and more difficult as spares become more useless in quality, availability, old time engine machinists and rebuilders retiring, and getting fed up (they have to deal with sh*t quality parts, horrid prices, customers who expect too much from 50 year old metal and working parts, etc, etc). It is quite worrying actually ........
It is also quite amazing how the ancillary parts can negatively affect the performance of a motor - bad leads, distributor, incorrectly set or worn out carb, timing, points. The quality of the parts added on to your newly rebuilt sub assembly are critical to optimum performance, I have seen this time and time again (the last example prior to my recent Durban trip was swopping the gear in the shaft under the distributor - Sean detected a problem while helping me with the timing before I left).
As far as performance goes for my 1600 twin ports - I am happy at 90km/h when "cruising", it will go faster with no problem when it must overtake a truck or whatever. But they ALL have an issue, one still "smokes" now and then, the other "clatters" away when idling, the other feels a bit too hot for my liking, the other drips a bit of oil, it never really ends man .......
I hate to say it, but there also seems to be a bit of "luck" involved - iether with the block used, the machinist, the rebuilder and so on - some motors will just never be "right"
This is my experience over the years, my 2c worth - I'm not technically inclined at all and rely on my intuition, past experiences, etc, etc. I would still use the above service providers, I would like to try Tony Z one day, even Armand, Dave Rowley, etc, etc. But it will depend on the motor, distance, courier, type of project, and so on ....
by fig » Mar 26, 2018
Sambas in South Africa are good for only 2 things: showing off and sunburn.
I agree with all your sentiments. I have spoken to Tony and I trust him entirely, he's done work on my Porsche heads. problem is this isn't his full time job, and time is not on his side. Same for Dave R.. After his arm recovery, he's even struggling to attend to his own bus because of client backdates. So these guys are just BUSY, full stop.
I'll fire off an email and see what feedback I get, and will then weigh up my options. I'm really pleased with how my Bus has turned out, and we're "sort of" starting to use it, but, now spent a month in a workshop, and it didn't REALLY solve the problem. But at least he's usable for now.
Hope to see you guys at the Newlands Forest gettogether.
The thing about VW Aircooled motors is that you should be technically minded.
Why I say that is that the aircooled is not noise-less like a water cooled.
The engine will make noises, and you should be able to tell the good from the bad.
Arno at Andreno in Villiersdorp , did all my motors I have asked him to fit hydraulic valves in all of them, When standing for some time, and you start the engine, it sounds as if the pistons are having a free-for-all with the valves, and the main bearings are applauding.
But drive it a few kilos, and they settle down, and the engine purrs in it own way.
Two 2000 motors, one 1836, and a std 1600 that Dixon is still driving this day, all working fine, and pulling like any water cooled, in fact, my engine in my Fugly, will pull anyone at the robot, and stay at 120 KPH up all hills.
The Fugly tows my Teardrop where ever we go, my Fugly now has taken up the job of towing trailers since I sold my Isuzu 3 lt LX twin cab.Fastback towed Splitbusaholics thing down to George and back at full speed.
Carbs need to be set regularly, tappets as well, oil change, greasing of the joints in the car, points , dwell time, advance, spark plugs, v-belts..........
Yes the motor may sound like a bunch of skeletons having sex, in a old army trommel, fixed to a piece of corrugated sheet, towed behind a train, BUT THAT part of this wonderful engine, and that's why we love them.
OMO
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
SOMETIMES I KNOW WHY I LOG ONTO THIS FORUM.
WHAT A WONDERFUL EXPLANATION OF SOUND, EMITTED FROM AN AIRCOOLED ENGINE, JUST PROVIDED BY HERMAN. YOU MISSED YOUR CALLING MAN. AN INSTANT SMILE TO START MY DAY! AND PAULIE......SPOT ON. SOMETIMES THE BUILD OR THE COMPONENTS ARE JUST CRUD.
GOOD LUCK ALAN.
I totally get it. Make no mistake, I'm VERY familiar with these motors and their varied sounds. I'm also well versed in maintaining them, (After some refresher info from Mr Zzz). The Porsche ran like clockwork, even-though it's motor was dripping a but..
Anyway, I've driven mine around this morning getting stuff done, and he's actually running pretty well for now. In a few months time I'll be doing a deal and we'll see how that runs once done. For now I'm cool, and thanks for the answers gentlemen..
Update. So have decided to go with Arno from Andreno. heading up there this evening, the sooner the better as I don't need the bus for this coming weekend, so, rather get it sorted now.
Going with an 1835 cc mill, with a balanced crank and Electronic Ignition. He's also going to see if this Gearbox ratio is suitable, or will change it for a different ratio, so, might have waster a few grand now, but I think after this, Winston should be officially SORTED. I might add a pair of "Tony Z" heads in a few months time.
1835 kit is a thin wall kit. Bus engines have a tendency to run hot and these kits are known for deforming and causing blowby when they get too hot.
If you are definitely going big bore, I'd ask him for a 1776 kit instead as they are thicker and last longer.
Google is your friend
As Tony mentioned, stay away from the thin wall sleeves.
Seeing that you have a late bay, best option by far would be to go the type 4 route. Your engine compartment should be ready to accept a type 4's sealing tinware. If you plan to keep the 1600 gearbox, stay with the 1700 or 1800 type 4, dont go 2L.
Type 4 engines have much larger cooling fin surface area, larger oil cooler, oil filter as standard, and strong aluminium case. Spacing between bores were increased, leaving more space for cooling fins on the barrels. Type 4's cooling fan, even at crankshaft speed, pumps significantly more air than type 1 fan. Vw did provide specs about cooling airflow.
By the way, i recall that, back in the day, Okrasa did a special type 1 bus engine. For reliability reasons, they increased the stroke and stayed with 1600 size bore. Their reasoning was that doing so did not increase the combustion chamber's surface area which is in contact with hot gases. Cooling fin surface area and wall thickness of barrels remained good. Remember that outer diameter of barrels are limited by distance between them, and existing cooling tinware around them. Thus: Biggest available space for barrel thickness/cooling fins are on 77mm 1300 units. As bore increases, available space for cooling fin size and/or wall thickness decreases due to obvious reasons.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Wow. THAT was a workshop and a half.. For any of you that have been up to Arno at Andreno, I was flabbergasted at the cars he has there, and the amount of engines and gearboxes!!! And such a welcoming and open chap. After a VERY slow climb up Franschoek Pass, we got there safe and sound, old Winston's still purring along.. Arno pushed the Flywheel and said endplay and no compression. And then showed me all the bits and bobs, and machining he does, and a real 356, and an Original Splittie, and a prototype Oval, and a Spyder, a Puma, a Dino replica, Karman, Notch, fastback, Synchro's and autovillas, Bay's by the handful, and plenty more.. Holy Smokes...!!!!
He also showed me the machining process done on the heads, that I could see a room full of them. Cranks perfectly round-counter weighted and balanced, Piston kits and barrel kits, the list is endless. The manner in which he does engine builds is clearly very different from the rest, and not having to advertise, and yet ONLY getting business by word of mouth, and having a FULL workshop and courtyard speaks volumes for the quality of work from these guys. I doubt there's one piece of Empi crap anywhere in that workshop.
So, I think Winston will be 110% fine once completed (THIS WEEK), according to Arno. thats 4 working days to build finished an 1835 cc motor, pull out and fit the new Motor Gearbox fix up (Ratio) and possibly a better exhaust rear end.. I'm excited, that's about all I can say right now.
Yes, Been there, saw that, and I too have all my engines done by him.
I can do my own motors, but when you see that, you think.....WHY !
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
Yip, my sentiments exactly..
Clearly this man and his Dad are VERY well versed in this industry. The machining and new Valve seats and headwork I saw was astounding. I'm pretty sure Winston's going be perfect once finished. Just the trip up and back was a long and at night, not too safe. Hopefully all ready by this weekend tho.
