RUST REPAIR
-
Blitzkrieg
- ACVWSA Junkie
- Posts: 10784
- Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2007 10:41 am
- What model do you have?: none
- Location: Johannesburg
- Has thanked: 91 times
- Been thanked: 44 times
-
Eugene
- Carburettor
- Posts: 1794
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:30 am
- What model do you have?: 2 many 2 mention :-)
- Location: Brackenfell
- Has thanked: 59 times
- Been thanked: 65 times
Re: RUST REPAIR
Hi 65bug
What BB wanted to say, is that typing in uppercase(with caps lock on), is considered shouting.
What BB wanted to say, is that typing in uppercase(with caps lock on), is considered shouting.
-
Blitzkrieg
- ACVWSA Junkie
- Posts: 10784
- Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2007 10:41 am
- What model do you have?: none
- Location: Johannesburg
- Has thanked: 91 times
- Been thanked: 44 times
-
Barry
- Single Port
- Posts: 1254
- Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2007 9:02 am
- Location: Stellenbosch
- Been thanked: 12 times
Re: RUST REPAIR
Hi 65
What kind of rust are we talking here?
Sandblasting is one option, but not many guys can do it withou damaging (warping) the metal.
Wet abrasive blasting is better because the heat buils up is less, but poor technique can still cause damage - it is incredibly messy but if you search the ol tinternet you're sure to find someone tell you how to do it with a WAP
There is acid - hydrochloric works quicker, but eats good metal. Phosporic is better as it only affects the rust (converts it to iron phosphate which is inert)
You have to keep it wet though, and rinse and neutralise after. There are some phosporic based gel type products which are easier esp. on vertical surfaces.
There are also the chelate rust converters - might want to check compatibilty with your paint system.....
There is electrolytic rust removal (google it) works like a bomb, but you probably need to submerge the part (or car
)
Specialised chemical dipping.
Cut out all the bad metal and weld in new (my favourite!!)
It all depends on how bad it is, your skill/diy level, your budget..........??
Barry
What kind of rust are we talking here?
Sandblasting is one option, but not many guys can do it withou damaging (warping) the metal.
Wet abrasive blasting is better because the heat buils up is less, but poor technique can still cause damage - it is incredibly messy but if you search the ol tinternet you're sure to find someone tell you how to do it with a WAP
There is acid - hydrochloric works quicker, but eats good metal. Phosporic is better as it only affects the rust (converts it to iron phosphate which is inert)
You have to keep it wet though, and rinse and neutralise after. There are some phosporic based gel type products which are easier esp. on vertical surfaces.
There are also the chelate rust converters - might want to check compatibilty with your paint system.....
There is electrolytic rust removal (google it) works like a bomb, but you probably need to submerge the part (or car
)Specialised chemical dipping.
Cut out all the bad metal and weld in new (my favourite!!)
It all depends on how bad it is, your skill/diy level, your budget..........??
Barry
-
Blitzkrieg
- ACVWSA Junkie
- Posts: 10784
- Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2007 10:41 am
- What model do you have?: none
- Location: Johannesburg
- Has thanked: 91 times
- Been thanked: 44 times
-
65bug
- Oil Pump
- Posts: 238
- Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 12:05 pm
- What model do you have?: 1958 and 1965 Beetle
- Location: Delareyville
Re: RUST REPAIR
I need donor metal for my `65 front 1/4 panel below door hinge left and right can any one assist me pls.