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So the time has come for me to replace my fuel pump. The guy at my local Goldwagen recommended the fuel pump in the pictures attached. Also attached is a pic of the pump that needs replacing. Just need some advice on whether the replacement fuel pump will be appropriate?
" Don't gain the world and lose your soul...Wisdom is better than silver or gold " - Bob Marley
Is your existing fuel pump faulty? Looks like the circlip became unstuck and the little shaft slided out. Maybe fixable?
I see an alternator and matching angled late model fuel pump in your top picture. Late pump is angled to provide more clearance next to the alternator. It also uses a different length operating rod.
Bottom picture shows what looks like an early non-angled pump. Which would have worked if you still had the original generator setup.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Existing fuel pump is faulty as per my knowledge ( which is somewhat limited ).....engine swings, coil is good, points are good, just not starting. Please could you shed a little more light on the "circlip becoming unstuck" and i did notice that little shaft on the side of the fuel pump thats no longer there. Is it possible to just get a replacement shaft and slide it in? Please excuse my ignorance.
" Don't gain the world and lose your soul...Wisdom is better than silver or gold " - Bob Marley
The shaft contains and controls the lever which pushes the diaphragm. No shaft, no pumping.
Depending on the style of the pump, you can sometimes run a genny pump with an alternator setup, with minor clearance. You may need to swap the rod out.
The problem you've experienced is common. The shafts should always be peened against the housing.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear. Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Near the pump's 13mm mounting nut you see a little hole. That is where part of the shaft should protrude, with someting preventing it from sliding inwards. Feel on the other side of pump if shaft has pushed through.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
So ive just changed the fuel pump with the correct one ( see pic attached ) and the engine does the same thing it did before the new pump. Just swings and swings. Not starting at all. Am i doing something wrong?
" Don't gain the world and lose your soul...Wisdom is better than silver or gold " - Bob Marley
To test, loosen fuel pipe at carb. Hold pipe over some container to catch fuel. Remove wire from points at coil to disable spark.
Turn key if you have someone available to assist.
Otherwise, (what i do):
Loosen the two 13mm fuel pump nuts. Put in neutral and turn engine untill fuel pump's operating rod pushes the pump upwards to its highest point and stop turning when rod start moving down again.
Now manually push pump down and up, (which will work the lever to operate pump). Fuel should exit into container.
Alternatively one could remove pump from studs and simply operate lever by hand, while still connected to pipes.
This is also a good way to prime the carb's floatbowl if empty.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Dawie wrote: Sat Aug 04, 2018 3:28 pm
To test, loosen fuel pipe at carb. Hold pipe over some container to catch fuel. Remove wire from points at coil to disable spark.
Turn key if you have someone available to assist.
Otherwise, (what i do):
Loosen the two 13mm fuel pump nuts. Put in neutral and turn engine untill fuel pump's operating rod pushes the pump upwards to its highest point and stop turning when rod start moving down again.
Now manually push pump down and up, (which will work the lever to operate pump). Fuel should exit into container.
Alternatively one could remove pump from studs and simply operate lever by hand, while still connected to pipes.
This is also a good way to prime the carb's floatbowl if empty.
I will try that and let you know what happens. Thanks appreciate the advice.
" Don't gain the world and lose your soul...Wisdom is better than silver or gold " - Bob Marley
You will need to bleed the pump, to get the air out.
Suck on the carb side pipe with a long hose till the fuel comes through.
With air in the pump, it will not work.
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
retrovan wrote: Mon Aug 06, 2018 10:18 am
Suck on the carb side pipe with a long hose till the fuel comes through.
Herman
I once saw a guy take a good mouthful of petrol doing this, so I wouldn't do this. If you fill the float bowl manually via the top of the carb, there would be enough fuel for the engine to run while the air in the system is bled through the carb.
retrovan wrote: Mon Aug 06, 2018 10:18 am
Suck on the carb side pipe with a long hose till the fuel comes through.
Herman
I once saw a guy take a good mouthful of petrol doing this, so I wouldn't do this. If you fill the float bowl manually via the top of the carb, there would be enough fuel for the engine to run while the air in the system is bled through the carb.
Opens the sinuses,no big deal, have had that happen a lot, that's why I said long pipe......
With a dry new pump, it sometimes will not bleed by running the engine, and needs to be internal wet 1st.
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
Havent got a chance to get to the issue yet but thanks for the advice guys. I will try to get some fuel in the carb first before i try sucking on the carb pipe haha
" Don't gain the world and lose your soul...Wisdom is better than silver or gold " - Bob Marley
