Keys and paperwork...

[Merlin]

Hmmm, who can advise?

My new acquisition was purchased a few years before I got it, but the guy defaulted on his payments and disappeared...along with the F'ing keys and paperwork!

1. I have NO keys for anything on my ride.

Like a German bus, is it possible to get the codes from somewhere on these locks and send them overseas to have keys cut? If so, where do I find these codes, and if not, what's suggested? Purchase from Brazil?

2. The PO has no idea whether the ride is in his name or the defaulters, but we presume the defaulter.

There is no way of finding this dodgey.

It has been less than 10 years, so afaik, it should in that case, still be on the system. I asked the PO if he could go to Licensing to get a copy of the papers, but they want him to go to Mafikeng or some BS place like that! WtF? That's MILES away from him.

Any ideas on how to solve this?

Thanks, N.

[Pine]

Try this:

Unlocking the Mystery of VW Locks
by Dave Hall (1997)

All the VW door lock barrels are similar, but their overall size differs, as does the profile of the key (the grooves along its length). This changed from time to time, to increase the possible number of key combinations. For key profiles read the August 1997 Wolfsburg Wired from Wolfsburg West.

The barrel contains 8 pieces of brass with slots, called tumblers (9 in the ignition switch barrel) and 8 (or 9) tiny springs to push them out.

Each tumbler has 0, 1, 2 or 3 notches on its end, which is a code telling you how long the cut out slot is (matching 1,2,3 and 4 in the picture). The right key pulls in all the tumblers flush with the barrel, but the wrong key leaves some or all sticking out a bit, which prevents the barrel turning. Check the diagram (from official manuals, thanks VW!) carefully, to see how the key shape matches the tumbler slots.

This is the key (sorry!) to changing the tumblers to match your other locks. Door locks are easy, and you can pull apart old barrels to get the right tumblers. According to VW, ignition and tail-gate barrels cannot be standardised. The latter are pinned in place and could be damaged by removal, I guess, but I'll try it one day!

If you need a key cut, your (long-established) VW dealer may have the code books to tell him what shape your key is from the number on the lock (stamped on the handle mechanism). Mine can do it, but maybe I'm lucky! If you change the barrel, paint out the old one and mark on the new number!

Door-lock Overhaul
from an article by Austin Blackburn, written in 1988

Having been locked out, and finding how easily I could get into my locked Fastback using my neighbour's VW key, I decided to overhaul my locks. The sequence of operations are:-

Remove the door handle (one screw on mine, behind the door sealing rubber)
Put the key in the lock to stop the tumblers falling out
Remove the countersunk screw from the lock operating lever, and pull it off
Remove the lock cylinder from the handle; take care of the plastic sealing ring
Next inspect the machined hole the cylinder rotates in. Each side there should be a groove that the tumblers locate in when the key is removed. (On my handles there were deep grooves, indicating that the tumblers had been forced round in the vehicle's previous life). As there is no way to repair this damage, I was fortunate enough to find two new handles at VW Action, but good second-hand ones would suffice.

The next problem I tackled was the lock cylinders themselves. Before removing the key, I cleaned up the exterior of the cylinder and made a note of the order of the tumblers. There are four different types, marked blank (no markings), I, II or III. Now having this information, I removed the key to allow the tumblers to fall out - they didn't, much to my surprise. The hang-up turned out to be simply the amount of grease and dirt on them. I removed each tumbler and spring, and washed them in methylated spirits, along with the barrel itself.

Upon re-assembly, I stretched all the springs slightly, to make them a tighter fit in the handle. No oil or grease was used in the assembly as locks operate best without them. A dry lubricant such as graphite or molybdenum disulphide should be used.

With this carried out the vehicle is now as secure as when it was new, at a minimal cost. Mind you, I am being very careful not to get locked out again.

Austin Blackburn (1988)

[fig]

Your best bet with the papers is to get the current registered owner to get duplicates. Only the current registered owner can do this. Even if you have to drive him to Mafikeng it will be the easiest way to resolve the paperwork issues. Also, if the car was registered in potch, he can get the papers in Potch. The Mafikeng story sounds like BS dispensed with the object of avoiding work.

Re the locks, remove all the locks or lock barrels and take them to Randburg locksmiths to have keys made up.

Or, if you are really patient, acquire blanks for the various locks, then blacken them in a candle flame and insert in lock and turn; file away where the black is rubbed off, then repeat until your key turns the lock.

And, in the meantime, I can show you how to hotwire a Fleetline with a bulldog clip.

[Pine]

Even if you have to drive him to Mafikeng it will be the easiest way to resolve the paperwork issues. Also, if the car was registered in potch, he can get the papers in Potch. The Mafikeng story sounds like BS dispensed with the object of avoiding work.

IMPI had the same problems in Orkney

[Merlin]

Your best bet with the papers is to get the current registered owner to get duplicates. Only the current registered owner can do this. Even if you have to drive him to Mafikeng it will be the easiest way to resolve the paperwork issues. Also, if the car was registered in potch, he can get the papers in Potch. The Mafikeng story sounds like BS dispensed with the object of avoiding work.

Re the locks, remove all the locks or lock barrels and take them to Randburg locksmiths to have keys made up.

Or, if you are really patient, acquire blanks for the various locks, then blacken them in a candle flame and insert in lock and turn; file away where the black is rubbed off, then repeat until your key turns the lock.

And, in the meantime, I can show you how to hotwire a Fleetline with a bulldog clip.

Not likely Fig. The PO is a stubborn old man who wouldn't even sign my title change form without checking ou the paperwork issue first. Apparently they did phone the Potch' dept, and they refered them to Mafikeng. Whatever.

I may have to resort to finding a 'friend' with a connection... *sigh* I'm not likely to get any more assistance from the PO. They don't even know the defaulters last name!

Where would I get blanks? Brazil?

May do the Randburg route as a stopgap.

*lmao* @ a bulldog clip...that makes me feel so safe leaving my bus at shops, etc. Thanks.

Thanks as well, Pine.

Cheers, N.

[Chris]

Afaik,you can get blanks from any locksmith.

[Merlin]

We recently needed a copy made of a key cut in Germany for the '66, and it took some SERIOUS searching to find a locksmith who did some SERIOUS searching to find a master that worked for it.

I'll do some investigations into blanks from Brazil, and Gemany. I don't have spares for any of my rides, and the Daily's locks are seriously worn out.

Will need to take some time out and go work on the rides...

N.