Flywheel removal

camperman · Post by **camperman** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 9:26 am

If I remove the flywheel on my beetle to replace the crank seal should I mess around with the end-play setting or rather leave well enough alone?

Post by **calooker** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 1:09 pm

If it aint broke don't fix it that is how I see it. If the seal has been leaking then yes I would replace it, before you strip the flyweel off check the endlpay, it should be between .07mm & .15mm if the motor has more it can be reshimed to get it to epec., if it is in spec then you can just put the FW back. If you have a later motor & FW you also need to change the O-ring in the flywheel, torque it down like there is no tomorrow, or it will come loose.

4agedub · Post by **4agedub** » Wed Feb 08, 2006 4:07 pm

Just make sure you retighten the flywheel nut again properly...

Post by **IMPI** » Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:23 pm

Once the flywheel is off and the old seal removed:
hold a finger on to the exposed part of the rear main bearing and get a mate to tug and shove the front pulley if you can feel the bearing move in the block you wont be able to cure that leak sometimes the bearing can be moved sideways using a flatbladed screwdriver between it and the block (be gentle)
if the bearing is loose dont go changing shims because you might ruin it in a hurry.
If all is well inspect the flywheel sealing surface for nicks or scoring have it polished by a machine shop to restore the surface.
check for cracks in the casing
Above all else the 300ftpound torquesetting is MOER VAS and use loctite
Gland nut loose instant junk!!!!!!!!!!!
Some people swear by red oil seals I am not convinced!
Armand
Armand