A bus named Grace

[stew 89]

Cool Calooker. thanks for the advice. This was the cam (VW original) you drooped of at Volks engine change. I think they kept the good part and put crap back in...

I sent you a PM.

Thanks again

[stew 89]

Good day all you Vdub nuts!!! ok so here are a few picks of a follower that i pulled out of my motor. Warning what you are about to see my make you ill to your very core!



That little flake on the left is the top part that i found in the hole that is now on the top.... mmmmm looks good!

[Tony Z]

looks good - nothing some spit and polish wont cure

[stew 89]

Hello Guys.

Ye Tony Z nothing some wax and shine cant fix...

Just a Quick question for any one who knows. The new cam i have ordered comes without a Cam gear (this is normal). Now does any one know what would go into getting the the new cam grafted onto the old gear? Where i can get it done? or how much it will cost? Also if any one has pick of the process involved, not that ill try doing it my self, but rather so I have a better understanding of what goes into something like that... I like to learn.

Meny thanks

Stew

[stew 89]

Ladys and Gents... Grace is on the road.... We did 350 km over the weekend with out a hitch...just lots of rattles and squeaks

I will post picks as soon as have stopped driving long enough to take some.

Thanks to every one that gave advice and helped put her back the road.

Shot Stew

[stew 89]

Update: 5000km No problem! Thanks Rui and Jookie. Next sort the steering and the external oil cooler

[stew 89]

Hello every one.

Ok we toke the bus up to KKK this last weekend and she really sailed up with out any problems. most of the trip bake she was perfect. but by the time we vote back to Durbs there was a puff of blue smoke when changing gears. the puff was visible in my wing mirror. she also seems to be idling a little rough. It is my understanding that there are two ways for oil to burn in a cylinder (oil = blue smoke) 1 through valve guides. 2 past the piston rings. But given the relatively "new" rebuild motor I'm at a quandary as to which it my be. When we where between PMB and Durbs the air was very hot out side like 40s + Grace seemed to loose power o this stretch. could it be that she overheated? what would typically course oil to get past ether the valves or piston rings?

In other news Rui hooked me up with half of my new steering linkages so as soon as they come we can sort those out

Now lets talk oil coolers I have a cooler from a old Merc. its aluminum and would typically be mounted next to the radiator in said Merc. I would use a sandwich adopter that I bought from "Speed Shop" here in Durbs.

it is placed between the oil filter and the motor. The hose I have is hydraulic hose from tractors and so on. (can't think of the size but it is rated at ridiculous pressures and temps) I had this cooler hooked up on my bus the 1st time the motor went south. So I allele superstitious about putting it back on. Is there any way that this type of set up could cause and engine to fail in any way? Can the standard pump handle the extra distance or volume that is needed to pup through the cooler?

Also just out of curiosity when looking at the pot of an oil filter which way dose the oil flow? In through the center and out the sides or the other way?

Any site into these questions would be very helpful

Many thanks

Stew

[stew 89]

Hello friends

So some insight to the loss of power. I adjusted the velvet after we got bake to drubs and she was fine after that no reel struggle but still puffing smoke. So at the advice of Fig and others I took the bus to have the compression tested at club sport motors on Sydney Rd here in Durbs. All silencers pressurized between 170 and 190 psi (if i recall) however there was at best 80% leakage on all the cylinders. So what I have decided to do is get all new barrels and pistons and rings from Calooker. when he is back from his trip I will have a better idea of cost.

On a side note: Electronic ignition? is it worth the R2000 odd? Also is it a good Idea to completely change out the oil pump for a brand new one? do they give in after some time?

Also on my dream list are some dual 40s. basically I would like my old girl to be as reliable as Seans white high light.

All the best every one

Shot Stew

[Dawie]

First make sure about your compression pressure. 170 PSI is 1172 KPA or 11,7 Bar. Which sounds high for an engine designed with 7.3:1 compression ratio.

Also check brake fluid level. Although rare, booster might have be leaking causing brake fluid to be sucked into engine through vacuum line. But smoke would be more grey/white than blue.

How did they test leakdown? did they screw a fitting into plug's place and connect to air pressure. Made sure that piston is at start of it's power stroke. Then saw which percentage air exit through crankcase breather, and checked for leaks past inlet and exh valves?

Depends which ignition you are referring to at R2000.

[Drusky]

Got my electronic ignition doohickey from these guys for under R1000. I think it was around R680.
http://www.beachbuggy.co.za/
read: http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... t=+stealth

[stew 89]

Wow I read the 1st line of my post again and it makes No sense..... Auto correct right

Im not to sure how they did the tests I. I pretty sure that the velvet are good but when I re place the barrels I will have a look at them also they said: "doesn't seem to coming out the exhorts and inlets.
I'll check the brake fluid level. It's never a bad Idea.

As far as the Ignition: I wasn't thinking of anything in particular, just the hole concept of electronic ignition.... is it better than my vacuum advance mechanical ignition? I have read arguments for both and I just can't seem to make a call.

[Qkickslvr]

Stew looks as though autocorrect caught you out again!
Haha beware of the English teachers on here they will be after you shortly.

[Tony Z]

This topic has come up a few times already. The consensus is that you need a proper 1900 electronic ignition system, not one of the conversion modules you replace your points with.
I had varied success with the conversion kits, from 15 000 km to one that didnt even start the engine before it died. Using the right coil is vital for this conversion kit.
My old 1900 ignition setup did about 60 000 km before I retired it due to a faulty coil and no time to source spares, so I went back to stock points type. That was then, now I use Gotech.

[Tony Z]

As far as the Ignition: I wasn't thinking of anything in particular, just the hole concept of electronic ignition.... is it better than my vacuum advance mechanical ignition? I have read arguments for both and I just can't seem to make a call.

What you are looking for is a later system with mechanical advance which is dependent on the rpm of the engine and vacuum advance which is dependent on the vacuum in the inlet manifold. Both of these work together pretty well and is the best way to get good fuel consumption. Being a T4, your engine should already have this type of system.
The mechanical advance is basically what you need for full throttle operation (zero vac adv). When you take your foot off the gas, the vacuum increases and so does the engines need for more advance (to keep timing correct), this is when the vac canister advances the timing even more to get things back to where they should be.

[stew 89]

Thanks TonyZ

So then how would a mechanical advance be a good option? I guess if I had carbs that don't have a place for the vacuum to attach to i.e. Duel 40s then I would have no choice but to go with a mechanical advance. or could you just connect the vacuum tube to the manifold...

Stew looks as though autocorrect caught you out again!
Haha beware of the English teachers on here they will be after you shortly.

Bwaa waa waa velvet... And It doesn't help that I am dyslexic.