Revival of the fittest - new buggy build

Post by **Bugger** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 1:16 pm

The type 4 is a new gereration stronger than t1 wise as you want to put it that way
Sounds you are going Up right fan schroud then

For a buggy the sky is open for carb choises coz of space
Good start 36 IDF`s or any down draught carb
I got manifolds for 2x 36 DCD`s worked gr8 on a previous bug

AirPower · Post by **AirPower** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 11:13 pm

" whispering " - i'm still thinking of using electric fans.

On the carbs - yeh I've got a friend trying to source Weber IDF's.
Someone here at work suggested turning the intake manifolds 90 degrees and putting on side drafts, but I doubt that would work well.

Cheers for now

BOKKE JUST BEAT england 36 to 0.0000

YEEHAAAA

Post by **Bugger** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 11:24 pm

Some of the old offroad racers used side draughts but with std cooling

One problem on electric fans with thermal switching is the fact you still need to run a fanbelt for street use
I my opinion a waste of time coz the altie still draw power charging and it will be charging all the time when Highway croozing

Cool to stop and say you got electric cooling but no real benefit

AirPower · Post by **AirPower** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 11:18 am

Has anyone ever done tests to see what happens when you switch off the motor after a hard run down the road? Logic tells me there should be a huge buildup of heat in the whole motor because when you stop the motor there's no cooling and the heat will rise suddenly.

I think that's a good experiment to do - stick some sort of heat gauge onto one of the heads (maybe a thermal couple with display) and then run the motor for half hour and switch off. Draw a graph of the readings obtained. I'm definitely going to do that as soon as either the type 1 or type 4 motor is running.

Should be interesting.

Now if the motor had an electric fan coupled to a timer or better a thermal switch it can run until all is cool and then stop, even after the motor is switched off.

Or is that watery thinking on my part?

Mario

Post by **eben** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 11:41 am

what happens is that you might have a hard time starting it again because of fuel vapourising... never a good idea just to turn the engine off after a long run though... this counts for any engine but especially aircooleds and turbos

AirPower · Post by **AirPower** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 11:32 pm

Bugger wrote: For a buggy the sky is open for carb choises coz of space
Good start 36 IDF`s or any down draught carb
I got manifolds for 2x 36 DCD`s worked gr8 on a previous bug

Bugger - do you still have those manifolds? How much for them?
I don't know how you knew, but as you can see below I got 2 DCD's.
Do those manifolds have a common header where the carb bolts on and then split into 2? That's the only way I can see to make these webers work since the butterflies are not synchronized (think it's called progressive opening)
How about a pic?

AirPower · Post by **AirPower** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 6:32 pm

Hi people

Here's an update on what I'm working on. Front suspension taken apart, all torsion bars checked and needle pin bearings checked. new wheel bearings, brakes and brake cylinders overhauled. Steering box opened to check for wear. Purchased new brake pipes. King and link pins checked for wear or play (luckily they're all alright.)

Then gearbox inspected, cleaned and new boot rubbers put on it.

2 liter motor split open, crank was sent for balancing.

Still waiting for the pan to be returned. We're going to be away for a while - down to the coast - so work will only continue once we're back. Mean while I'll see if I can convince myself it's worth the money to buy parts from cb performance. I'm thinking of getting forged conrods and pistons as well as stainless valves and maybe do something with the standard rockers, but the MONEY! Eish!

See you guys in 2 weeks.

Mario

vader · Post by **vader** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:20 pm

Hope you going to clean everything before reassembly!!

vader · Post by **vader** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:21 pm

I think you going to waste your time and money playing with electric cooling....

Post by **Bugger** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:22 pm

The manifolds for the 36DCD`s R1000 One needs to be welded the corner broke off

Will try and take Pics when I got to my moms house

AirPower · Post by **AirPower** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 8:09 pm

Dude - if they are what I'm looking for I'll take them. The most important thing is they need to have a common header where the carb bolts on before splitting into 2.

So I'm back from holiday and in need of some rest - think I'll work on the buggy to relax. Vader - you bet - cleaned, painted and kissed before putting it all together. I just figured out the "you don't realize the power of the dark side" - while you're driving here's a song to listen to - Iron Maiden, Fear of the dark!

I'll be back with updates to the project soon.

Mario

vader · Post by **vader** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 8:19 pm

Before anyone else chips in...No one understands the power of the DarkSide....Not even me as it hasn't really driven since the last time the Boks were world champs in '98...

Post by **Bugger** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 10:38 pm

As soon as I cet around to where they are stored will take a pic for you

vader · Post by **vader** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 10:56 pm

I really like your Blue Bug, Bugger. What is it's name?

AirPower · Post by **AirPower** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:43 pm

OK - updating the project:

Received the pan back a while ago.

Rebuilding started - everything had to be checked, cleaned and replaced if worn. Did you guys know that you can actually adjust not only ride height but also toe-in and toe-out on the rear wheels? I never knew this, but thats why the rear spring plate holes are oval where they bolt onto the axle. Usually there is a mark (as in the photo) to indicate centre point.

After assembly - the chassis is ready to receive the body.

I'll put a pick up of what it looks like with the body fitted a little later.

Finally - met a very friendly guy who sold me this flywheel:

Flywheel has a 200 mm clutch dia. and fits the type 4 crankshaft. Once the fiberglass body is done and rewired I'll start with the motor.

All the best to everyone
Mario

Aircooled VW South Africa

Revival of the fittest - new buggy build

What motor is best (reliability and power)