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I have managed to progress quite far with the little red number. I have completed most of the polishing, replaced the wires on the hooter and fixed the stabilizer at the back. She is looking very shiny
A question. Someone decided to cut off the reverse light wires. It comes as two wires in a sheath from the gearbox mount switch for about 30cm and then boom...cut off. I know how to wire the lights, my question is just where to route the cables. The only hole I can see in the fire wall / bell housing engine plate is where the steel fuel pipe is supposed to run...no other holes.
Herbie wrote: Sat Apr 18, 2020 10:40 pm
A question. Someone decided to cut off the reverse light wires. It comes as two wires in a sheath from the gearbox mount switch for about 30cm and then boom...cut off. I know how to wire the lights, my question is just where to route the cables. The only hole I can see in the fire wall / bell housing engine plate is where the steel fuel pipe is supposed to run...no other holes.
Any wisdom?
Neels
Why do you need to go into the engine bay?
Run it under the flat plates either side of the engine bay and then cross over to under the fender when you are practically at the light.
Or go into the engine bay from the flat plate right where the firewall is where the rubber seal starts against the firewall (if you follow me)
@Tony Z, the one wire goes to the split between the two reverse lights and the other one to the + of the coil through an in-line fuse holder. So somehow you will have to get into the engine bay. In overseas cars (posts from the Samba) the reverse light cable goes through that flat plat you are talking about, in a grommet, situated on the right hand / starter side. No holes in the tinware there on my car. Some guys I spoke with said they recall it to be on the left hand side / coil side. So the only hole there is the one for the fuel pipe. So either it was routed elsewhere, or that is not the original tinware on my car. So I am hoping somebody saw something one day or have fiddled with the wires and knows where it’s supposed to go.
I thing you are referring to the engine tinware. I am referring to the engine bay itself - the part that stays behind after you have removed the engine...
On the sides you will see lugs for communal grounding of wires. Why not drill a hole nearby and put in a grommet and then you’ll be fine.
You could also take power off the starter main cable, run through a fuse and then to the lights via the gearbox switch. Just don’t ever leave the car standing in reverse with the engine off.
I have been working hard on the little red number. I decided to repaint the two trims around the two doors...small job...it's going to be quick and easy....yeah right. Two days later and the car is back in one piece. It was a huge amount of work for such a small difference. But now it's done. The chrome exposed trim is once again covered in a decent layer of satin black. Handles, side trim and window trim done. I have also removed the aftermarket mirrors and await lock down to finish to purchase a proper mirror.
I made some progress. Fitted new rubbers on the bonnet handle to round it off neatly...previous owner removed it and it was metal to metal. Also fitted lug nut covers and a proper VW mirror all blacked out.
Herbie wrote: Thu May 14, 2020 9:13 pm
I made some progress. Fitted new rubbers on the bonnet handle to round it off neatly...previous owner removed it and it was metal to metal. Also fitted lug nut covers and a proper VW mirror all blacked out.
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
Herbie wrote: Thu May 14, 2020 9:13 pm
I made some progress. Fitted new rubbers on the bonnet handle to round it off neatly...previous owner removed it and it was metal to metal. Also fitted lug nut covers and a proper VW mirror all blacked out.
76 SPs had black metal mirrors, 77 SPs had black plastic mirrors
For what it's worth, ignorance has no limits ......
Read an intersting article some time ago, the 14" Rostyle was too "big" for the spare wheel well and supplied deflated to fit and and a pressure canister supplied from factory. True?
For what it's worth, ignorance has no limits ......
calooker wrote:Read an intersting article some time ago, the 14" Rostyle was too "big" for the spare wheel well and supplied deflated to fit and and a pressure canister supplied from factory. True?
Yep it's true. The spare wheel well of the later cars have two little indents to allow the tyre to fit
Calooker you are right. The trend actually changed with the rest of the Beetles to the plastic mirrors. I found that out the day after I bought the mirror LOL
So I had my car's rear end up in the air over a weekend some time ago and I developed a rather weird oil leak. Oil dropped from the hole in the tunnel, just in front of the gearbox, came through every hole / joint in the tunnel and also accumulated on the front of the car under the fuel tanks...not plenty but just enough to make a mess. Turns out the bush on the nose of the gearbox, where the selector comes in, was badly worn and when jacked up, dripped oil out there. I purchased a replacement part from one of the online guys, got the worn one out quite easily but could not get the new one back in. With IMPI's wisdom I realized that the replacement part was t a good fit and IMPI machined it down just a tad. It now fits like a glove...no more oil leaks. Since I was busy, and the gear selectors were quite worn and soggy from the oil, I replaced those as well. Two small but important jobs ticked off the list.