BEE the beetle project

[freddiebooysen]

So finally starting to work on BEE a bit



One of the twins got their license so I need to get a move on

Had a leaky carb and the arms were so worn that it needed to be replaced

Thanks to Mark and his Milo tin I managed to get a much better Solex 34 pict 3 in there with a new kit



Guess what the carb is still leaking a drip every now and then.

Replaced tubes but still leaking
New carb kit in still leaking

Leaking ends up on the accelerator cable end and drops exactly on the points electrical connection on the distributor.

This can be catastrophic.

My driveway is at a slight angle and was wondering if this could be the cause of the problem.

I have not checked parking it level of the problem persists since she is not driving at the moment I cannot move her and there are a few cars behind her that needs to be moved which is also not driving so that will be a Saturday project just to get her out of there.

My question here is has anybody else had the problem with the beetle standing at an angle and having that leak ? Or is there something else I need to check?

BEE also has a Golf electronic ignition system in there which I have found out the curve is not 100% and she has a poep or two when she gets into the higher refs

Have managed to get a newish dizzy in there one that was used for a week apparently bought originally from Volkspares



Will run it for now on points and condenser just to have her running and will keep a couple of extra sets just in case.

Money is not permitting an electronic ignition upgrade at the moment.





[emoji1221]

[73type2]

Your carb shouldn't leak even if your driveway is at a slight angle - you've checked that all gaskets are installed properly? All connections tight? All surfaces mating properly? Perhaps a worn throttle shaft? Perhaps obvious things, but worth a double check. I've seen a guy who's been rebuilding carbs for more than thirty years work a bit of rubber grease into paper gaskets before installing. He says it helps especially for surfaces that are not exactly flat after many years of use.

[Henris]

If you are on an angle and the carb is leaking, the float level is way to high. Or the needle and seat is seeping.

[freddiebooysen]

I also suspect float level.

Have found a temp solution......

Parked it downhill instead of uphill and no leaks.

Have checked all the gaskets all looking 100% nothing strange so will add a washer to the needle and seat and see what happens



[emoji1221]

[Tony Z]

Parked it downhill instead of uphill and no leaks.

and now its running into the engine sump

[freddiebooysen]

and now its running into the engine sump

Tony was meant as a joke will fit extra washer and see tomorrow



[emoji1221]

[freddiebooysen]

Quick update
Added extra washer and whoop whoop looking a lot better

There is still a bit of moost but nothing as it was before.

Before it was almost dripping but a whole lot better now. Will leave it parked now for a bit and report back.

On another note she was fitted with electronic ignition from a golf before and was poepping and popping like crazy especially on the higher refs.

Got a standard dizzy and adjusted timing. Damn what a mission

Could not get her to idle properly checked carb then back to timing. Did the static timing light thing and still she simply does not have constant idling

Replaced petrol filter.
Changed some suspicious fuel line.
Changed points
Adjusted points

Eventually after about two days of struggling with this ended up scratching in my parts box and found an old coil on one of the fan shrouds that has been laying around for about a year or two

Fitted Coil and everything just fell into place

Adjusted timing and got the idling sorted.

Everybody excepts the three four legged ones took BEE for a test drive.

Whoop whoop still lots and lots to learn but a victory nonetheless.





[emoji1221]

[freddiebooysen]

Ok Guys so managing to get BEE Running has been a mission but having done some compression tests it is looking rather poor

Will get her going nonetheless.

So here goes thinking of rebuilding the engine and knowing what i have in her will be a much better idea will go through some books and decide what to do

My idea is to start to get parts for the rebuild together without having to spend a R 18 K all at once
My idea is to buy parts every month or two or six as and when money is available and putting some away for engineering and just nurse her along until i have everything that i need
I do understand that some parts i will not be able to get until the machinng is done so i know what sizes to buy etc.

Having not ever rebuild an engine ever acan anybody maybe help with a list of items i need to get and possible suppliers that i can contact to get them from

I have looked at CB Performance's Website and man at $ 3500 it is getting steep but i guess that includes a lot of items for building a complete engine with block etc

The 1904 looks like quite a popular Fuel Saver Option but i will be happy with just doing a standard rebuild without all the extra extras. Just want a reliable good running motor and not to phased about high performance etc.

I am going in the right direction here or is this a not a good idea

[retrovan]

Why not give Arno in Villiersdorp a call and get a sub assembly.

Then transfer your parts and have a good running motor with assurance it correct and still having done some work your self.

His number is 0two884zero2zero87

Good luck

Herman

[Tony Z]

if you arent concerned about performance, then stock is the way to go to keep costs down. Plus, if done right, stock can be made to produce a nice little power increase without affecting longevity, say 15hp more.

[freddiebooysen]

Thanks RetroVan and TonyZ
Is there anything i can start to invest in so long while i nurse her along until i have all the parts or is it a case of only knowing what to get once i have done the engineering ?

[Tony Z]

new barrels and pistons, pushrod tubes, redone heads, clutch kit, exhaust, carbs....